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One and two piece stick comparison?

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Old
02-03-2012, 08:25 PM
  #1
tobyandmisty
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One and two piece stick comparison?

I am interested in hearing some thoughts on the two. I never owned a two piece stick. Thank you.

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02-04-2012, 12:08 AM
  #2
AIREAYE
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Most OPS are basically 2 piece anyhow. They perform at the same level and the only reason as to why not they're not as popular is just that they're not as popular.

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02-04-2012, 08:13 AM
  #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Most OPS are basically 2 piece anyhow. They perform at the same level and the only reason as to why not they're not as popular is just that they're not as popular.

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02-04-2012, 05:26 PM
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Jarick
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I wonder if it's because they make more money off someone buying a new one piece because his blade went soft (shaft is fine) or shaft snapped (blade is fine).

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02-04-2012, 09:13 PM
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AndreD
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I find personally that OPS have more flex than the equivalent two piece. I tend to buy one piece and when they break just cut it and save the shaft. The price difference here between a new stick (about 65 for the low/mid range composites) and a shaft (about 60) is tiny anyway, less than the price of a blade (starts at 25 for wood, 55 for composites)

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02-05-2012, 12:28 AM
  #6
Super Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobyandmisty View Post
I am interested in hearing some thoughts on the two. I never owned a two piece stick. Thank you.
Basically it's about energy transfer and feel.

Two piece sticks are said to have less "feel" than a OPS, and OPS's transfer more energy, quicker. This is due to the fact that the OPS is a single, solid material rather than two pieces stuck together with glue (obviously). The overlapping of the shaft and blade on a two piece dampen the feel and slow/reduce energy transfer, and also can cause vibrations when stick-handling or shooting, ect. OPS's allow for quicker, harder shots because they have a lower (closer to the blade) kick point.

In my experience (15+ years) there is a notable difference. I get most my sticks for free, but looking at prices for shafts and blades, it really doesn't seem worth it to go that route.

OT: If you're looking for a (relatively) cheaper stick, I would definitely suggest the Sher-wood T90; It's a bit heavy, but has good feel and is very durable.

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02-05-2012, 08:48 AM
  #7
Pez68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave View Post
Basically it's about energy transfer and feel.

Two piece sticks are said to have less "feel" than a OPS, and OPS's transfer more energy, quicker. This is due to the fact that the OPS is a single, solid material rather than two pieces stuck together with glue (obviously). The overlapping of the shaft and blade on a two piece dampen the feel and slow/reduce energy transfer, and also can cause vibrations when stick-handling or shooting, ect. OPS's allow for quicker, harder shots because they have a lower (closer to the blade) kick point.

In my experience (15+ years) there is a notable difference. I get most my sticks for free, but looking at prices for shafts and blades, it really doesn't seem worth it to go that route.

OT: If you're looking for a (relatively) cheaper stick, I would definitely suggest the Sher-wood T90; It's a bit heavy, but has good feel and is very durable.
Actually, this is only true for the very high end OPS's. Most of them are fused two-pieces. I've actually removed the blades from broken Bauer OPS's and put them in a shaft. I think only the Total One and APX are a true one piece. Not sure about other brands.

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02-05-2012, 09:22 AM
  #8
tobyandmisty
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I just found out my Warrior basically is a two piece.

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02-05-2012, 11:33 AM
  #9
Super Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pez68 View Post
Actually, this is only true for the very high end OPS's. Most of them are fused two-pieces. I've actually removed the blades from broken Bauer OPS's and put them in a shaft. I think only the Total One and APX are a true one piece. Not sure about other brands.
While you are correct most are two pieces fused together, they still are put together in a better manner than glue and overlapping material (allowing for that lower kick point, and reduced vibrations). I've used all sorts of OPS sticks and I've never found one with an actual blade stuck into the shaft, but if you have, than I guess they do exist.

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02-05-2012, 11:40 AM
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Super Dave
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Actually looking at the above comment, I think the only stick I've ever found the overlapping material was on a Warrior Dolomite.

I usually break my sticks in half or get "soft-blade" and just ask for a new one, so I guess I'm not the best person to answer the question. I was just passing along what "they" say are the differences.

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02-05-2012, 12:04 PM
  #11
AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave View Post
Actually looking at the above comment, I think the only stick I've ever found the overlapping material was on a Warrior Dolomite.

I usually break my sticks in half or get "soft-blade" and just ask for a new one, so I guess I'm not the best person to answer the question. I was just passing along what "they" say are the differences.
Dolo is a good example. SE16 is a great one, people have chiseled out the blades from the shaft.

There are a few ways shaft and blades can be joined. The most common way is simply shaft+blade with the fuse point either fastened with resins/glues (most low-end) or heat/pressure fused (like in the Dolo). Another way is called a 'spear' construction where the shaft extends to the heel of the blade. This construction is generally better performing and has better energy transfer properties than the former method and you'll see them in sticks like the CNT and the 9K Sickick III (iirc).

But what Pez says about it being true for only high-end OPS is right. The definition of 'True one-piece' is inconsistent. Some say that spear construction should qualify, others say absolutely no fuse point while others say the stick has to be made from a single mold.

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02-05-2012, 12:24 PM
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Super Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Dolo is a good example. SE16 is a great one, people have chiseled out the blades from the shaft.

There are a few ways shaft and blades can be joined. The most common way is simply shaft+blade with the fuse point either fastened with resins/glues (most low-end) or heat/pressure fused (like in the Dolo). Another way is called a 'spear' construction where the shaft extends to the heel of the blade. This construction is generally better performing and has better energy transfer properties than the former method and you'll see them in sticks like the CNT and the 9K Sickick III (iirc).

But what Pez says about it being true for only high-end OPS is right. The definition of 'True one-piece' is inconsistent. Some say that spear construction should qualify, others say absolutely no fuse point while others say the stick has to be made from a single mold.
Gotcha. I stand corrected. I've been fortunate enough to use only top of the line sticks for the past 5 years or so, so I'll use that as my excuse .

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02-06-2012, 10:46 AM
  #13
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I usually define one piece sticks as being joined at the heel. This saves weight near the base of the stick which greatly improves balance. I have no idea if a "true" one piece stick feels any better or worse than one joined at the heel. My gut tells me blade construction is a far more important component.

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02-06-2012, 09:16 PM
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Sean Garrity
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I didn't want to start a new thread so instead I just decided to hijack this one.

I recently broke the blade on my SE16 and was wondering people's experiences with flipping the stick upside down. I have a buddy who says he does it all the time and he will do it for me. I was recently looking in to buying a two piece anyhow because I play mainly roller hockey so I wear through blades way too much for my liking (I would just buy woodies to practice with and only use my SE15 in games). Also, what type of blade will I need to buy?

My same friend uses these blades and doesn't notice a real difference between these 20 dollar blades compared to the 60 dollar ones. Any help is greatly appreciated!

http://www.hockeygiant.com/eassynabsdbldsr.html

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02-06-2012, 09:39 PM
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hyster110
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the only problem with flipping a stick is if its a low kickpoint stick you completely lose and screw up the kickpoint. i didn't like flipping stick, rather just buying a cheap new one

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02-07-2012, 09:30 AM
  #16
Jarick
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SE16's CAN be turned into tapered shafts. If the blade is literally broken (not the shaft near the blade). But it requires some careful chiseling and cutting. I've done it personally, works fine.

But SE16's don't really have a very low kickpoint so you could easily flip and use a standard tenon blade in the other end. No cutting required except to get the length you want (assuming it's a senior stick).

For roller those ABS blades will hold up a lot better but they do weigh a lot more. If that bugs you, you could either put a wood plug in the other end to balance it out, or else find a different blade. I highly recommend the Montreal M95 blade...harder to find but it's ABS and wood for a combination of durability and light weight.

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02-07-2012, 01:13 PM
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Re: "shots are harder with true OPS sticks," Chara has the hardest slap shot in the world and uses a 2-piece, while Kovalev was always considered to have one of the hardest wrsit shots in the world, and he uses a 2-piece too. Assuming you have a good, tight fit, I really do not notice any sort of power or feel difference between true 1-piece sticks, fused 1-piece sticks (and the vast majority of "1-piece" sticks are fused, which means they're 2-piece sticks that have been glued together with an epoxy instead of hot glue, sometimes with a wrap added to the outside to try to hide the fuse point), or true 2-piece sticks. I think the main differences are a slightly different kick point (it'd be hard to get a really low kick point with a 2-piece), and 2-pieces being a bit more blade heavy (because you've obviously got some extra material around the fuse point). I personally think the main reason 2-pieces are less popular is because people like something they can just grab straight off the rack, they don't want to do any work at home, and if you own a 2-piece you should really own a heat gun.

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02-21-2012, 09:28 PM
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can i take a broken blade out of a sherwood t90?

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Old
02-22-2012, 02:25 PM
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The only true one piece stick I know of on the market is the Sherwood Nexon sticks

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02-22-2012, 03:35 PM
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the only thing I find ridiculious is that a shaft and blade combo often costs more than a OPS... its likely whether there is a market for it, but IMO a 2 piece will be a more durable and more customizable option

I must say that any synergy with a wood blade feels pretty darn sweet and hey, if the blade gets soft, what's 10 bucks every 5 games?

I've used composite blade/composite shaft (s19) and the glue does add a tiny bit of weight, making it possibly more blade heavy, but not noticably and its just as good as a standard.

again the beautiful thing is, if you chip up the blade from a skate or from face offs or whatever, you still have your stick

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02-25-2012, 10:57 AM
  #21
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just picked up an AK27 shaft and an Easton Iginla wood blade yesterday...

woowee... other than the fact that this combo is super light (wood blade) boy does this feel like a traditional stick

it does have a wood plug in the end, which i've cut down to my desired length, but as the stick doesn't have a kick point, but rather just a constant one... its like a wood stick in behavior, yet snappier

I must admit the 85 flex is very flexible, but w/o the kick point.. it flexes where you load your middle hand, so slapper come off hot

the wood blade really is amazing... its softer, but the feel is so darn tactitle
compared to my RM19 & S11, the blade both felt basically dead

compared to the ST, I find that they both feel nice, but wood is so much better at rolling off the saucers and backhanders, even though its the same blade profile.

being that we dont' take clappers in shinny or our mens league unless its completely clear, I think a wood blade should last pretty long... but its so easy to change, its not a big deal

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02-25-2012, 10:59 AM
  #22
AIREAYE
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haha glad you found something that works for you. Did you purchase a heat gun for use at home?

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02-25-2012, 02:32 PM
  #23
Super Dave
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If you don't have a heat gun, use a stove top

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02-25-2012, 06:04 PM
  #24
r3cc0s
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glue gun & heat gun...

often times there just isn't enough glue provided on the blade or butt end

still had the same kit I used in the aluminium days and when comps were only 2 piece

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03-25-2016, 04:17 PM
  #25
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It's 2016. Am I the only one who likes two pieces more then one ?? 😳

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