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Custom Curves

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Old
07-16-2009, 03:51 PM
  #1
Bammers
 
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Custom Curves

With the thread about different curves, it got me thinking and I remembered reading about people custom curving retail wood and composite blades. Anybody have any experience with curving your own sticks? I've heard that a few companies are even getting on board with this (or have already gotten on); all you have to do is send in a template and they clone it X times and you get a deal on them.

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07-16-2009, 04:10 PM
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Hockeyfan68
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Sherwood will clone a blade you send them, my friend who owns a proshop does it. It is a wood blade .... I am not sure if they do composite ones. Someone in here more knowledgable than I about that may know more.

But wood .... yep they sure do. It is a great idea and I've actually thought about doing it. The trouble is I love composite blades a lot more than wood now.

In the past I would recurve my stick blades easily the old fashioned way ... heat up the blade and bend it in the crack of a door where the hinges are or putting it in the corner of a room baseboard and pushing downward putting pressure on the toe if you wanted a little more open face.

if you got the face too open you could then lie the blade face down on the floor and step on the back of the blade with slight pressure.

A friend of mine used to use one of these ...

http://www.procurve.ca/ I would recommend getting one if you use wood and are recurving your blades. This saves time and gets it right everytime the way you like it.

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07-16-2009, 04:13 PM
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Gunnar Stahl 30
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i wouldnt reccomend it with a composite blade. that will weaken it significantly

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07-17-2009, 12:01 AM
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bleedgreen
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one thing you can do with a composite is shape the toe, as in if you want to make a square toe into a round one. take a belt sander to it, different blades allow to go to different depths before you get to part of the blade that shouldnt worn down, though i dont know if such a part really exists. then i take a dremel tool and grind the sides down till theyre smooth. if you do it right its no different than the edges it comes with. ive never done it to a warrior blade, but i have done it to easton and reebok blades. i dont know if it would work with a warrior one, based on the way the toe of one started chipping off on one i had.

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07-17-2009, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
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one thing you can do with a composite is shape the toe, as in if you want to make a square toe into a round one. take a belt sander to it, different blades allow to go to different depths before you get to part of the blade that shouldnt worn down, though i dont know if such a part really exists. then i take a dremel tool and grind the sides down till theyre smooth. if you do it right its no different than the edges it comes with. ive never done it to a warrior blade, but i have done it to easton and reebok blades. i dont know if it would work with a warrior one, based on the way the toe of one started chipping off on one i had.
Doing any cutting down or work on an easton blade, at least a nicer one, is a very bad idea. They have a reputation for being fragile for good reason- the inside of the blades are basically foam and an air bladder, and the composite shell around it is quite thin. They'll hold up if you use them properly, But if you screw around with them they'll die fast.

Basically, unless you're a pro who doesn't have to pay for composite sticks and blades, don't try to mod them. It can be done, but it's very tricky and will weaken your blade or destroy it if done wrong.

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07-17-2009, 05:27 PM
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bleedgreen
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im no pro and ive done it on multiple easton focus flex blades, with no structural issues whatsoever, and the edges are just as smooth as any of the others.

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07-19-2009, 02:23 PM
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christian will do a custom wood blade, ballistik will do custom OPS and blades. a custom composite from any manufacturer is going to be expensive.

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08-26-2009, 06:03 AM
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I know this is old but i always put a bit more bend on my comps. No more then an 1/8 but i have never had a problem. Heat with a b-torch and away you go. Dont heat too much and keep the flame a good 4ish inches on the blade.

*disclaimer* i have also been heating blades for like 20ish years, was taught when i was really young. Not saying im a "pro" but im sure it would be trickier if you have never done it. Practice on a woodie.

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08-26-2009, 06:13 AM
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Speaking of curves, how come the crazy toe curves lots of pro's use aren't available to the public? Save for pro-stock sticks, of course. Just curious on the reasoning behind not letting joe schmoe use a curve like that.

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08-26-2009, 06:32 AM
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Speaking of curves, how come the crazy toe curves lots of pro's use aren't available to the public? Save for pro-stock sticks, of course. Just curious on the reasoning behind not letting joe schmoe use a curve like that.
Hespelers, Synergy Grip, RBK 10k?, Warrior

Bauer has mid-toes.

Thats all i can think of, maybe Montreal too.

Replacement blades i believe Mission and Warrior both have toes for wood and comp.

I could be wrong, its been quite a while since i looked at toes.

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08-26-2009, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bammers View Post
With the thread about different curves, it got me thinking and I remembered reading about people custom curving retail wood and composite blades. Anybody have any experience with curving your own sticks? I've heard that a few companies are even getting on board with this (or have already gotten on); all you have to do is send in a template and they clone it X times and you get a deal on them.

Any solid door in your house and a Blow Torch are the only 2 items you will need!

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08-26-2009, 10:59 AM
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You're looking at about 2 months for SWD.

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08-26-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaBacon View Post
Hespelers, Synergy Grip, RBK 10k?, Warrior

Bauer has mid-toes.

Thats all i can think of, maybe Montreal too.

Replacement blades i believe Mission and Warrior both have toes for wood and comp.

I could be wrong, its been quite a while since i looked at toes.
The only toes available these days are curves through the bauer ID program. Warrior used to have one, but they stopped making it last year.

There are rumors that Easton is bringing one back next year though, so be on the watch for that.

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08-30-2009, 12:44 PM
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its possible to get anything done with any curve you want.

in the last year i can recall where we have gotten kids custom 10ks (must buy in quantity of 12, though), one95s (quantity 6 iirc), dolomites (no minimum) rm19s (no minimum) and easton s17s (quantity 6 iirc).

pretty much what you got to do is if you want a custom custom blade make it yourself on a wood blade, or ask if they have a certain blade patern in stock (either a retail odd-ball like vanek curve, or a pro-player's one like Mirsolav Satan's curve). They'll create a profile with you so that if you want more than all you have to do is call up with that patern and ask to make more of them.

It's really sweet, but takes like 2-3 weeks if they aren't busy to get the sticks in. Price is alot cheaper, too. The problem is, for the GP, you'll need to be either working at a shop, or be best friends with the owner or something to get a stick for cheap. They'd probably still sell it out for what their cost of a normal stick would be. (using s17 as example). Cost is 155 for off-shelf stick. Retail runs about 220. For Pro-stock s17s, the cost is anywhere from 80-120 per stick. If I were a shop owner I'd quote someone on buying s17 pro-stocks at 160 per stick. However if you are "in" with the shop people then you'd get it for like 20 bucks over cost (to cover shipping charges).

If you're looking for custom blades, they again all make 'em. I'd go with Harrow or Sher-wood though in terms of response time and quality. Hope this helps ya'll.

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