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Your favorite stick?

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Old
01-12-2011, 03:15 PM
  #126
JRZ DVLS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahabian View Post
I've been looking to get this. It's on sale at the moment, so I could actually afford it. How sturdy is the blade? Generally, the stick feels super soft (too soft?).
Where is it on Sale?

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Old
01-12-2011, 04:07 PM
  #127
jorbjorb
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kind love my patty kate x20 bauer 75 flex

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01-12-2011, 10:51 PM
  #128
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As far as I'm concerned the TotalOne was carved by Michelangelo.

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Old
01-13-2011, 08:00 AM
  #129
coz21
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I've really gotten into the Pro Stock sticks. Right now I'm using the Warrior Dolomite PS with a Kovalev curve. The main problem for me is finding RH sticks since most of the Pro Stock's on clearance are LH

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01-13-2011, 11:24 AM
  #130
Dump and Chase
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TPS Response R8 Lite
Pattern 061 Nash
95 Flex


435 grams of pure heaven.



I love it so much I will write a mini review.


I bought one of these in an SE (special edition) at the start of the season when my pro-stock Reebok 10K gave up the ghost. The entire shaft is chrome with black nomenclature. It had a list price of $290C and was on sale for $130 which was the same as the pro-stock sticks they had available. I had always used Louisville sticks in the past and I loved the weight, feel and the curve so I decided to give it a go.


The stick has seen alot of hockey this year (at least 4 skates a week) and has held up admirably. The crazy lightness helps on face offs and quick releases, the blade maintains its integrity on one-timers and it has not gotten the least bit punky after lots of use.


At Christmas my dad bought me a new twig and gave me the receipt in case I wanted to exchange it. I went back to the store and found the sale prices torn off all of the TPS R8 SE's. I took one to the counter and asked how much and was told $79. I returned my gift stick and bought two R8 SE's.


I figured I might as well start using them while under warranty and the first one broke on the first shift of my first game. I called Sherwood (who now owns the TPS brand) and asked how I should go about the warranty exchange. The customer service guy told me that they no longer ask you to return sticks and that the Special Edition is no longer in production so I would get a newer model. I took a picture of the stick, a picture of the break, a picture of the serial and a picture of the receipt and emailed them to the guy 5 minutes later. The next day it was approved and 2 days later my new stick arrived via CanPar. I have not used this one yet.


I have used the second stick I bought at Christmas 10 times and it is working just as well as the original.


Great stick, great customer service and I got a great price. Hockey Monkey sells these SE for $179US, they sell the replacement stick (2011 model R8 lite) they sent me for $209US


Love it!

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Old
01-13-2011, 11:43 AM
  #131
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A note on the X:60, I've been using it heavily for 8 months now and it's still in great shape. Kick is still good, the blade is perfect, and there's only minor chipping on the shaft. I'm a small guy so I don't put a ton of pressure on it, but so far it has held up better than the One95.

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Old
01-14-2011, 07:06 AM
  #132
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Since I started playing on ice a few years ago I'd always use botton of the line used Easton Synergies that my teammates didn't want anymore. Then last year I bought the Bauer one95. Snap shots are so sweet and I actually have a decent slap shot now. Nice stick.

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Old
01-17-2011, 10:35 AM
  #133
JRZ DVLS
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I decided to buy a couple of those BlueIce hockey sticks to see what they are about. Will update likely next week since it will be here after my next game.

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Old
01-17-2011, 01:17 PM
  #134
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Grabbed a 10k 75 flex on clearance a few days back. Pretty stiff for me after cutting 4" off it, but it already broke in a little bit so it's tolerable. Super light weight. Unfortunately, 10 minutes into my first game with it, the blade got caught in the zamboni door and cracked, which isn't covered by warranty.

Not a huge deal though as the blade was too closed for my tastes, so I'll probably keep it as a backup until the rest of the blade goes soft, then chop the blade and put a different one in.

Think I'm going to see if I can find a 75 flex 8k shaft on clearance too.

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Old
01-17-2011, 02:01 PM
  #135
The Tikkanen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil Dancer View Post
A note on the X:60, I've been using it heavily for 8 months now and it's still in great shape. Kick is still good, the blade is perfect, and there's only minor chipping on the shaft. I'm a small guy so I don't put a ton of pressure on it, but so far it has held up better than the One95.
I've had the same experience. My X60 is still going strong. Decided to buy an EQ50 and it's my backup now to the X60, didn't like it as much. I want to try the 52 Caliber stick next.

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Old
01-17-2011, 02:18 PM
  #136
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I had been using 52 Cal two piece setups, and just upgraded to the x:60 way better puck feel, and much lighter!

The 52 cal is a nice enough stick, but I think I'll be buying x:60's in the future!

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Old
01-17-2011, 05:50 PM
  #137
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Saw those 52 cal's the other day, they felt nice and light. 45's felt pretty decent too if they came in an 80 flex.

So I picked up the 8k 75 flex shaft. Interesting enough, when I cut it to length, it ended up being a bit whippier both in the listed and perceived flex. I figured I would have to cut two more inches off the shaft to get the right length because the 10k 75 flex stick was 2" shorter than regular, but that wasn't the case.

Another interesting thing is that there's a little stopper in the bottom of the shaft, so I had to cut 1/2" off the TENON of one of my Harrow blades. But otherwise it's a perfect fit, no tape needed.

The 8k/Harrow two piece is blade heavy, not unusable, but that's to be expected. It's overall heavier than the 10k OPS of course. It feels a little whippier and both are true to listed flex (8k cut to 78 while the 10k is cut to 81). The 10k had really thin shaft walls while the 8k is a normal thickness. Grip feels about the same, and both look pretty nice.

I'm looking forward to trying the 8k out...I'd need a lighter blade to balance it out but I think the slightly whippier shaft and my preferred curve (Drury) will be great. I missed a couple goals last game because I couldn't get the puck up quick enough; I like to come out from either behind the net or from the corner and quickly spin around and put it top shelf on the goalie from about the top of the crease, and I hit his glove and shoulder on separate tries.

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Old
01-17-2011, 09:35 PM
  #138
Gert B Frobe
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I have no idea what any of you are talking about because I'm kind of old...

Branches sticks were awesome. Those things never broke and they were like $14. They stopped making hockey sticks and just make canoe paddles and oars and stuff now.

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Old
01-17-2011, 11:36 PM
  #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gert B Frobe View Post
I have no idea what any of you are talking about because I'm kind of old...

Branches sticks were awesome. Those things never broke and they were like $14. They stopped making hockey sticks and just make canoe paddles and oars and stuff now.
Sick avatar and title, haha.

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Old
01-17-2011, 11:46 PM
  #140
Copeland
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This may be a stupid question, but... Can you get Sherwood 5030 woodies in a flex lower than 87??? I've only seen 87s and to cut those babies down for my 5'4 height would make the flex go through the roof...

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Old
01-18-2011, 12:07 AM
  #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copeland View Post
This may be a stupid question, but... Can you get Sherwood 5030 woodies in a flex lower than 87??? I've only seen 87s and to cut those babies down for my 5'4 height would make the flex go through the roof...
Grab an INT 5030 - it's 70 flex.

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Old
01-18-2011, 12:18 AM
  #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
Another interesting thing is that there's a little stopper in the bottom of the shaft, so I had to cut 1/2" off the TENON of one of my Harrow blades. But otherwise it's a perfect fit, no tape needed.
I have two 8k shafts, the little stopper is just a very thin wall of carbonite that can easily be removed with a small chisel. Might be better than cutting the tenon.

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Old
01-18-2011, 12:46 AM
  #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blokeyhighlander View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Copeland View Post
This may be a stupid question, but... Can you get Sherwood 5030 woodies in a flex lower than 87??? I've only seen 87s and to cut those babies down for my 5'4 height would make the flex go through the roof...
Grab an INT 5030 - it's 70 flex.
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).

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01-18-2011, 12:58 AM
  #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).
I don't know a whole lot about the feel of sticks as I played inline when I was little but now that I just got into ice as an adult the intermediate 5030 is the only stick I've used. It doesn't feel very solid against the puck - I might have to investigate intermediate composites at some point. The heel on my 5030 is getting chewed up on the ice and it's only seen a couple games action. The lie probably isn't right for me.

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01-18-2011, 01:04 AM
  #145
Copeland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
Also, 5030s are pretty flexy to start with for a wood stick, and even the senior sticks are on the short side as well, about 2" shorter than a standard senior stick (so more like 58" than 60"). If you normally cut 4" off a senior stick, you'd only have to take 2" off a 5030, and it'd still have plenty of flex. Besides, wood and composite flexes aren't that comparable, my senior 5030 is way easier to flex than my senior Easton ST (85 flex).
Great info, thanks. Helps me out a lot

(blokey as well, for options... Thought I'd grabbed you in the quote)

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Old
01-18-2011, 09:15 AM
  #146
Jarick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRuin View Post
I have two 8k shafts, the little stopper is just a very thin wall of carbonite that can easily be removed with a small chisel. Might be better than cutting the tenon.
I wonder why they put it there? I just sawed the tenon, took ten seconds and I've done it before to save a little weight (and the Harrow tenons are pretty long).

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Old
01-18-2011, 12:20 PM
  #147
ponder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blokeyhighlander View Post
I don't know a whole lot about the feel of sticks as I played inline when I was little but now that I just got into ice as an adult the intermediate 5030 is the only stick I've used. It doesn't feel very solid against the puck - I might have to investigate intermediate composites at some point. The heel on my 5030 is getting chewed up on the ice and it's only seen a couple games action. The lie probably isn't right for me.
Yeah, if your heel is getting chewed up fast:
a) You could try a different lie
b) You could try a shorter stick (where does the stick come up to on skates?)
c) Don't do one of those NHL style, tape only the toe tape jobs, instead tape the whole blade, heel to toe. To get the most life out of your blades (especially wood blades), any part of the blade that comes into contact with the ice should have tape on it if. Though really this is good to do before any wear starts, not after, because splintery wood with tape over it wears quickly and just feels weird on the ice

But yeah, wear should happen roughly in the middle of the blade - a bit towards the heel is fine, but if you have serious wear right by the heel you need a shorter stick or a different lie.

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01-18-2011, 12:45 PM
  #148
MrRuin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
I wonder why they put it there? I just sawed the tenon, took ten seconds and I've done it before to save a little weight (and the Harrow tenons are pretty long).
so only reebok blades fit which makes them more revenue? I don't know. It serves no practical purpose that I can tell.

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01-18-2011, 02:38 PM
  #149
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new cooler

we need a new cooler for the dressing room,does anyone know where to get a briefcase style cooler,I have seen one that looked like a first aid kit and could hold 24 cold beverages,that would be ideal

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01-18-2011, 03:40 PM
  #150
blokeyhighlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
Yeah, if your heel is getting chewed up fast:
a) You could try a different lie
b) You could try a shorter stick (where does the stick come up to on skates?)
c) Don't do one of those NHL style, tape only the toe tape jobs, instead tape the whole blade, heel to toe. To get the most life out of your blades (especially wood blades), any part of the blade that comes into contact with the ice should have tape on it if. Though really this is good to do before any wear starts, not after, because splintery wood with tape over it wears quickly and just feels weird on the ice

But yeah, wear should happen roughly in the middle of the blade - a bit towards the heel is fine, but if you have serious wear right by the heel you need a shorter stick or a different lie.
Thanks for the advice. The stick is an inch or two too long (above the chin) but I wanted to see how much that affected me so I could have that extra reach. I do tape the heel but if I ever get around to buying a saw I'll cut it down to the appropriate length.

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we need a new cooler for the dressing room,does anyone know where to get a briefcase style cooler,I have seen one that looked like a first aid kit and could hold 24 cold beverages,that would be ideal
Epic first post .

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