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Picking a curve

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Old
02-12-2009, 03:07 PM
  #1
87vert
 
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Picking a curve

So how do I pick a curve? Do I just keep trying different ones till I like one? or should there be something else that I am looking for? I just bought a new Warrior AK27 shaft to replace my old TPS shaft. But I want to get a decent blade for it instead of grabbing what ever was on sale

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02-12-2009, 03:34 PM
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Gunnar Stahl 30
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awesome shaft. i have it too, at 100 flex. alot of people(kids) buy the biggest curves on their blades because they want to miss the net with everyshot. i have a modest easton sakic curve. i dont know if you can try them out but that is the best thing to do.

look into the ak27 blade too..

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02-12-2009, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunnar Stahl 30 View Post
awesome shaft. i have it too, at 100 flex. alot of people(kids) buy the biggest curves on their blades because they want to miss the net with everyshot. i have a modest easton sakic curve. i dont know if you can try them out but that is the best thing to do.

look into the ak27 blade too..
Sakic is one of the biggest commercially available curves.... Iginla would be modest.

You want to look at your game and any issues shooting you may have. If you take a lot of slapshots, go for a heel curve. Wristers, go for a mid or a toe. If you get shots up no problem, get a closed or neutral curve. If you need a little help getting shots up, go for something slightly open. If you tip a lot of shots, go for something very open like a Drury. If you stickhandle, round toe. If you need to catch pucks that are careening around the boards a lot, square toe.

But if you're comfortable with what you have, find something similar.

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02-12-2009, 03:41 PM
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Gunnar Stahl 30
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what i meant by modest was its not much of a curve

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02-12-2009, 03:50 PM
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Sakic is relatively big as well as open.

If he's a beginner, he needs to go with a small pattern such as a Forsberg/Zetterberg and after learning how to shoot properly he can then adjust the pattern to fit his technique.

If he's been playing for a while, then something similar to what he's used to would probably be best, rather than just going with the pattern that works for you.

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02-12-2009, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBLfan View Post
Sakic is relatively big as well as open.

If he's a beginner, he needs to go with a small pattern such as a Forsberg/Zetterberg and after learning how to shoot properly he can then adjust the pattern to fit his technique.

If he's been playing for a while, then something similar to what he's used to would probably be best, rather than just going with the pattern that works for you.
That's what I use now. I learned how to shoot a puck on a Sakic, and used it until a few months ago. I picked up a PM9 and my shots seem much more accurate, just as hard, just as high, and both my backhand and passing is 100% better. The only difference: My stationary (Practicing) slap shots won't come up, but my one timers and dynamic (Skating while shooting) slap shots are unaffected.

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02-12-2009, 03:59 PM
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Its a pain in the arse testing out new curves, unless your loaded because the 20$ wood sticks only come in 1 or 2 curves. For starters I would try out a Lindros, its pretty much a moderate curve in the middle of the blade. Its basically the Sakic without the open face.

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02-12-2009, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBLfan View Post
Sakic is relatively big as well as open.

If he's a beginner, he needs to go with a small pattern such as a Forsberg/Zetterberg and after learning how to shoot properly he can then adjust the pattern to fit his technique.

If he's been playing for a while, then something similar to what he's used to would probably be best, rather than just going with the pattern that works for you.
you know what, it might not be a sakic, admittitley, its not my stick

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02-12-2009, 04:03 PM
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i use Nash's curve right now, it's not my favorite curve. I went from using Coffey to Nash though, so it took some getting used to. It was the cheapest one piece I could find and I actually like it (it's a TPS R2), would love it if the curve was different. I used forsberg as a beginner, it was a good beginner stick but I had the hardest time catching passes with it. I switched to Sakic and had better luck. I'm sure if I went back to Forsberg now I'd have little problem catching passes but it was difficult to learn with that curve.

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02-12-2009, 04:04 PM
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If you don't know what you want, go with a mild mid curve. Most important thing is the lie. You can grow to hate a specific blade real quick if the lie wrong.

I suggest mid curves because they are sort of a jack of all trades type curve. After a while you may find you want more puck control and switch to a toe curve, or better slap shots and switch to a heel curve. For me, give me a big ol mid curve with an open face and I am happy. The bigger the curve the happier I am.

Square toe or round toe is personal perference. I like a round toe because they seem to be a bit more durable.

BTW - Warrior blades are externally durable. Just ask the metal divider outside of the bench area.

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02-12-2009, 05:24 PM
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I started with a Forsberg, and don't think I'll ever go anywhere else. It took some learning but I figured out how to get plenty of lift with it, and my back hands seem to just work from the start.

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02-12-2009, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick9 View Post
If you don't know what you want, go with a mild mid curve. Most important thing is the lie. You can grow to hate a specific blade real quick if the lie wrong.

I suggest mid curves because they are sort of a jack of all trades type curve. After a while you may find you want more puck control and switch to a toe curve, or better slap shots and switch to a heel curve. For me, give me a big ol mid curve with an open face and I am happy. The bigger the curve the happier I am.

Square toe or round toe is personal perference. I like a round toe because they seem to be a bit more durable.

BTW - Warrior blades are externally durable. Just ask the metal divider outside of the bench area.
I'll second that. I'm a beginner too and still trying to figure out what curve I like (right now I'm using the PM9), but so far the lie seems to make the biggest difference for me.

With that said, can anyone recommend a mild mid curve in the same lie as the PM9 (or even a slightly lower lie)? Bonus points if it's also a bit more open.

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02-12-2009, 07:44 PM
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CCM Recchi is close to what you are asking for. The Warrior Robitaille is as well, and is slightly open face. You could try a Mission Rafalski or a Warrior Draper. The Draper is a decent depth curve with and open face. The face makes it look deeper than it actually is.

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02-12-2009, 07:47 PM
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Expirmenting is important, but start with something simple like everyone is saying. I recently used a friends stick with a modest heel curve thats pretty darn open and suddenly my wrist shots were 10 times better, so thats what I'll be looking to buy soon.

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02-12-2009, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick9 View Post
If you don't know what you want, go with a mild mid curve. Most important thing is the lie. You can grow to hate a specific blade real quick if the lie wrong.

I suggest mid curves because they are sort of a jack of all trades type curve. After a while you may find you want more puck control and switch to a toe curve, or better slap shots and switch to a heel curve. For me, give me a big ol mid curve with an open face and I am happy. The bigger the curve the happier I am.

Square toe or round toe is personal perference. I like a round toe because they seem to be a bit more durable.

BTW - Warrior blades are externally durable. Just ask the metal divider outside of the bench area.
How do I get the correct lie?

I've just recently started playing and am not really worried about slap shots. Currently I have a Koho PP-34 wood blade in my TPS shaft.

I cant find the specs for the curve but its seems pretty straight and has a square toe.

Should I stick with wood blades till I find a curve I like or get a mild mid curve as suggested and use that.

Anyone know the curve specs of these:

http://www.hockeymonkey.com/warrior-...lade-ak27.html


Last edited by 87vert: 02-12-2009 at 07:58 PM.
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02-12-2009, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick9 View Post
CCM Recchi is close to what you are asking for. The Warrior Robitaille is as well, and is slightly open face. You could try a Mission Rafalski or a Warrior Draper. The Draper is a decent depth curve with and open face. The face makes it look deeper than it actually is.
Thanks, maybe I'll give the Recchi a try. I'm trying to stick to wood sticks, or at least blades, so the Warriors won't work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87vert View Post
How do I get the correct lie?

I've just recently started playing and am not really worried about slap shots. Currently I have a Koho PP-34 wood blade in my TPS shaft.

I cant find the specs for the curve but its seems pretty straight and has a square toe.

Should I stick with wood blades till I find a curve I like or get a mild mid curve as suggested and use that.
Where is the tape on your stick wearing the most? If it's wearing at the heel you need a lower lie (or shorter stick). If it's wearing more at the toe you need a higher lie (or longer stick). If it's wearing pretty evenly you have the right lie.

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02-12-2009, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DevilsFan38 View Post
Thanks, maybe I'll give the Recchi a try. I'm trying to stick to wood sticks, or at least blades, so the Warriors won't work.


Where is the tape on your stick wearing the most? If it's wearing at the heel you need a lower lie (or shorter stick). If it's wearing more at the toe you need a higher lie (or longer stick). If it's wearing pretty evenly you have the right lie.
so far it seems like it is wearing pretty evenly or a bit towards the heel. But I dont know what lie the koho blade is.

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02-12-2009, 09:41 PM
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depends what type of shot. i have a Joe Thornton curve on a CCM Vector. i can shoot a wicked wrister with it. I had a Foresburg on a Easton Octane. it was alright.

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02-13-2009, 08:33 AM
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Anyone use a Datsyuk/Crosby type curve, anything a little more flat than usual?

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02-13-2009, 11:34 AM
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I would second the Forsberg/Zetterberg/Modano/PM9 for starters. Pick up a wood blade for cheap and see how you like it. Then I would try a P88 for comparison if you feel like you need more spin on the puck.

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02-13-2009, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
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so far it seems like it is wearing pretty evenly or a bit towards the heel. But I dont know what lie the koho blade is.
Sounds about right. I don't know about the lie either - maybe bring it with you when you go to buy a new stick, so you can compare?

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Old
02-13-2009, 03:19 PM
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Here is a good website to check out curves...

http://www.hockeystopohio.com/curves/curvechart.htm

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02-13-2009, 03:28 PM
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Here is a good website to check out curves...

http://www.hockeystopohio.com/curves/curvechart.htm
Hockeymonkey still has the best one.
http://www.hockeymonkey.com/blade-pattern-chart.html

Not just charts, but pictures too.

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02-13-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick9 View Post
If you don't know what you want, go with a mild mid curve. Most important thing is the lie. You can grow to hate a specific blade real quick if the lie wrong.
Good advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgflyers12 View Post
depends what type of shot. i have a Joe Thornton curve on a CCM Vector. i can shoot a wicked wrister with it. I had a Foresburg on a Easton Octane. it was alright.
Bad advice.

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Old
02-15-2009, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunnar Stahl 30 View Post
awesome shaft. i have it too, at 100 flex. alot of people(kids) buy the biggest curves on their blades because they want to miss the net with everyshot. i have a modest easton sakic curve. i dont know if you can try them out but that is the best thing to do.

look into the ak27 blade too..
i had both, the ak27 shaft with an ak27 blade (federov) took me three games to smash the shaft. i bought another shaft and then smashed the heel of the blade on the next game. after that i bought a tps pro stock stick and haven't broken that in two seasons. guess it just matters how you treat your stick.

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