View Single Post
05-06-2011, 12:35 AM
Registered User
hockeyman001's Avatar
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Country: United States
Posts: 139
vCash: 500
OK, a couple of things.

First, shooting. I think you are making too much of a big deal out of sticks and flex, especially at your size and I assume strength. A lot of it sounds like it could just be working on your technique. Remember as you take a wrist shot the rule "Heel to toe" this is a good beginner's trick to lift your shot. Basically as you prepare to shoot, you want to start with the puck towards the heel of your stick (where the blade meets the shaft). Then you want to pull the stick back a little bit behind you and push down to create the flex. Then as you release, use your body to lean into the shot and as you fire the shot, allow the puck to slide from the heel of your stick to the toe, and fire your wrists when it is about 2/3 of the way to the toe. Assuming you follow through correctly, you will be able to get good lift on your shots. Remember the harder you fire your wrists, the higher the shot will go. The harder you fire your arms, the straighter the shot will be (less arc). You can combine those two to create a good shot.

If you are already doing that and not getting good results, I think there are a couple of things you can look at and I don't think it's the flex. I am 6' and about 165-170 lbs. and I use a 105 flex (stick is eye height) with a custom moderate mid curve and it's fine. I can hit the top corner of the net from 10 feet and from 60 with my wrist shot. You can do fine with that flex but perhaps you just need to practice first...try an 85 flex to learn the technique and see how it goes. Now you said you're tall so I don't think you have to worry about cutting your sticks to height but if you do, the flex goes up! Because the stick is now shorter it becomes stiffer so be aware of that if you ever cut a stick. There's a formula to know how much it goes up, but I hate math so we'll skip it. You can easily work back up to 105 though I think in time.

Or perhaps it is one of the most overlooked things (by beginniners) when buying a stick: The lie. The lie is the angle the stick makes with the ground when you place the blade flat. Basically another way to say it is how far the puck is away from your body when you get ready to shoot. If the lie is not comfortable to you (puck is too far away or too close) you won't be able to get the same elevation control on your shots.

Curves also determine how your shots will go. Heel curves allow you to elevate shots in shorter distances and are also better for slap shots, but not as good for stickhandling and puck control. Toe curves are better for stickhandling but harder to lift shots and control well, and terrible for the backhand. Mid curves are good for everything. The sharper the curve the more pronounced the effect will be. But if your style is a power forward who doesn't deke a lot perhaps you could try a heel curve with an open face (Lidstrom or Drury curve). Otherwise try a mid curve (Sakic pattern) with a neutral or open face. Based on what you said I would not recommend a toe curve. Few NHL players use that one anyway. If you do a two piece stick that might be a good idea so you can sample different blades to see what you like best.

The other thing it can be too is where is your bottom hand (your shooting hand) on the stick when you release? If you are holding the stick too high with your bottom hand, you won't be able to get a good release. If you are holding too low, you won't have good control...the puck will sort of "flip" up as you shoot.

Anyway I hope this post helps you. It takes a lot of practice to perfect control of the shot.

Last edited by hockeyman001: 05-06-2011 at 12:43 AM.
hockeyman001 is offline   Reply With Quote