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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice

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Old
08-06-2012, 09:54 AM
  #101
Jarick
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That makes no sense. You got the tape wet, right? There's a lubricant to help it slip on and then it dries as a glue. Water soluble golf grips from Golfsmith work too. I used to use a bit of Aquanet...same principle, slippery on and sticky when it dries.

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08-06-2012, 05:14 PM
  #102
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I just gave up. I might just do normal tape next time, since I'm starting to prefer shorter handles anyway.

Also just bought a Warrior Dynasty today for $150. Went with the Kopitar curve because I'm feeling really uncomfortable using my Parise curve. The forehand is great, easy to throw a controlled sauce, but my backhanders flop around like it's got seizure.

I blew 3 grade A scoring chances today because I've yet to acquaint myself with a heel curve. Blew past a couple defenders, deked out the goalie with the same move, only to flub a weak, low shot into his pads.

Will have the Kopitar Dynasty on standby if this keeps going on.

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08-07-2012, 01:50 PM
  #103
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I switched to grip flex tape since I didn't like the Tacki Mac offerings. Strange they don't just have a normal 1" cloth tape end.

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08-07-2012, 02:13 PM
  #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
I switched to grip flex tape since I didn't like the Tacki Mac offerings. Strange they don't just have a normal 1" cloth tape end.
I've been caught using no tape and found it perfectly fine with today's sticks. Am I crazy?

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08-07-2012, 02:33 PM
  #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esidebill View Post
I've been caught using no tape and found it perfectly fine with today's sticks. Am I crazy?
I haven't seen anyone who don't tape their stick's butt end.

Guess it's fine if you're using a grippy shaft?

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08-07-2012, 02:44 PM
  #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilch View Post
I haven't seen anyone who don't tape their stick's butt end.

Guess it's fine if you're using a grippy shaft?
I always figured your glove + grippy shaft was fine. Not to mention your gloves get torn up by tape.

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08-07-2012, 07:00 PM
  #107
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Yeah, I was thinking about this the other day. Obviously its important to have grip for your top hand, while being able to let the stick rest and slide pretty lightly on your bottom hand. But with these modern grippy sticks, the opposite happens - the tape at the top is actually LESS sticky than the rest of the shaft!

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08-07-2012, 08:11 PM
  #108
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Yeah, that's why I stopped using grip shafts now. I can slide my bottom hand quickly to react to passes and rebounds much faster than if I had to open my hand and close it again.

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08-08-2012, 08:22 AM
  #109
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Use grippy tech and tape the bottom of the shaft. Brilliant!

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08-08-2012, 09:56 AM
  #110
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I use grip sticks because my palms aren't grippy and just slide around. I use a fairly light grip when carrying the puck and only medium or so when shooting.

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08-09-2012, 08:13 PM
  #111
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As a super noob, how do I know when my stick is too long? My stick is as tall as I am when I'm not in skates, but I feel like it's working fine for me. I'm terrible at puck handling, but I fancy myself a defenseman what with the poke check and whatnot. Whenever I play with my buddy's shorter stick (which I'll admit I've only done once) it's super weird and uncomfortable. Then again, everything I've read about stick lengths on the internet says my stick is too long. What say you internet?

Also, this is my first post.

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08-09-2012, 10:43 PM
  #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengerm77 View Post
As a super noob, how do I know when my stick is too long? My stick is as tall as I am when I'm not in skates, but I feel like it's working fine for me. I'm terrible at puck handling, but I fancy myself a defenseman what with the poke check and whatnot. Whenever I play with my buddy's shorter stick (which I'll admit I've only done once) it's super weird and uncomfortable. Then again, everything I've read about stick lengths on the internet says my stick is too long. What say you internet?

Also, this is my first post.
It's sort of a matter of personal preference. Your stick is probably too long for most people, but if it's working for you, why change it? I find that I'm much more effective with a shorter stick (I cut mine so it's around my chin without skates) because it helps with my stickhandling and shooting mechanics, and has really improved my slapshot. As a super noob, your puckhandling is probably going to be terrible anyway. Once you get the basics down, try experimenting with different lengths. Eventually you'll get a good idea of what works best for you.

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08-16-2012, 08:24 PM
  #113
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The new RBZ stick is pretty damn heavy for a top end twig.

Felt like it almost weighed as much as the Easton ST from 2010.

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08-16-2012, 09:32 PM
  #114
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Yeah, it's not terribly light, but feels good still. Good pop, not as much as the RS imo.

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08-17-2012, 03:36 AM
  #115
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Question. Has anyone tried out the Sherwood Nexon N12 stick? How is it compared to other top end sticks? Also, are they whippier than other brands?

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08-17-2012, 09:27 PM
  #116
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No, but I've heard great things. Until I ordered my sub-5 lie from Base I was strongly considering one but now I don't think I would want to go back to regular lies.

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08-26-2012, 02:17 PM
  #117
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These sticks sure have a short shelf life. The RS s already being put on clearance online since the RS II is coming out soon. I bought a RS on eBay for $180.

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08-26-2012, 09:03 PM
  #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilch View Post
Question. Has anyone tried out the Sherwood Nexon N12 stick? How is it compared to other top end sticks? Also, are they whippier than other brands?
They're very solid... they aren't better than a RS or APX but for half the price they can't be beat. By far the best bang for you buck... a step above all sticks offered in the same price range.

As for the flex they're pretty whippy imo but I used an 85

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08-27-2012, 01:13 AM
  #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TieClark View Post
They're very solid... they aren't better than a RS or APX but for half the price they can't be beat. By far the best bang for you buck... a step above all sticks offered in the same price range.

As for the flex they're pretty whippy imo but I used an 85
They're no longer half the price. Their availability is too limited, and with the RS2 coming out, people are selling the RS at around $180, which is exactly how much the n12 costs.

In fact, here's a couple of good deals I came across on eBay the other day, check it out if you're interested:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RICHARD-PARK-...item35bf25b392

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/STEVE-SULLIVA...item4d040e2b94

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09-03-2012, 03:49 PM
  #120
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Hey, quick question. I'm thinking about buying a Reebok 4k sickkick 3, is it a decent stick for using outdoors?

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09-03-2012, 05:26 PM
  #121
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No sir, take a step down to the 3K Resistance or even the 2K if you want to stick with Reebok. Either those, or anything with an ABS blade.

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09-03-2012, 05:29 PM
  #122
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Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
No sir, take a step down to the 3K Resistance or even the 2K if you want to stick with Reebok. Either those, or anything with an ABS blade.
Im actually using the 3k resistance, and find it quite nice, but i kinda needed to order some new wheels, and since the stick is pretty cheap thought i would pick it up. Any other recommendations for a cheap stick with an ABS blade?

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09-03-2012, 07:02 PM
  #123
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Easton ABS is probably the heaviest, the CCM Crossover is pretty popular and has a better (stiffer) blade with a wooden core, even though the shaft is wooden. Your 3K is actually a fiberglass shaft with an ABS blade at the end.

If you want something more durable and lighter overall and don't mind spending a little bit more, I highly recommend a shaft+blade combo. Whether you buy a cheap standard shaft or (better yet) use a broken OPS and insert ABS blades on the handle end, it will have better long-term value as instead of replacing the entire stick when the blade gives way, you only have to buy another blade.

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10-08-2012, 12:17 PM
  #124
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This may not be the correct thread to post in, but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts (advice/tips/etc) on re-curving composite blades. I'm currently using a Sher-wood stick with the Ryan curve, and I don't like the open face portion of it.

I have access to a heat gun, and a high-quality oven mitt type thing. The questions I have are:

1) Do I simply heat the blade, then bend it?
2) In order to remove the open portion of the blade, would it be best to bend in the top part of the toe, or bend out the bottom part of the toe?
3) Does this process have any adverse effect on the durability of the blade?

Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SW_Curves.JPG‎ (89.8 KB, 8 views)

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Old
10-08-2012, 01:32 PM
  #125
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Don't do it. It will break. Woven and resined composite/carbon fibers are not malleable like metal.

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