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Best sticks for wrist shots

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Old
07-27-2011, 11:25 AM
  #26
Jarick
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I have a different philosophy on open curves...to me, they aren't open to help get the puck up but because you want to play them with the blade closed. That means you want a higher lie than recommended, because it will be flat on the ice when you close up the blade.

Now when you do this, you're kind of trapping the puck between the blade and the ice. This lets you load up the stick while maintaining contact, which you can then release towards the target (i.e. snap shot). The open blade means that the puck won't just slide along the ice, because the blade face is more closed. Basically it changes the angle that you hold the stick so that your wrists are more rolled over and you can use the ice to help flex the stick for a more powerful shot.

Try that with a neutral face curve and the puck will weakly slide along the ice. You'll lose power. Now there are disadvantages, because in "standard" stickhandling position, the toe comes off the ice. That's why those curves have a rockered heel, to help with stickhandling. But less blade on the ice means less blade to make or catch passes, and stickhandling overall is trickier.

Wrist shots required a different technique as well, since you'll need to cup the puck, otherwise there's not enough blade on the ice to roll the puck heel to toe, which is why you get that wobble. You need to just nix the traditional wrister and embrace the snapper.

Slap shots aren't affected as much because you want the blade face closed upon impact anyway. Depending on the curve, loft, lie, and stick length, you'll have to adjust where you hit the puck and how open you leave your blade on contact and follow through. In general the puck will raise up a lot more with the same technique.

The Sakic and Drury have nearly identical lie, length, rocker, and toe. The difference is that the Sakic curves and twists open in the middle while the Drury just kinks and opens at the heel. The Sakic tends to be easier with stickhandling and puck protection as well as accuracy, while the Drury tends to give you more velocity on shots and can be easier to use for catching/receiving passes. This is my experience using those curves extensively.

Sorry for the book but it's fun to think about curves...I literally lay awake at night or daydream about them in the car or at work.

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07-28-2011, 12:46 AM
  #27
AIREAYE
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HAHA it's okay, I do the same with other gear. It sounds like your experience and shooting skill is extensive, I still haven't mastered the snapper and my slapper is just coming along. My reliance on curves is more for control and ease of shooting and the Sakic just doesn't work for me.

Ever try the P88 or its equivalents?

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07-28-2011, 01:06 AM
  #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
HAHA it's okay, I do the same with other gear. It sounds like your experience and shooting skill is extensive, I still haven't mastered the snapper and my slapper is just coming along. My reliance on curves is more for control and ease of shooting and the Sakic just doesn't work for me.

Ever try the P88 or its equivalents?
I like it, it's fairly mild, but the lie is high for my preference (between 5.5 and 6). It's a nice pattern, more so for snap and wristers than slappers though.

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07-28-2011, 03:18 AM
  #29
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I like a PM9 or Montreal "European" blade for wristers and slappers. Great slapshots and wristers from each really. They both utility well for the two different shots.

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07-28-2011, 09:33 AM
  #30
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P88 is a good all around curve for a player who wants to do it all. No downsides to it really. It's not open so my shot suffers with it for the reasons I described, and I'd cut my stick shorter to play with it and have to do more passing and deking than straight shooting.

I'll say most of my teammates use either a PM9 or P88, and the ones that have a great shot are primarily slappers or mini slappers, and they tend to be guys that can deke fairly well too. Nobody has a wrist/snap shot like I do on my team. Actually most of the guys on my team aren't good shooters but we're moving up and might change out some players so hopefully we'll get some better shooting talent.

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07-28-2011, 09:19 PM
  #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
P88 is a good all around curve for a player who wants to do it all. No downsides to it really. It's not open so my shot suffers with it for the reasons I described, and I'd cut my stick shorter to play with it and have to do more passing and deking than straight shooting.

I'll say most of my teammates use either a PM9 or P88, and the ones that have a great shot are primarily slappers or mini slappers, and they tend to be guys that can deke fairly well too. Nobody has a wrist/snap shot like I do on my team. Actually most of the guys on my team aren't good shooters but we're moving up and might change out some players so hopefully we'll get some better shooting talent.
I would agree with the P88 being a good all around blade. Good for faceoffs, backhanders, slapshots, shinwhacking etc.

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01-29-2012, 08:16 PM
  #32
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Hi everyone
I just started playing hockey again after 8 years, and though I've spent almost 4 months now in researching the new sticks technology, some aspect still baffles me. I used to love wood sticks, but they break easily and we have no hockey shops here.. so i went with shaft/blade for practice and OPS for matches.

I notice that the curves nowdays are somewhat different than what i'm used to, I used to use a straighter curve. Right now I'm using an X40 S10 with P88 curve for my OPS, i admit that the low kickpoint gives me a harder/quicker shots and the more curved blade gives awesome control.

The problem is, my accuracy is now a disaster.. especially when shooting to the left side of the goalie. I used to shoot with a more open follow through, then changed to a more closed one.. still didn't work. I also noticed that my blade is very soft(?) especially when taking slappers/one-timers, feels like it deflects so much/not very rigid.

Though i don't live in a country where hockey is popular, i've been playing since i was 13 y/old (30 now), made the national team when i was 17, played in swedish minor league u21 so I think technique wise, i have experience.. not saying i'm perfect tho. I'm short with pretty lean muscle (5'6 & 150lbs, 10% bodyfat) and uses a 77 - 80 flex (intermediate after cut down)

Here are my questions:

1. Does my accuracy suffer from the blade patterns?
2. Does the not rigid feel i get also affect my accuracy?
3. Will the high end low kick point sticks have that same non rigid feel on the blade?
4. Is there a big difference in shot release quickness/power between lowkick point & mid kick point?

Thank you for reading this, really sorry for the long post. Thing is i'm looking for a new stick and since i don't have the leisure to try them first, i need to be sure my $200 will be worth while... Any advice is very welcome

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01-29-2012, 08:40 PM
  #33
AIREAYE
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Michael, I sure hope you read this http://hfboards.hockeysfuture.com/sh....php?t=1091905

but I'll answer your questions anyhow

1 : Not necessarily, different curves take time to adjust and that obviously depends person to person and how good their shooting technique is. Very technically skilled shooters will have little problem adjusting to different curves while lesser skilled guys may have more difficulty

2 : Yes, technically it will since some energy is lost when a lower quality blade torques

3 : Higher end sticks have stiffer blades that deflect less

4 : Not a big difference but it definitely should be noticeable. It also depends on your skill level. If you have a weak shot, switching kickpoints won't miraculously make it any more powerful.

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01-29-2012, 09:21 PM
  #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Michael, I sure hope you read this http://hfboards.hockeysfuture.com/sh....php?t=1091905

but I'll answer your questions anyhow

1 : Not necessarily, different curves take time to adjust and that obviously depends person to person and how good their shooting technique is. Very technically skilled shooters will have little problem adjusting to different curves while lesser skilled guys may have more difficulty

2 : Yes, technically it will since some energy is lost when a lower quality blade torques

3 : Higher end sticks have stiffer blades that deflect less

4 : Not a big difference but it definitely should be noticeable. It also depends on your skill level. If you have a weak shot, switching kickpoints won't miraculously make it any more powerful.
Hi AIRAYE, thanks for the link and the reply!

I've been noted as a good shooter for as long as i played, not spectacular... but good enough. Generally shoots around 65 - 75mph with wristers, no problem shooting from any body positions, no problem shooting from the heel/mid/toe (though i enjoy mid the most), i like to lean a lot into my stick, also often cupping(?) the puck when shooting.

I didn't have problem adjusting to the new curves in terms of velocity or lifting. It's just when trying to hit those water bottles and pipes i'm really struggling with...

I've checked some sites like patterns database, and also a couple of review threads in this forum (that's how i chose P88 the first time, btw) but i still have no clue.. though i'm interested in trying the P92 on an APX

By your personal experience, how does the P92 perform? Should I try to look for a straighter curve like the old days?

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01-29-2012, 09:49 PM
  #35
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No one should tell you what curve you SHOULD be using except yourself. It's all personal preference. I myself really enjoy using the P92 when shooting indoors and in shoes, but I cannot seem to use it well on ice. Others swear by it and it's one of the most popular curves on the market. If you're serious about trying different curves. I suggest buying shaft blade combos and different blades to test out yourself.

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01-29-2012, 09:54 PM
  #36
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Yeah I guess ordering some different blades is the only option for now.. If only shipping & taxes from the US were cheap

Thanks for your time in replying my questions, AIREAYE

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01-29-2012, 10:48 PM
  #37
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Originally Posted by michaelshu View Post
Yeah I guess ordering some different blades is the only option for now.. If only shipping & taxes from the US were cheap

Thanks for your time in replying my questions, AIREAYE
No problem man, it must be fun playing in... Indonesia?

Anyhow just make sure you match your standard blades with your standard shafts and tapered blades with tapered shafts

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01-29-2012, 11:25 PM
  #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
No problem man, it must be fun playing in... Indonesia?

Anyhow just make sure you match your standard blades with your standard shafts and tapered blades with tapered shafts
Yeah, it's fun because me and the old boys can get back together and just recently started re-introducing ice hockey to the public, also in seeing that there are more and more kids interested in the sport every day... dealing with corrupted government and equipment stock is painful though.

Ah yes, they have tapered shafts now. Thanks for reminding

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01-30-2012, 10:03 AM
  #39
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There's a couple threads where I talk about the P92, but your question is unique so I'll try to answer it.

First, if you can flex the blade in your hands, it will flex when you hit the puck and mess with your accuracy. Bauer blades tend to be very good and stiff but the X:40 is a lower model and might not have the lifespan. My X:60 has seen maybe 50-60 ice times in the last year and is still almost as stiff as new.

Alternately, it could be the low kickpoint of the X:40 is causing the blade to torque open on slappers and one timers. Again I think part of this could be the X:40 not being as high quality a stick but you might get along a lot better with a Supreme model stick which has a stiffer reinforced kickpoint.

Me personally, kickpoints have a lot more to do with feel than anything else, although I have noticed that lower kick sticks tend to give me higher shots. But my slapshots are absolutely nothing to write home about while my snap/wrist shots are pretty dang good if I can say so. I don't like mid kick sticks because they feel like they are working against me. But again I never take slappers and like to shoot quick snappers with my hands less than two feet apart.

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01-30-2012, 12:21 PM
  #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
There's a couple threads where I talk about the P92, but your question is unique so I'll try to answer it.

First, if you can flex the blade in your hands, it will flex when you hit the puck and mess with your accuracy. Bauer blades tend to be very good and stiff but the X:40 is a lower model and might not have the lifespan. My X:60 has seen maybe 50-60 ice times in the last year and is still almost as stiff as new.

Alternately, it could be the low kickpoint of the X:40 is causing the blade to torque open on slappers and one timers. Again I think part of this could be the X:40 not being as high quality a stick but you might get along a lot better with a Supreme model stick which has a stiffer reinforced kickpoint.

Me personally, kickpoints have a lot more to do with feel than anything else, although I have noticed that lower kick sticks tend to give me higher shots. But my slapshots are absolutely nothing to write home about while my snap/wrist shots are pretty dang good if I can say so. I don't like mid kick sticks because they feel like they are working against me. But again I never take slappers and like to shoot quick snappers with my hands less than two feet apart.
Actually yes, i can flex the blade if i give quite a pressure on it. And the X40 blade also gives you that loud crunchy sound when a puck hits it hard, also feels almost like the blade is vibrating..

Let me try and borrow a friend's stick this saturday, i believe he still have a wooden one and a supreme line, we'll see how it works.

Btw, I read you threads about the P92.. I get the feeling that the way you shoot wristers is somewhat similar to me

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01-30-2012, 12:49 PM
  #41
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Crunchy sound? Are you sure your blade isn't broken?


Last edited by AIREAYE: 01-30-2012 at 12:55 PM.
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01-30-2012, 12:53 PM
  #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Cruchy sound? Are you sure your blade isn't broken?
Okay, I apologize.. "crunchy" might not be the appropriate word to describe it.. but no, definitely not broken.

Hmm how can I put this, we all know that composite sticks are hollow, right? Well as for mine, it just feels like it's too hollow.. thus making more noise when hitting the puck.

I hope i'm making sense lol

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01-30-2012, 03:44 PM
  #43
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Try a Sherwood 5030 wooden stick. The trick is to keep the shot low and fast.

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01-30-2012, 03:46 PM
  #44
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What are you talking about?

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01-31-2012, 01:51 AM
  #45
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What are you talking about?
Is that a question for me?

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