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02-25-2013, 08:52 AM
  #5
17of26
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
IMO the best option is to use a shaft + blade combo. That way, you can experiment with different curves, have the ability to replace a blade (or shaft) if it breaks without replacing the entire stick and even have the ability to adjust balance (which is more important than just raw weight) with the use of end plugs. Regarding curves, if you buy a wood or ABS blade and know how to do it, you could create curves yourself.

Curve, and length is completely personal preference, no argument there.
I agree with this - I am a huge fan of two piece sticks. You definitely do not need to buy a high end one piece composite for ball hockey. With the light weight of the ball, you're simply not going to need the features of a high end stick unless you just really want an extremely lightweight stick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
IMO flex isn't as relevant playing ball hockey as in ice because a ball will not offer enough resistance to warrant the stick's loading and releasing. Most of the velocity will come with the right technique coupled with the preferred curve and a stiff blade. With that reasoning, I firmly believe that kickpoint is also irrelevant.
This is true for the most part. I played Dek hockey for 15 years before starting ice hockey and I used a wide variety of wooden sticks and shaft/blade combos (including aluminum shafts).

The only time I had a problem was when I tried an intermediate 50 flex shaft (at the time, I didn't know that sticks even had a flex rating). This was the only time I ever felt a stick flex while shooting and it took quite a bit of the power out of my shots. I used it in warm-ups once and went back to my 100 flex Easton zBubble.


Last edited by 17of26: 02-25-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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