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Tips getting blade out of shaft

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Old
06-10-2009, 10:00 PM
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Tips getting blade out of shaft

I got another Dolomite as a gift, but I broke it. The blade broke right where the hosel goes into the shaft, so there's pretty much the hosel inside the shaft that I can't get out.

What are ways? I tried heating it up, putting in a weight and using force to try and knock it out.. no luck. It isn't like my other dolomite where I just heated it, pulled and eventually it came out. I just want to find a new tapered blade and put that in, but so far no luck as I got all this gunk and **** to take out.

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06-10-2009, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
I got another Dolomite as a gift, but I broke it. The blade broke right where the hosel goes into the shaft, so there's pretty much the hosel inside the shaft that I can't get out.

What are ways? I tried heating it up, putting in a weight and using force to try and knock it out.. no luck. It isn't like my other dolomite where I just heated it, pulled and eventually it came out. I just want to find a new tapered blade and put that in, but so far no luck as I got all this gunk and **** to take out.
Ok, place the shaft in a clamp and use a paddle bit to chew out the main portion of the shaft. The go to a smaller bit and hit areas where the paddle bit would chew up. Then take a screw driver and hammer (not a chisel) and break up the smaller areas that you drilled. Then it should just fall apart as you move the wood towards the center of the shaft.

Good luck

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06-10-2009, 10:47 PM
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Thanks HC I will definitely use this method tomorrow and take the time to get it out. Thanks again.

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06-10-2009, 10:59 PM
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You could always try to use something long enough...perhaps a piece of rebar to knock it out.

-Heat-up the area where the blade/glue is
-Insert the piece of rebar in the shaft
-Hold the shaft like this:



...and strike it down on a hard surface. The force should knock the remnants of the blade out.

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Old
06-10-2009, 11:22 PM
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I'd try putting a long screw into the hosel, then heating up the shaft and pull on the screw with a pair of pliers.

Or, y'know, AHF's method. The simpler, the better.

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06-10-2009, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by densetsu View Post
I'd try putting a long screw into the hosel, then heating up the shaft and pull on the screw with a pair of pliers.

Or, y'know, AHF's method. The simpler, the better.
The thing is, it isn't exactly a wooden block. It's carbon fiber all up and in there lol. I wish it was a wooden block.

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06-10-2009, 11:46 PM
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http://hfboards.com/showthread.php?t=633437

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Old
06-10-2009, 11:52 PM
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Hockeyfan68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
The thing is, it isn't exactly a wooden block. It's carbon fiber all up and in there lol. I wish it was a wooden block.
Do you have anything at all that could work like the rebar thing mentioned above? A long stick that could catch the lip of the hosel piece inside going from the buttend downward inside the shaft?

There must be something you could hook onto the lip inside from the end that broke too possibly right? How about a hook end from a handheld lace tightener? Am I picturing this wrong?

I am assuming your situation is the same as a 2 piece composite with a broken blade but broken where the hosel is right?

I'm trying to picture your description and cannot.

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06-10-2009, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyfan68 View Post
Do you have anything at all that could work like the rebar thing mentioned above? A long stick that could catch the lip of the hosel piece inside going from the buttend downward inside the shaft?

There must be something you could hook onto the lip inside from the end that broke too possibly right? How about a hook end from a handheld lace tightener? Am I picturing this wrong?

I am assuming your situation is the same as a 2 piece composite with a broken blade but broken where the hosel is right?

I'm trying to picture your description and cannot.
It's pretty much what you're saying. Some hard thing along the inside of the shaft, with a crap load of carbon fibers all frayed out the end. I think that if I had something to push on it, like rebar, it would work. I'll look for something tomorrow.

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06-11-2009, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
It's pretty much what you're saying. Some hard thing along the inside of the shaft, with a crap load of carbon fibers all frayed out the end. I think that if I had something to push on it, like rebar, it would work. I'll look for something tomorrow.
Oh well okay then, that should work.

I've never owned a one piece stick even though they are really two piece unless it is truly a one piece yadda yadda yadda.

I wasn't sure if they put them together a little different and there were no edges to grab with a hook or rebar etc.

I was mentioning it to learn something about them which someday i am sure i will have to put that to use for a stick i break sometime. I probably will try out the one piece system at some point.

... so thanks for the info

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06-11-2009, 10:06 PM
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I have a dolomite ops that was cut at the fuse point. I use heat, a short rebar and a hammer to knock what was left of the tenon back into the shaft. Since it's tapered, the tenon came loose and fell down the shaft, coming out at the buttend.

I tried the same thing with a Vapor XX, didn't work. I had to use heat and chisel out the tenon.

good luck.

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Old
06-12-2009, 08:42 AM
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It took me 4 hours. 4 ****ing hours.

Then my tapered blade wasn't fitting. So I had to shave it down perfectly.

Then there was no glue. So now I gotta make a run out for glue to finish my stick for the game. Lovely. LOL

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06-12-2009, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
It took me 4 hours. 4 ****ing hours.

Then my tapered blade wasn't fitting. So I had to shave it down perfectly.

Then there was no glue. So now I gotta make a run out for glue to finish my stick for the game. Lovely. LOL
I'm glad you got it out! These things can be a pain in the keester. I hope your 4 hours put into gets you a goal in your next game with it.

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06-12-2009, 03:40 PM
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I just finished making my nice toe curve, and shaved the blade down perfectly so it's nice and light.

Without putting glue on it, it already feels lighter and more balanced than original Dolomite will, and it's a wooden blade.

I'm pretty stoked to see how it performs. The toe curve I have on this is very sexy, too. It's still within legal range I think, maybe a bit outside of legal, but it's slightly open.

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06-12-2009, 03:46 PM
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Can you give us a pic?

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06-12-2009, 03:55 PM
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Sure thing. Give me a second to get my camera.

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06-12-2009, 04:01 PM
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I like it. Kind of like the Saprykin curve. It took awhile to make and to smooth out the blade face, but I like the results.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg toe-curve2.jpg‎ (452.7 KB, 30 views)

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06-12-2009, 10:32 PM
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This is the perfect stick to salvage. The Dolomite OPS is literally a Dolomite blade and a Dolomite shaft fused together and concealed. The wrap it after the fuse so you can't see the fuse point, and they use a different glue: The glue melts at a higher temp.

So, for future reference, the trick to Dolo's is find the fusion point, put the junk side (Blade or Shaft) firmly in a vise, and heat heat heat (Lots of ****ing heat). It will slide out.

BTW: Saprykin FTW.

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06-12-2009, 10:50 PM
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you are learning, young padawan. lol

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06-13-2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
I like it. Kind of like the Saprykin curve. It took awhile to make and to smooth out the blade face, but I like the results.
And you think this thing is legal?

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Old
06-13-2009, 12:52 PM
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Hockeyfan68
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And you think this thing is legal?
I know right lmao.

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06-13-2009, 12:57 PM
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Heat McManus
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And you think this thing is legal?
show me a men's league that checks for legal curves.

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Old
06-14-2009, 10:20 PM
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It isn't legal. But what I did do is open it a bit more and take a bit of the curve off. It's nearly legal now. I like the results though. Better than the last curve. I just wish the blade was stiffer.

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Old
06-16-2009, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HURAKAN View Post
It isn't legal. But what I did do is open it a bit more and take a bit of the curve off. It's nearly legal now. I like the results though. Better than the last curve. I just wish the blade was stiffer.
Who cares if it's legal. I use a Saprykin which isn't legal, my Malkin is about a foot over the length requirement, and that doesn't include my custom woody which I can fit a quarter under, with room.

Just to elaborate on my previous post, and for anyone salvaging a Dolomite shaft:

Flex, and smack the stick firmly on the ground to reveal the end of the shaft/beginning of the blade (Thanks Vakar). Heat the **** out of the shaft from the end of it, to about 3" up the shaft (Where the hosel and epoxy would be). Use a heat gun, on the highest setting, and spend a good five minutes on the heating, you shouldn't be able to touch the shaft for more than a second or so. Put the blade in a vise, as close as possible to, but not touching the shaft (Figure around .25" before the shaft). Crank the vise on the blade, really squeeze it. Move the shaft around, grabbing as low as possible on it, but not too much to crack it, give it a good tug and be happy with your good as new Dolomite shaft.

That's the exact process I used at the shop on Sunday.

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Old
06-16-2009, 10:52 AM
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Well, that experiment didn't work out too well. Broke last night on a 1 timer. Lovely haha.

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