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New Hockey Stick?

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Old
06-14-2009, 01:17 AM
  #51
XxLidstromxX
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So all in all, which curve would be the best for me??? Drury, Lidstrom or Gagne?

Actually how are the Zetterberg and Iginla curves


Last edited by XxLidstromxX: 06-14-2009 at 01:31 AM.
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06-14-2009, 01:53 AM
  #52
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Zetterberg is the renamed Forsberg, and if I'm not mistaken it's similar to the Bauer PM9.

And Iginla is a mid curve.

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06-14-2009, 01:57 AM
  #53
XxLidstromxX
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So which curve should be better? The Forsberg/Zetterberg or Iginla for passing, wrist shots, and good slappers?

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06-14-2009, 02:28 AM
  #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxLidstromxX View Post
So which curve should be better? The Forsberg/Zetterberg or Iginla for passing, wrist shots, and good slappers?
My goodness, it's the player, not the curve. I have trouble keeping shots down, so I prefer a Forsberg. I really must say, only beginners and pros benefit from ridiculous curves. And it only acts as a crutch for beginners!

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06-14-2009, 02:55 AM
  #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxLidstromxX View Post
So which curve should be better? The Forsberg/Zetterberg or Iginla for passing, wrist shots, and good slappers?
If you want some of everything, just go with the Iginla. It's a plain mid curve that's closed and not too deep. It's really the curve for people who don't specialize too much.

At the very least, it'll be usable for anybody.

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06-14-2009, 03:04 AM
  #56
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Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post
If you want some of everything, just go with the Iginla. It's a plain mid curve that's closed and not too deep. It's really the curve for people who don't specialize too much.

At the very least, it'll be usable for anybody.
its a short blade though, i have one on a stealth, its weird if you arent used to it

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06-14-2009, 03:37 AM
  #57
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I might just buy the Forsberg stick, or i might buy both... I can get 2 S17's for $250, 1 for $125... Pretty sweet deal if you ask me!!!

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06-14-2009, 03:55 AM
  #58
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Originally Posted by XxLidstromxX View Post
I might just buy the Forsberg stick, or i might buy both... I can get 2 S17's for $250, 1 for $125... Pretty sweet deal if you ask me!!!
I like the s17 but you can get a one95 on ebay for around $150-160, which is a way better deal. More durable, better all around. I also think the 10k is better too.

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06-14-2009, 04:05 AM
  #59
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I'm about 6'2 over 200. I'm really strong. Should I get a flex thats lower in the 80's or should i get like in the 100, I have been using eastons for last 3 years. All of them in the 100 flex zone, and they always seem to break. What kind of really expensive stick would you people recommend? And please tell me what a "lie" means. I never understand when it says the "lie" on a stick. Please give me some feedback. Thanks

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06-14-2009, 05:13 AM
  #60
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Originally Posted by MK7117 View Post
I'm about 6'2 over 200. I'm really strong. Should I get a flex thats lower in the 80's or should i get like in the 100, I have been using eastons for last 3 years. All of them in the 100 flex zone, and they always seem to break. What kind of really expensive stick would you people recommend? And please tell me what a "lie" means. I never understand when it says the "lie" on a stick. Please give me some feedback. Thanks
Are you snapping them in two on slappers/faceoffs etc or are they just randomly breaking? If it's the first, you might need a 110 or so flex. Lie just refers to the angle at which the blade extends from the shaft. Lower lie looks more like an L, better if you care the puck out farther in front of you.

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06-14-2009, 03:01 PM
  #61
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Originally Posted by MistaWrista View Post
Are you snapping them in two on slappers/faceoffs etc or are they just randomly breaking? If it's the first, you might need a 110 or so flex. Lie just refers to the angle at which the blade extends from the shaft. Lower lie looks more like an L, better if you care the puck out farther in front of you.
It's usually the blade. I barley take slap shots now cause my blade always breaks. I'm too scared to let one timers rip cause of fear that it will break then there goes another stick.

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06-14-2009, 03:19 PM
  #62
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Originally Posted by MK7117 View Post
It's usually the blade. I barley take slap shots now cause my blade always breaks. I'm too scared to let one timers rip cause of fear that it will break then there goes another stick.
Sorry to say, but that sounds like bad technique. Perhaps make sure you are doing everything right?

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06-14-2009, 03:30 PM
  #63
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Originally Posted by MistaWrista View Post
Sorry to say, but that sounds like bad technique. Perhaps make sure you are doing everything right?
I know how to take good slap shots, maybe your right and it is my technique. Who knows. Thanks for the help.

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06-14-2009, 08:10 PM
  #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MK7117 View Post
It's usually the blade. I barley take slap shots now cause my blade always breaks. I'm too scared to let one timers rip cause of fear that it will break then there goes another stick.
I shoot slapshots wicked hard and rarely if ever break blades. I swear by the fact that when one has good mechanics sticks won't break as often.

I play a lot and often go out to outdoor ice rinks and bring my goal cage to shoot at when there are not enough people to play a game and have yet to break a composite blade that way and I am talking 50 to 60 slapshots a sessions when practicing shooting among other shots too.

I broke one blade this year on a one timer I caught too much of the toe on and cracked the blade, it was also a flutter puck wobbler type deal.

I think you are breaking your blades like a baseball player breaks bats by hitting the ball too far at the end of the bat. Maybe you are hitting the puck in the wrong place on the blade.

My puck marks are between the middle and the heel of the blade, where are yours when you look at your tape wear?

Oh by the way your lie depends on how long your stick is and how your skating style is. If you are hunched over closer to the ice or are a more upright skater. the dude above explained what a lie was so read that too.

Your flex should be half of your body weight but that varies on what style you are of a player. A more finesses player who dishes saucer passes more and likes to take wristshots and be a fancy Dan fiddle diddler may want a lower flex whilce a pile driver slapshot machine or Dman may want a stiffer flex.

I am 235 and try to use 110+ if i can find them on the shelves. The bauer Supreme seems to be available at most stores in the pro flex which is up over 100 and also comes in a longer stick length than many other stock sticks. i am about 6 ft 4 inches and would actually have to cut some off the end which increases the flex by the way.

If you bought an 87 flex stick and cut about 2 to 4 inches off of it you would end up with a 100 flex if that would not be too short of a stick for you that is.


Last edited by Hockeyfan68: 06-14-2009 at 08:17 PM.
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06-14-2009, 10:55 PM
  #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyfan68 View Post
I shoot slapshots wicked hard and rarely if ever break blades. I swear by the fact that when one has good mechanics sticks won't break as often.

I play a lot and often go out to outdoor ice rinks and bring my goal cage to shoot at when there are not enough people to play a game and have yet to break a composite blade that way and I am talking 50 to 60 slapshots a sessions when practicing shooting among other shots too.

I broke one blade this year on a one timer I caught too much of the toe on and cracked the blade, it was also a flutter puck wobbler type deal.

I think you are breaking your blades like a baseball player breaks bats by hitting the ball too far at the end of the bat. Maybe you are hitting the puck in the wrong place on the blade.

My puck marks are between the middle and the heel of the blade, where are yours when you look at your tape wear?

Oh by the way your lie depends on how long your stick is and how your skating style is. If you are hunched over closer to the ice or are a more upright skater. the dude above explained what a lie was so read that too.

Your flex should be half of your body weight but that varies on what style you are of a player. A more finesses player who dishes saucer passes more and likes to take wristshots and be a fancy Dan fiddle diddler may want a lower flex whilce a pile driver slapshot machine or Dman may want a stiffer flex.

I am 235 and try to use 110+ if i can find them on the shelves. The bauer Supreme seems to be available at most stores in the pro flex which is up over 100 and also comes in a longer stick length than many other stock sticks. i am about 6 ft 4 inches and would actually have to cut some off the end which increases the flex by the way.

If you bought an 87 flex stick and cut about 2 to 4 inches off of it you would end up with a 100 flex if that would not be too short of a stick for you that is.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll definitely consider what you said.

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06-15-2009, 10:46 AM
  #66
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Hockeyfan68 is pretty much right on the money. I'm more of a dangler personally, but I have a pretty good shot, to the point of people asking me in shinny to teach them almost every week. It is ALL mechanics, and has very little to do with the stick/blade. To the point when someone asks me to show them, and they can't do it right away(obviously, it takes practice), they blame their stick. They see me with a 300$ custom pro job, and figure it's my stick. To which point I grab their 25 dollar sherwood and rip it top shelf. Blades make a difference for wristers in tight, but any blade you can snap any shot, from anywhere. It just takes practice and getting used to the blade.
Really good players who are in a slump tend to get a new blade to try to break it(guilty, I had a pretty bad drought so I bought three new sticks with three different blades). In the beginning, you sail alot of shots high, or wide, it takes a few days to get used to it. But once you do, kablammo, if you have the right technique. Picking up a stick and seeing an immediate improvement on a slapper because of the blade, I think is impossible, sounds like a fluke shot to me. Practice the fundamentals, and you can roofjob a puck from anywhere, with anything.
As for blades, I have the old drury for ball hockey, for the hail mary passes, but i never use it for ice hockey, my shots go about 17 feet too high, it's pretty crazy. I currently use the old Forsberg, a pro stock Pitkanen(which isnt too crazy, just a small mid lie), and a crazy rathje for shootouts in shinny(so i can lacrosse move with it, it's almost straight). As for flex, I use a 110, i'm about 190, 6'2, and I have no problem loading it at forward. Flex is important, if it's too high, its useless, if its too low, it'll break.
Hope that helped, feel free to ask any other questions you might have

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Old
06-15-2009, 12:44 PM
  #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuitarAwesome View Post
Hockeyfan68 is pretty much right on the money. I'm more of a dangler personally, but I have a pretty good shot, to the point of people asking me in shinny to teach them almost every week. It is ALL mechanics, and has very little to do with the stick/blade. To the point when someone asks me to show them, and they can't do it right away(obviously, it takes practice), they blame their stick. They see me with a 300$ custom pro job, and figure it's my stick. To which point I grab their 25 dollar sherwood and rip it top shelf. Blades make a difference for wristers in tight, but any blade you can snap any shot, from anywhere. It just takes practice and getting used to the blade.
Really good players who are in a slump tend to get a new blade to try to break it(guilty, I had a pretty bad drought so I bought three new sticks with three different blades). In the beginning, you sail alot of shots high, or wide, it takes a few days to get used to it. But once you do, kablammo, if you have the right technique. Picking up a stick and seeing an immediate improvement on a slapper because of the blade, I think is impossible, sounds like a fluke shot to me. Practice the fundamentals, and you can roofjob a puck from anywhere, with anything.
As for blades, I have the old drury for ball hockey, for the hail mary passes, but i never use it for ice hockey, my shots go about 17 feet too high, it's pretty crazy. I currently use the old Forsberg, a pro stock Pitkanen(which isnt too crazy, just a small mid lie), and a crazy rathje for shootouts in shinny(so i can lacrosse move with it, it's almost straight). As for flex, I use a 110, i'm about 190, 6'2, and I have no problem loading it at forward. Flex is important, if it's too high, its useless, if its too low, it'll break.
Hope that helped, feel free to ask any other questions you might have


Gotta agree. I'm pretty sure I said all of this in my other posts, including the mention of the Drury curve shooting way high. I never try to change my curve to break out of a slump though; I'm so comfortable with my curve that I've gotten to the point where I will go to the bench and drop off my Naslund One95 87 flex and pick up... a different Naslund One95 87 flex. I'll blame a slump on my stick, but I don't change anything - I just chalk it up to that stick having some bad mojo that day or that week. I stick to the same curve, flex and model no matter what; I've found what works for me. It is all technique though. My younger brother came out to open hockey with me the other day and he's got a wood Montreal and wanted to use my stick because "it's so much better, dude". I played with his Montreal for about an hour and outside of not having the same polish on my shots that I have with the stick I'm used to, I was just as comfortable going high, low, passing, dekeing and everything else.

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Old
06-17-2009, 12:37 AM
  #68
Hockeyfan68
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Hey XxLidstromxX ... just curious, you mentioned you were a younger player and I was wondering since you mentioned that you break a lot of blades to the point of fearing shooting a slapshot and wanted to know what flex you are buying your sticks at and more importantly how much length you cut off of each one after you buy it?

This is important because I was just watching a stick review where the guy reviewing it works or owns a sporting goods store and mentioned younger or smaller players buying a stick at a flex they think they use and cutting too much length off which increases the flex of the stick dramatically and also creates a bad kickpoint causing blades to break easily.

I was just wondering what your setup was if you haven't mentioned it already someplace.

EDIT maybe it wasn't you who was breaking a lot of blades with a slapshot. I can't find the post now. Anyhew if this question doesn't apply to you just ignnore it.


Last edited by Hockeyfan68: 06-17-2009 at 12:44 AM.
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06-17-2009, 12:55 AM
  #69
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It's usually the blade. I barley take slap shots now cause my blade always breaks. I'm too scared to let one timers rip cause of fear that it will break then there goes another stick.
Was this guy^

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06-18-2009, 12:32 AM
  #70
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Was this guy^
I knew i wasn't crazy ... but yeah then i am asking THAT guy instead

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