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Old
10-18-2012, 04:50 PM
  #426
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Originally Posted by Frozenice View Post
The most important change you can make to a car is upgrading the tires. I would say 90% of all problems with a car go away if you upgrade the tires.

I side with the using the brake guys. My choice would be to go down the hill a lot slower and not wait until you built up too much speed.
99,99% of your daily driving shouldn't be a problem, but on some alpine roads it is helpful. Using a lower gear shouldn't be a way to decelerate, it is a way to make sure you don't build up too much speed. The alternative is to apply your brakes slightly for an extended period of time which will lead to fading. Listen at 0:22..



The Fiesta and the Polo usually stop in less than 40 meters but in this test they need 48 and 50 meter, 25% longer braking distance.

Still, modern cars obviously have really good brakes, maintaining a moderate speed by using enginge braking wont hurt.

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10-18-2012, 05:24 PM
  #427
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Originally Posted by Joe Cole View Post
I am only trying to save you from the repair bills you are opening yourself up to here when I say, do not do this.

Not only is it inefficient, it is dangerous and will lead to premature usage of parts much more costly than brake pads.
Nothing to save here, dude. Got my 7 series with 180K km on it, drove it that way (using gears on hills year round, and very often in the winters) until 320K when I went to Japan and sold it, and never had (or needed) a single service done on the transmission. Got the Accord with under 100K on it, clicked over 200K recently and drive it the same way. Haven't had (or needed) a single service done on the transmission. Then again, I don't drop it into gears that need to wind down from 5000 RPMs while slowing my car. I guess I just don't find it hard to remember the shifting speed/RPM areas for the 2 or 3 gears that I use in my automatics after paying attention just one time pulling onto a highway.

It's far from dangerous, and experience doing it right has essentially proven you wrong on the last part. I've always spent money on quality pads and rotors (the few times I've had to), and always driven that way (in the automatics I've owned; my 5 series being a standard, for example), and I've never had a brake or transmission problem occur.

And it's not like I'm some genius maverick. People have been driving using gears in automatics out this way, especially in winter, for a looong time. It's basically taught. Then again, most people out here know better than to use cruise control (in automatics especially) in steady rain (or winter, for that matter), and other things like that, too, and I'm not sure how universal that one is either.

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10-18-2012, 05:40 PM
  #428
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Originally Posted by FlyingKostitsyn View Post
Any good, relatively cheap winter tires suggestions? I think my summer tires are still good (even if used) but I have absolutely no confidence in my garbage winter tires anymore. They are too small, very old, and were used a lot. I dunno if I should try to keep them this winter again (and I'm going to drive about 80km a day..) or simply buy a new set.


About compression - I often use it to go downhill (and that happens a lot in Qc city) and to decelerate to take highway exits. You guys pretty much convinced me to stop that. I have new brakes anyways, they should last a while I hope!
There are all kinds of tires that I would recommend based more on quality/ability: some Michelins like the X-ice or whatever, Bridgestones like the Blizzaks, or Goodyears like the UltraGrips, or even something Pirelli come to mind. Nokian anything should be considered proven by pedigree, too. But if you're talking relatively cheap? I've been surprisingly impressed with the General Altimax Arctics from Canadian Tire. They were the set on the winter rims when I got the Accord, and I replaced them with more of the same because they're relatively cheap and I've never lost confidence driving them the way I do in Nova Scotian conditions. I've certainly lost traction and had epic slides with them, but that's me having winter fun, not their fault. I get lots of kms of wear out of them too, I find, as I've had more "performance" winter tires on other cars that couldn't tolerate spending nearly as much time in use during the spring/fall warmer periods.

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10-18-2012, 08:43 PM
  #429
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Originally Posted by Ohashi_Jouzu View Post
Interesting, as the dealer never informed me of a wood trim package for my Accord, and it's not an option when "building" an Accord from their website. I've definitely never seen one, and would suspect wood veneer even if I did. But like I said, the 2012 are selling at pretty much the same price point right now. And btw, I'm pretty sure everything you listed above (and more) IS, in fact, in the list of options that I just navigated through building my 320i from the BMW site.



Nothing was "about Lexus", it's about Honda as an example of a reliable and affordable alternative to something like a BMW. I've owned both (BMW, 535 and 735, not the 320, and the Accord), so I feel I'm able to compare them, that's all. I'd still have the BMW in a heartbeat, even at a slightly higher price point. That "feel" difference is very real, and I'd recommend test driving one to at least see if you notice the difference. If you don't, you probably don't drive in a way that will take advantage of your new 271 HP, and I'd suggest saving even more money by dropping down to a similarly optioned 4-cyl model for your daily commute instead.
$47060 (without the heated S/w) versus $35290
98 more HP
better reliability record
better resale record

Don't compare your 2004 Accord with the 2013, totally new ballgame

Accord > entry level BMW at a huge discount



Edit: Looking forward to talking to you about hockey.

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10-18-2012, 08:52 PM
  #430
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Originally Posted by Agnostic View Post
$47060 (without the heated S/w) versus $35290
98 more HP
better reliability record
better resale record

Don't compare your 2004 Accord with the 2013, totally new ballgame

Accord > entry level BMW at a huge discount



Edit: Looking forward to talking to you about hockey.
Being an accord owner I like the accord love.

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10-18-2012, 09:02 PM
  #431
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Originally Posted by LyricalLyricist View Post
Being an accord owner I like the accord love.
Have you tried the 2013 Touring? I'd like to buy it but I can't make myself trade in my 2008 EX-L V6. That car is still showroom condition after 4 years.

I am also tossing around the idea if waiting until the 2014 Plug In Hybrid comes to market.

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10-18-2012, 09:04 PM
  #432
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Originally Posted by FlyingKostitsyn View Post
Any good, relatively cheap winter tires suggestions? I think my summer tires are still good (even if used) but I have absolutely no confidence in my garbage winter tires anymore. They are too small, very old, and were used a lot. I dunno if I should try to keep them this winter again (and I'm going to drive about 80km a day..) or simply buy a new set.


About compression - I often use it to go downhill (and that happens a lot in Qc city) and to decelerate to take highway exits. You guys pretty much convinced me to stop that. I have new brakes anyways, they should last a while I hope!
You should buy new ones. Even if they are ''cheap'' they'll do better than used one. They'll just either wear down faster or be a little bit less effective. But nothing beats good tires.

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Originally Posted by LyricalLyricist View Post
Being an accord owner I like the accord love.
Really really reliable, kinda luxurious. Good daily driver.

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10-18-2012, 09:08 PM
  #433
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Originally Posted by Agnostic View Post
Have you tried the 2013 Touring? I'd like to buy it but I can't make myself trade in my 2008 EX-L V6. That car is still showroom condition after 4 years.

I am also tossing around the idea if waiting until the 2014 Plug In Hybrid comes to market.
No, I haven't. I got the 2009 EX-L no v6. Wanted the v6 but this was actually my first car, I got it as a demo and in hindsight what a good and terrible decision at same time. Too much for my first car but love it, even if it's only I4.

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Originally Posted by Mrb1p View Post
Really really reliable, kinda luxurious. Good daily driver.
I never cared for racing or whatever. I put rims on it and just cruise. Makes me happy.

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10-18-2012, 09:10 PM
  #434
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Originally Posted by Agnostic View Post
Have you tried the 2013 Touring? I'd like to buy it but I can't make myself trade in my 2008 EX-L V6. That car is still showroom condition after 4 years.

I am also tossing around the idea if waiting until the 2014 Plug In Hybrid comes to market.
If I wasn't a ''race car'' guy and not so much into going fast and sliding sideways... I'd buy a Hybrid AT THE MOMENT.

But the best thing would probably to wait another 4-5 years... The price will come down faster than Cole on the wing.

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10-18-2012, 09:16 PM
  #435
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Originally Posted by Mrb1p View Post
...Are we talking about factory here ? Because that's what I tought we we're doing. Your car is not stock.

Just like a civic can follow a 911 pretty easily with money investment.

I'd be amazed to see you go against those same car, whitout the modifications.
dude no offence thats the craziest thing Ive ever heard, I dont care how much money you drop in your civic ill give you a $100,000 to start it will never come close to 911 on a track, your nuts.

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10-18-2012, 09:26 PM
  #436
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Originally Posted by e46330ivs View Post
dude no offence thats the craziest thing Ive ever heard, I dont care how much money you drop in your civic ill give you a $100,000 to start it will never come close to 911 on a track, your nuts.
Yep, that just mean's you don't know much about the car world...

With 100k you could build the fastest civic in the world . Not that I'd do it. (Seriously I wouldn't.)

I don't have a Civic by the way. I hate front wheel drives. All that torque-steer -_-

Unless it's a JCW.. Then we talking.

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10-18-2012, 09:39 PM
  #437
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Originally Posted by Mrb1p View Post
Yep, that just mean's you don't know much about the car world...

With 100k you could build the fastest civic in the world . Not that I'd do it. (Seriously I wouldn't.)

I don't have a Civic by the way. I hate front wheel drives. All that torque-steer -_-

Unless it's a JCW.. Then we talking.
are you from Texas? Yes we can take an LS9 engine upgrade the supercharger and have the fastest straightline civic in the world, but only rednecks care about the quarter mile, I DONT CARE HOW MUCH MONEY YOU PUT INTO A CIVIC IT WILL NEVER AND I MEAN NEVER BEAT A 911 ON A RACETRACK, NEVER.

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10-18-2012, 09:46 PM
  #438
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Originally Posted by LyricalLyricist View Post
No, I haven't. I got the 2009 EX-L no v6. Wanted the v6 but this was actually my first car, I got it as a demo and in hindsight what a good and terrible decision at same time. Too much for my first car but love it, even if it's only I4.



I never cared for racing or whatever. I put rims on it and just cruise. Makes me happy.
My first Accord was an I-4, just oil and gas and still going strong at 350K when I sold it privately . You got a good car.

The new EX-L V6 and Touring V6 have 278HP and are loaded, and if you check close they have actually come down in price over the past few years. Competition and the cross border market have benefited car buyers.

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10-18-2012, 10:41 PM
  #439
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Originally Posted by Mrb1p View Post
That's why they invented the heel-toe technique!
Not historically accurate but, you are right, on a manual transmission. Plus to get it right consistently, you need to be seriously slowing the car down from speeds much more aggressive than highway driving.

When you gt it right, it is like hitting a cross court backhand, or a chip from the rough into the cup.

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10-18-2012, 10:46 PM
  #440
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Originally Posted by Ohashi_Jouzu View Post
Nothing to save here, dude. Got my 7 series with 180K km on it, drove it that way (using gears on hills year round, and very often in the winters) until 320K when I went to Japan and sold it, and never had (or needed) a single service done on the transmission. Got the Accord with under 100K on it, clicked over 200K recently and drive it the same way. Haven't had (or needed) a single service done on the transmission. Then again, I don't drop it into gears that need to wind down from 5000 RPMs while slowing my car. I guess I just don't find it hard to remember the shifting speed/RPM areas for the 2 or 3 gears that I use in my automatics after paying attention just one time pulling onto a highway.

It's far from dangerous, and experience doing it right has essentially proven you wrong on the last part. I've always spent money on quality pads and rotors (the few times I've had to), and always driven that way (in the automatics I've owned; my 5 series being a standard, for example), and I've never had a brake or transmission problem occur.

And it's not like I'm some genius maverick. People have been driving using gears in automatics out this way, especially in winter, for a looong time. It's basically taught. Then again, most people out here know better than to use cruise control (in automatics especially) in steady rain (or winter, for that matter), and other things like that, too, and I'm not sure how universal that one is either.
You owe it to yourself to drive a manual because your thought process and technique are more akin to manual transmissions than autos.

The reason I say it is dangerous s if you get it wrong, the car will buck, and transfer weight from th wheels that need it, to the pair that are already doing something else.

Like heel and toe for manuals, rev matching is a practiced art. Great when u have technique, expensive in repairs when you don't.

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10-18-2012, 11:02 PM
  #441
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Hi folks,

I have a 2008 Mercedes B200 Turbo with only 41000km on it and now I have a problem with the turbo valve not being able to open which means I can't use the turbo on the car. To repair that part, it would cost me around 4500$ - 5000$ including parts and labor. The dealer is offering me a trade for a new car and they would take my car with the problem at only 5000$ or at 1 2000$ after I make the repair. Or I can do the repair and continue driving it.

Did this happen to someone else ? Which option should I go for ?

Thanks

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10-18-2012, 11:21 PM
  #442
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Originally Posted by Joe Cole View Post
You owe it to yourself to drive a manual because your thought process and technique are more akin to manual transmissions than autos.

The reason I say it is dangerous s if you get it wrong, the car will buck, and transfer weight from th wheels that need it, to the pair that are already doing something else.

Like heel and toe for manuals, rev matching is a practiced art. Great when u have technique, expensive in repairs when you don't.
But Jesus man, you have to do it reeeeeeally wrong to make the car "buck" in any significant way. Sometimes (just to hear my new air intake, or whatever), I've shifted down into my Accord's 3rd gear as soon as I hit the off ramp doing about 120, which puts it up in about the 3500-4000 RPM level. Makes a good sound, but barely makes the car shift weight at all. Slows it down nice and gradually though. Besides that, the transmission is apparently more than able to handle over 8000 RPMs, but I've never seen it go over 5000 in even my most aggressive bits of driving/acceleration. That means you'd have to dump it into 3rd doing something ridiculous like 140/150 kph to even get the kind of compression that the car gets under its own acceleration. That'd be doing it waaaaay wrong, lol. And that same third gear maintains downhill flow of traffic with consistency at speeds as low as ~60 kph (I'll occasionally use 2nd below that), making that a pretty useful gear.

And using your transmission to control speed is safer than using your brakes at all in any winter condition, btw, which is food for thought. It's a valuable skill in Canadian driving if done properly. It just happens to be fun in the summer, too, on deserted windy roads.

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10-18-2012, 11:24 PM
  #443
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Originally Posted by vinvin621 View Post
Hi folks,

I have a 2008 Mercedes B200 Turbo with only 41000km on it and now I have a problem with the turbo valve not being able to open which means I can't use the turbo on the car. To repair that part, it would cost me around 4500$ - 5000$ including parts and labor. The dealer is offering me a trade for a new car and they would take my car with the problem at only 5000$ or at 1 2000$ after I make the repair. Or I can do the repair and continue driving it.

Did this happen to someone else ? Which option should I go for ?

Thanks
Logically, repair it. If it costs 4500$-5000$ to repair it and he'll give you 7000$ for it seems logical to make him do it. After that, it's a much easier choice based on your budget and what you're looking for.

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10-18-2012, 11:35 PM
  #444
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Hi folks,

I have a 2008 Mercedes B200 Turbo with only 41000km on it and now I have a problem with the turbo valve not being able to open which means I can't use the turbo on the car. To repair that part, it would cost me around 4500$ - 5000$ including parts and labor. The dealer is offering me a trade for a new car and they would take my car with the problem at only 5000$ or at 1 2000$ after I make the repair. Or I can do the repair and continue driving it.

Did this happen to someone else ? Which option should I go for ?

Thanks
Hmm... I think if it was me, it would depend on if I could pay the $5000 out of pocket to get it done. If it only costs $5000 to make it worth $12000 to the dealer, as opposed to $5000 without service, you do it and cash in on the $2000 in gained value.

If it's something that's going to go on a credit card and get paid off eventually, I might not be as optimistic that I see as much (if any) of that $2000, and would just fix it and drive it. They seem to be nice little hatchbacks. Keep in mind that if the dealer thinks they can give you $12K, it's worth significantly more than that. That's food for thought when it comes to whether or not to sell it privately instead, or whatever, and go back to the dealer with your even bigger wad of cash. I think I still see them list for around $15K with ~100K km, so...

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10-18-2012, 11:35 PM
  #445
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Originally Posted by LyricalLyricist View Post
Logically, repair it. If it costs 4500$-5000$ to repair it and he'll give you 7000$ for it seems logical to make him do it. After that, it's a much easier choice based on your budget and what you're looking for.
Yes that is what I think too, but I'm not sure if they would be giving 1 2000$ after I make all the repairs. They would probably lower the trade in value to 9000$ - 1 1000$.

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10-18-2012, 11:40 PM
  #446
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Originally Posted by Ohashi_Jouzu View Post
Hmm... I think if it was me, it would depend on if I could pay the $5000 out of pocket to get it done. If it only costs $5000 to make it worth $12000 to the dealer, as opposed to $5000 without service, you do it and cash in on the $2000 in gained value.

If it's something that's going to go on a credit card and get paid off eventually, I might not be as optimistic that I see as much (if any) of that $2000, and would just fix it and drive it. They seem to be nice little hatchbacks. Keep in mind that if the dealer thinks they can give you $12K, it's worth significantly more than that. That's food for thought when it comes to whether or not to sell it privately instead, or whatever, and go back to the dealer with your even bigger wad of cash. I think I still see them list for around $15K with ~100K km, so...
Is it easy to resell a car privately? I heard buyers would waste your time and they would wanna try the car and step on the gas and finally say they are not interested. I think I have to insure the buyer for 3 months after the transaction or something like that.

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10-18-2012, 11:42 PM
  #447
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Yes that is what I think too, but I'm not sure if they would be giving 1 2000$ after I make all the repairs. They would probably lower the trade in value to 9000$ - 1 1000$.
Maybe, but IF you do intend to trade in, if he switches the story around walk away and say you'll buy elsewhere.

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10-18-2012, 11:52 PM
  #448
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Hey guys, in my last post I was debating a 09 rabbit or 10 Corolla XRS. I was inches away from buying the XRS until I called my insurance. Turns out it's not easy to insure an under 25 male with a DUI on record and a license suspension...

Only two companies were willing to take a chance on me, one for 440$ a month, the other for 325$ a month.

Needless to say thats out of the question, so I began looking for a car to insure 1 way only (3 grand or less). Found this nice little 02 Sentra SE-R Spec V for a decent price. Hand brake doesn't work, it revs high, but it's only got 145,000KM. He is asking 3000$ for it.

What do you guys think?

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10-18-2012, 11:59 PM
  #449
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Hey guys, in my last post I was debating a 09 rabbit or 10 Corolla XRS. I was inches away from buying the XRS until I called my insurance. Turns out it's not easy to insure an under 25 male with a DUI on record and a license suspension...

Only two companies were willing to take a chance on me, one for 440$ a month, the other for 325$ a month.

Needless to say thats out of the question, so I began looking for a car to insure 1 way only (3 grand or less). Found this nice little 02 Sentra SE-R Spec V for a decent price. Hand brake doesn't work, it revs high, but it's only got 145,000KM. He is asking 3000$ for it.

What do you guys think?
Don't feel so bad, my friend got caught DUI like 4 times. He's an idiot but also hilarious as he was like 3 blocks away from his house 2 of those times.

He decided not to touch a car anymore. I think he hasn't driven in 4 years.

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10-19-2012, 01:39 AM
  #450
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Originally Posted by e46330ivs View Post
dude no offence thats the craziest thing Ive ever heard, I dont care how much money you drop in your civic ill give you a $100,000 to start it will never come close to 911 on a track, your nuts.
Depends on the track.
If you slap R-tires on a Civic Type-R vs a stock 911 on a slow, twichy track, the Honda will be close, or maybe even faster.

On a high speed track the Porsche will obviously be faster.

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