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Two-piece vs OPS: Durability

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Old
06-14-2011, 01:00 AM
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Splitbtw
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Two-piece vs OPS: Durability

Are two-piece sticks more durable than OPS?

I know they are cheaper to replace and some of the other differences, but does anyone know if they are more durable? I am currently using a two-piece setup bc of the cost factor, but I want to move to a lower kick point (I'm using the One95 shaft with the Total One blade).

The closest thing I can probably get to it in a OPS is the One100 but I also want to move to the Getzlaf pattern so Bauer really isnt an option.

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06-14-2011, 01:47 AM
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mbeam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitbtw View Post
Are two-piece sticks more durable than OPS?

I know they are cheaper to replace and some of the other differences, but does anyone know if they are more durable? I am currently using a two-piece setup bc of the cost factor, but I want to move to a lower kick point (I'm using the One95 shaft with the Total One blade).

The closest thing I can probably get to it in a OPS is the One100 but I also want to move to the Getzlaf pattern so Bauer really isnt an option.
I hear rave reviews about the durability of the Easton ST.

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06-14-2011, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mbeam View Post
I hear rave reviews about the durability of the Easton ST.
I had a blade go soft on an Easton Stealth after a short time so I am reluctant to go back to Easton.

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06-14-2011, 04:30 AM
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Jimmy Carter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitbtw View Post
I had a blade go soft on an Easton Stealth after a short time so I am reluctant to go back to Easton.
Can't speak for the blade as I have a 2 piece set up but my Easton ST shaft is an absolute tank. Would be good if you like a stick that feels more "solid".

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06-14-2011, 08:54 AM
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AIREAYE
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There is no rule-of-thumb regarding durability b/w OPS and 2-piece. It's the product, not the setup.

If you're concerned about durability, the ST would be the way to go.

If you want a lower kickpoint, the Dolomite shafts are excellent.

Bauer offers the P02 Kronwall, which is Getzlaf.

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06-14-2011, 10:47 AM
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I'd prefer not to go Easton bc of blade jazzier I've had and other have had as well.

I would like to move to a ops if there are no differences in durability. if I'm staying with the two piece, I'd end up just getting a getzlaf curve from some company and put it in my one95, however I would also like the lower kick point.

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06-14-2011, 01:52 PM
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Jarick
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All things equal, you'll save money with the 2-piece because you can replace the blade or shaft when it breaks or wears out. But you can often find OPS' on sale that makes them fairly affordable.

As for kickpoint, I've gone back and forth and really don't know anymore. Someday if I had a crapload of money I'd order a bunch of sticks in different configurations and figure it out for sure.

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06-14-2011, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitbtw View Post
I'd prefer not to go Easton bc of blade jazzier I've had and other have had as well.

I would like to move to a ops if there are no differences in durability. if I'm staying with the two piece, I'd end up just getting a getzlaf curve from some company and put it in my one95, however I would also like the lower kick point.
Keep in mind that many OPS are actually two piece sticks that have been fused together. If you want a shaft with a lower kickpoint, then look at the high end tapered shafts from the major manufacturers(such as the Bauer X60).

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06-14-2011, 02:13 PM
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Easton SE shaft is a low kick point (tapered). I was using a Warrior tapered blade in it for a while, but went to an SE16 blade.

Great set up IMO.

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06-14-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secretsquirrel View Post
Keep in mind that many OPS are actually two piece sticks that have been fused together. If you want a shaft with a lower kickpoint, then look at the high end tapered shafts from the major manufacturers(such as the Bauer X60).
Indeed, the vast majority of "OPS" sticks are actually 2 piece sticks that have been epoxied together, on most of them you can cut at the fuse point, chisel out the tenon in the shaft (this is a huge pain in the ass btw, can take ages), and you end up with a tapered shaft. I don't think there's any real durability difference between OPS and 2-piece sticks, as mentioned it's just cheaper to replace one part of a 2-piece obviously.

Re: the OP, if you want to try a lower kick stick, go ahead and pick up a OPS, or a tapered shaft. As already mentioned the Dolo shaft is supposed to be excellent, and you might be able to find the older (Dragon graphics) ones on sale. When one of my current sticks breaks (I limit my self to two unbroken sticks at a time for financial reasons ) I'll likely replace it with a Dolo shaft. Especially if you're looking to switch to a new curve (sounds like you are if you want to switch to the Getzlaf pattern) I'd suggest a 2-piece, since if you end up not liking the new curve it'll be easy and cheap to switch to something different.

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06-14-2011, 06:45 PM
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AIREAYE
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Great post as always ponder

Looking at Getzlaf equivalents, the Bauer P02 is actually very hard to find (save for online...but yeah try not to )

Warrior Lidstrom (or older Jovanovski)
CCM Burns (new curve, might not find it as of yet)

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06-14-2011, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
Indeed, the vast majority of "OPS" sticks are actually 2 piece sticks that have been epoxied together, on most of them you can cut at the fuse point, chisel out the tenon in the shaft (this is a huge pain in the ass btw, can take ages), and you end up with a tapered shaft.
Wait so I have an SE16 shaft that I cut the broken blade off of. I got that stupid **** out of the bottom and it was a pain in the ass. But what you're saying is I that I have a tapered shaft cause honestly I was thinking of just flipping the shaft around ghetto style and putting a new blade in what was the top.

I also have no idea what blade to get cause I want a light one that isn't gonna throw off the lightweight shaft.

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06-14-2011, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Great post as always ponder

Looking at Getzlaf equivalents, the Bauer P02 is actually very hard to find (save for online...but yeah try not to )

Warrior Lidstrom (or older Jovanovski)
CCM Burns (new curve, might not find it as of yet)
Thanks! As for the clones, any idea if the lies on the various clones are the same as the Easton Getzlaf/Lidstrom? I ask because I simply don't know, and you can't go off what companies list online, since they all unfortunately measure lie differently. I believe the Warrior Lidstrom and Sherwood PP05 LI are basically exact Lidstrom clones (including the lie), but the Bauer P02 is listed as a 7 lie, while the Easton Lidstrom/Getzlaf is listed as a 5.5. Bauer and Easton lies tend to be somewhat similar, but it could be way off (for example the P88 and Iginla are both listed as 5.5 lies, but the Iginla is clearly a lower lie), just curious more than anything if anyone's compared these two curves side by side to see if the lie difference is as large as the listed difference?

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06-14-2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achronos19 View Post
Wait so I have an SE16 shaft that I cut the broken blade off of. I got that stupid **** out of the bottom and it was a pain in the ass. But what you're saying is I that I have a tapered shaft cause honestly I was thinking of just flipping the shaft around ghetto style and putting a new blade in what was the top.

I also have no idea what blade to get cause I want a light one that isn't gonna throw off the lightweight shaft.
I've never tried it with an SE16 personally, but yeah, often if you cut a so called "one piece" right at the fuse point, then chisel out the left over tenon (can literally take like an hour on some sticks!), you have a tapered shaft that will fit tapered blades. If you're not sure if the opening is the right size, just bring your converted shaft to your LHS and compare the opening to the size of the tenons on the tapered blades (try to find ones without much glue near the end to compare easily/properly). If it's a bang on fit, great, if the opening looks just a touch wide, that's OK too as you can shim with a layer of tape (only if it's close to a good fit already though), but if the opening is too small or way too big then just pop a standard blade in the other end. Flipping it over will mess with the kick point a bit, won't perform quite as well as it would if you can fit a tapered blade in the end that's supposed to be the bottom, but if the fit isn't good on the real bottom then flipping is your only choice, and the performance will generally still be OK.

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06-17-2011, 12:04 AM
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datsyukianLIKE
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i have the p02 from bauer and its almost the exact the toe is more closed that the getzlaf clone i didnt like the switch so i went back to the p02 the only place i can get it is the my bauer custom stick thing so im looking to switch soon

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06-17-2011, 09:28 AM
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I just converted an SE16 to a tapered shaft and it was indeed a pain. I cut off the blade at the fuse point but the opening was too small so I think I ended up cutting it a couple inches higher. I also had to chisel out the tenon and then file the opening. A tapered blade fits in there pretty well now.

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06-17-2011, 12:50 PM
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Jimmy Carter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
Thanks! As for the clones, any idea if the lies on the various clones are the same as the Easton Getzlaf/Lidstrom? I ask because I simply don't know, and you can't go off what companies list online, since they all unfortunately measure lie differently. I believe the Warrior Lidstrom and Sherwood PP05 LI are basically exact Lidstrom clones (including the lie), but the Bauer P02 is listed as a 7 lie, while the Easton Lidstrom/Getzlaf is listed as a 5.5. Bauer and Easton lies tend to be somewhat similar, but it could be way off (for example the P88 and Iginla are both listed as 5.5 lies, but the Iginla is clearly a lower lie), just curious more than anything if anyone's compared these two curves side by side to see if the lie difference is as large as the listed difference?
You covered most of them already (answering your own initial question ), but just for everyone's knowledge the CCM Burns curve is also listed as 5.5 lie

Been thinking about comparing some of them side by side, if anyone has I'd also be interested to hear what you think. If not, next time I make it to my LHS I'll try and remember to compare and report back

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06-17-2011, 01:08 PM
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I likes me heel wedges, and I've found the transition between the Lidstrom/Getzlaf (I've used the Easton and Warrior versions) and a Bauer P106 to be pretty seamless. Based on descriptions, these two curves have noticable differences (particularly the lie), but I didn't notice any increases or decreases in performance based solely on the curve.

Shaft type on the other hand...

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06-17-2011, 10:43 PM
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I have always been loyal to 2-piece sticks, I do own a OP (i got a reebok for literally dirt cheap) but i still prefer my 2-piece. I am actually very interested to hear people opinions on why i prefer 2-piece sticks, it has very little to do with durability or price, it has to do with:

1.) i like to be able to inter-change blades, it gives me the ability to find my preferred blade pattern without having to get an entire stick and risk not liking the blade. this way, even if i decide to use a different pattern i dont have to abandon my entire stick in favor of a new one.

2.) call me crazy (and i am interested to hear if anyone shares my opinion on this) but i actually PREFER a stick with a little bit of weight. i'm not talking wooden stick heavy, but i have always felt that OP sticks are so light in most cases that i cant get a good feel for the stick when i'm shooting. the 2-piece allows me to "feel" the stick a bit more, the extra weight of the stick gives me more control & confidence in my shot, i can't really explain it.

does this make any sense?

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06-18-2011, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooseamania View Post
I have always been loyal to 2-piece sticks, I do own a OP (i got a reebok for literally dirt cheap) but i still prefer my 2-piece. I am actually very interested to hear people opinions on why i prefer 2-piece sticks, it has very little to do with durability or price, it has to do with:

1.) i like to be able to inter-change blades, it gives me the ability to find my preferred blade pattern without having to get an entire stick and risk not liking the blade. this way, even if i decide to use a different pattern i dont have to abandon my entire stick in favor of a new one.

2.) call me crazy (and i am interested to hear if anyone shares my opinion on this) but i actually PREFER a stick with a little bit of weight. i'm not talking wooden stick heavy, but i have always felt that OP sticks are so light in most cases that i cant get a good feel for the stick when i'm shooting. the 2-piece allows me to "feel" the stick a bit more, the extra weight of the stick gives me more control & confidence in my shot, i can't really explain it.

does this make any sense?
I agree with both of your points.
Still rocking my One95 2 piece shaft, at least 2 years old, and like to mix up the blade patterns.
I like the added weight to the bottom of the stick as well. The one 95 is so light, I like to have some "resistance" while holding the stick.

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06-18-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooseamania View Post
I have always been loyal to 2-piece sticks, I do own a OP (i got a reebok for literally dirt cheap) but i still prefer my 2-piece. I am actually very interested to hear people opinions on why i prefer 2-piece sticks, it has very little to do with durability or price, it has to do with:

1.) i like to be able to inter-change blades, it gives me the ability to find my preferred blade pattern without having to get an entire stick and risk not liking the blade. this way, even if i decide to use a different pattern i dont have to abandon my entire stick in favor of a new one.

2.) call me crazy (and i am interested to hear if anyone shares my opinion on this) but i actually PREFER a stick with a little bit of weight. i'm not talking wooden stick heavy, but i have always felt that OP sticks are so light in most cases that i cant get a good feel for the stick when i'm shooting. the 2-piece allows me to "feel" the stick a bit more, the extra weight of the stick gives me more control & confidence in my shot, i can't really explain it.

does this make any sense?
I disagree but I can see your point and I've heard of people liking it for the same reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShootIt
I agree with both of your points.
Still rocking my One95 2 piece shaft, at least 2 years old, and like to mix up the blade patterns.
I like the added weight to the bottom of the stick as well. The one 95 is so light, I like to have some "resistance" while holding the stick.
My One95 one piece feels like a ton of bricks after using the '10 CCM U+ CL!

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07-20-2011, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
I just converted an SE16 to a tapered shaft and it was indeed a pain. I cut off the blade at the fuse point but the opening was too small so I think I ended up cutting it a couple inches higher. I also had to chisel out the tenon and then file the opening. A tapered blade fits in there pretty well now.

I was just able to pick up a brand new pro stock SE16 for about $60 from my LHS (play it again) after I traded in a lax stick that was sent to me in error and never received follow-up on.

I figure if the blade goes soft or breaks on me, I can just take the time to convert it to a tapered shaft.

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07-21-2011, 08:35 AM
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AIREAYE
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just be sure that it's a real SE16 and not a painted something something. Check the sticker inside the shaft or on the outside

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07-21-2011, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
I've never tried it with an SE16 personally, but yeah, often if you cut a so called "one piece" right at the fuse point, then chisel out the left over tenon (can literally take like an hour on some sticks!), you have a tapered shaft that will fit tapered blades. If you're not sure if the opening is the right size, just bring your converted shaft to your LHS and compare the opening to the size of the tenons on the tapered blades (try to find ones without much glue near the end to compare easily/properly). If it's a bang on fit, great, if the opening looks just a touch wide, that's OK too as you can shim with a layer of tape (only if it's close to a good fit already though), but if the opening is too small or way too big then just pop a standard blade in the other end. Flipping it over will mess with the kick point a bit, won't perform quite as well as it would if you can fit a tapered blade in the end that's supposed to be the bottom, but if the fit isn't good on the real bottom then flipping is your only choice, and the performance will generally still be OK.
If it's too narrow, cut up the shaft half inch by half inch until it's the right size. Actually, you can do that from the get go if you're willing to accept a little bit shorter of a shaft, and save the hassle of chiseling out. You'll still get a nice tight fit. I have a mess of former OPS as tapered shafts sitting around the the basement, mostly easton, from my dad's old broken sticks. Of course, I haven't broken a stick in ages and he just buys a new OPS if his break, so they just sit there....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitbtw View Post
I'd prefer not to go Easton bc of blade jazzier I've had and other have had as well.
The ST does not have that issue. It's made for durability, while the synergys and stealths are made for performance. The blades on those are built for great feel, and sacrifice durability. The ST (Super Tough) blades are built to take a beating at the expense of feel.

Basically, the ST is the original synergy, and I still see one or two of those things around on occasion. It's a tough stick that performs pretty well, and is still ridiculously common in the NHL because of that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
just be sure that it's a real SE16 and not a painted something something. Check the sticker inside the shaft or on the outside
As long as it's not a stealth, it'll work. And the stealths will be painted as such.

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07-21-2011, 11:41 AM
  #25
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Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
just be sure that it's a real SE16 and not a painted something something. Check the sticker inside the shaft or on the outside
Usually, I thought it was other sticks that were painted over Se16s? What else could it be?

This one has the signature little line where the fuse was painted over.

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