3000km is extreme exaggeration in a modern car using synthetic. 5000km is an exaggeration already, and totally not necessary. Am I an expert? Nope, but I'm someone who's actively researched this subject and has enough testimonies from friends in the auto mechanics business to know. I change mine whenever it's convenient beyond 8000km, usually somewhere around 10000, though I could go more and still be completely OK, even for longevity. There is some difference between vehicles, and obviously what I'm saying applies to newer cars using synthetic. A few links to help people in this thread:
See, for my 2007 VW GTI it recommends 5000 miles, which is 8000 kms. VW reps themselves have told me I can comfortably go beyond that without any issue now, or in the future. For my gf's 2005 Civic the number is 10000. Obviously conditions will affect this, such as what type of driving you do normally, and in what weather. City driving in Winter here in Quebec should be treated differently than, say, Summer driving in the suburbs. I'll change more frequently in Winter, and definitely once right before the cold hits, and once as it starts getting warmer. I just know a bunch of you are gonna argue this no matter what proof I post. Please don't bother. Let those who want to benefit from the info do so, and feel free to continue spending your money and knowing the truth as you see fit.
In a dodge intrepid 2.7L, synthetic and oil change every 3000km is pretty much madatory unelss u want your engine sludged up.
My DD is a highly modded Regal GS 2002, I do 3000km changes on it, knowing I could easily go to 5000km+ as this engine is bulletproof, but, I don't care, it's a good investment anyway you look at it.
I've been wondering; my car is set to have an oil change at 110 000 KM (currently at 109 500) but just under the little sticker they put on your windshield, it's written September 2012. Now, it was there before I bought the car (August) so it means it is a date to change the oil, not the date the oil change has been made... So my question is; do I have to change my oil strictly because of the date? It sounds stupid to me, but it doesn't hurt to ask I guess .
Funny enough, there was a period where mechanical odometers could be rolled backwards - but it actually came after a time when you couldn't, lol. I believe most 50s models (for example) counted miles traveled in reverse as "normal" miles, i.e. if your odometer read 100 miles, and you drove backwards for 10 miles, it would come back reading 110. Now, in the early 60s (with mechanical worm gear odometers) I know that there were lots of complaints about "odometer fraud" (hook up a drill, go to town!), so somewhere in here is the turning point. As soon as cars started using ECUs, though (1980/81+ for GM, I think), magnets created the signals that actuated the odometer. And without getting into it too deeply, magnets don't care if you induce current forwards or backwards, so no rollback is possible.
I guess I assumed that most people aren't driving anything that pre-dates Roy's first Cup win with the Habs.
I've been wondering; my car is set to have an oil change at 110 000 KM (currently at 109 500) but just under the little sticker they put on your windshield, it's written September 2012. Now, it was there before I bought the car (August) so it means it is a date to change the oil, not the date the oil change has been made... So my question is; do I have to change my oil strictly because of the date? It sounds stupid to me, but it doesn't hurt to ask I guess .
Not a stupid question..
It depends what oil it is.. regular or synthetic.
Synthetic will last a helluva lot longer than the non-synthetic oils.
It is unlikely that your oil goes bad before you reach the interval you need change it... even when I stored my car in winter last year.. it was perfectly fine to drive for awhile in the spring before changing it.
That said, did u check your oil? what color is it?
If it's very dark/black, you should go ahead and change it asap.
Synthetic will last a helluva lot longer than the non-synthetic oils.
It is unlikely that your oil goes bad before you reach the interval you need change it... even when I stored my car in winter last year.. it was perfectly fine to drive for awhile in the spring before changing it.
That said, did u check your oil? what color is it?
If it's very dark/black, you should go ahead and change it asap.
Alright, thanks for the quick reply. I'll check that out tomorrow.
In a dodge intrepid 2.7L, synthetic and oil change every 3000km is pretty much madatory unelss u want your engine sludged up.
My DD is a highly modded Regal GS 2002, I do 3000km changes on it, knowing I could easily go to 5000km+ as this engine is bulletproof, but, I don't care, it's a good investment anyway you look at it.
i owned a 2.7L Intrepid. Gave it away for a Tim's coffee after the second engine went. You could change the engine oil daily and it would have been the same piece of engineered garbage.
What's your age group . After all these years of driving I have known Regal owners to be just above Buick Century owners as most likely to be above 60 years old. i.e most likely to respect car maintenance.
i owned a 2.7L Intrepid. Gave it away for a Tim's coffee after the second engine went. You could change the engine oil daily and it would have been the same piece of engineered garbage.
What's your age group . After all these years of driving I have known Regal owners to be just above Buick Century owners as most likely to be above 60 years old. i.e most likely to respect car maintenance.
I just turned 25.
The Intrepid has 166,000km, it was my mom's car, now it's pretty much the family 'beater' car. We almost sold it last winter because we thought it had finally died... but no, just needed a crankshaft position sensor.
Actually, there are a lot of 2.7L's with high mileage out there, you would be very surprised.
The Regal, although usually looks sedate.. mine is blacked out, rims, tails, headlights, modified exhaust, engine, intake, etc. It looks and sound more like the buicks from the 1980's than a new model 'Century'..
The Intrepid has 166,000km, it was my mom's car, now it's pretty much the family 'beater' car. We almost sold it last winter because we thought it had finally died... but no, just needed a crankshaft position sensor.
Actually, there are a lot of 2.7L's with high mileage out there, you would be very surprised.
The Regal, although usually looks sedate.. mine is blacked out, rims, tails, headlights, modified exhaust, engine, intake, etc. It looks and sound more like the buicks from the 1980's than a new model 'Century'..
If you go to www.carcomplaints.com and look at the worst vehicles of all time, the Intrepids with the 2.7L engine are all there. If you look at the worst engine failure complaints I lived through that... despite good oil maintenance habits.
This is why I am fascinated by the oil change discussion. I have owned the 1998 Intrepid which just had a poorly engineered engine which quit despite fresh oil. / Needed a new engine twice.
Then there is my brother, who is tight with the money to say the least, and he buys new cars and runs them to end-of-life while NEVER CHANGING THE OIL. He laughs that he "tops it up once in a while" but to my knowledge has never had an engine failure in all his years of car ownership (he's much older than I am at 59). I know that poor maintenance can lead to horsepower loss but does anyone care that their 10 year old car loses 20 ponies.
It has me thinking about how big a racket the lube business is and whether I should just run my cars to the ground and save money.
So in the car engineering vs car care argument I don't think it's a slam dunk. My brother vs. my Intrepid is always on my mind.
Having said that I maintain my oil schedule and call it a good investment.
I spent $240 on a NAVMAN GPS two weeks ago, and the suction cup keeps falling off the windshield. What do I do?
The best tip I found online is to spit into the suction cup, to apply moisture. Any other ideas?
Clean your window with windex and wash your suction cup and let both dry. Put moisture on your finger and circle it around the inner part of the cup, then stick it on with force.
I've been wondering; my car is set to have an oil change at 110 000 KM (currently at 109 500) but just under the little sticker they put on your windshield, it's written September 2012. Now, it was there before I bought the car (August) so it means it is a date to change the oil, not the date the oil change has been made... So my question is; do I have to change my oil strictly because of the date? It sounds stupid to me, but it doesn't hurt to ask I guess .
Never a bad idea to change the oil. I watched it come out a few times where it still looked new, but there was all the little pieces of crap that get in there. Good idea to get them out of the engine.
The date is just a 3mo/5000KM thing.
It is the best $20-30 you will spend on your car every 90days.
The Intrepid has 166,000km, it was my mom's car, now it's pretty much the family 'beater' car. We almost sold it last winter because we thought it had finally died... but no, just needed a crankshaft position sensor.
Actually, there are a lot of 2.7L's with high mileage out there, you would be very surprised.
The Regal, although usually looks sedate.. mine is blacked out, rims, tails, headlights, modified exhaust, engine, intake, etc. It looks and sound more like the buicks from the 1980's than a new model 'Century'..
yeah he's probably got the 3.8 supercharged, you get the smaller pulley on the charger and reflash of the ecm and those cars are stupid fast, for a Regal I guess. After storing for the winter you should always change the oil, moisture in the oil is not good, I dont care what it looks like. And Agnostic, theres certain things you have to do, brakes, balljoints, tie rods, just dont get sucked into flushing anything on the vehicle, except the coolant every 5 or so years, minor leaks can usually be monitored over a long period sometimes.
If you go to www.carcomplaints.com and look at the worst vehicles of all time, the Intrepids with the 2.7L engine are all there. If you look at the worst engine failure complaints I lived through that... despite good oil maintenance habits.
This is why I am fascinated by the oil change discussion. I have owned the 1998 Intrepid which just had a poorly engineered engine which quit despite fresh oil. / Needed a new engine twice.
Then there is my brother, who is tight with the money to say the least, and he buys new cars and runs them to end-of-life while NEVER CHANGING THE OIL. He laughs that he "tops it up once in a while" but to my knowledge has never had an engine failure in all his years of car ownership (he's much older than I am at 59). I know that poor maintenance can lead to horsepower loss but does anyone care that their 10 year old car loses 20 ponies.
It has me thinking about how big a racket the lube business is and whether I should just run my cars to the ground and save money.
So in the car engineering vs car care argument I don't think it's a slam dunk. My brother vs. my Intrepid is always on my mind.
Having said that I maintain my oil schedule and call it a good investment.
yeah he's probably got the 3.8 supercharged, you get the smaller pulley on the charger and reflash of the ecm and those cars are stupid fast, for a Regal I guess. After storing for the winter you should always change the oil, moisture in the oil is not good, I dont care what it looks like. And Agnostic, theres certain things you have to do, brakes, balljoints, tie rods, just dont get sucked into flushing anything on the vehicle, except the coolant every 5 or so years, minor leaks can usually be monitored over a long period sometimes.
Yes, I didn't drive it hard at all, until I had the oil changed and a bunch of other stuff done.
Yes you can make very impressive power gains but when you go Turbo, is where you can really make some SERIOUS power with these engines.. 500+hp
If you go to www.carcomplaints.com and look at the worst vehicles of all time, the Intrepids with the 2.7L engine are all there. If you look at the worst engine failure complaints I lived through that... despite good oil maintenance habits.
This is why I am fascinated by the oil change discussion. I have owned the 1998 Intrepid which just had a poorly engineered engine which quit despite fresh oil. / Needed a new engine twice.
Then there is my brother, who is tight with the money to say the least, and he buys new cars and runs them to end-of-life while NEVER CHANGING THE OIL. He laughs that he "tops it up once in a while" but to my knowledge has never had an engine failure in all his years of car ownership (he's much older than I am at 59). I know that poor maintenance can lead to horsepower loss but does anyone care that their 10 year old car loses 20 ponies.
It has me thinking about how big a racket the lube business is and whether I should just run my cars to the ground and save money.
So in the car engineering vs car care argument I don't think it's a slam dunk. My brother vs. my Intrepid is always on my mind.
Having said that I maintain my oil schedule and call it a good investment.
"WARNING SIGNS THAT YOUR ENGINE WILL FAIL:
1. Problems with the heater not blowing hot air consistently.
2. Engine starting on fire.
3. Sludge build-up in the timing chain compartment. Oil changes will NOT fix this problem.
SOME OWNERS HAVE FOUND OUT THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST USE A SYNTHETIC OIL CAPABLE OF WITHSTANDING HIGH TEMPERATURES IN ORDER FOR YOUR ENGINE NOT TO FAIL. CHRYSLER DIDN'T TELL US THIS. NEITHER DID OUR DEALER."
Never a bad idea to change the oil. I watched it come out a few times where it still looked new, but there was all the little pieces of crap that get in there. Good idea to get them out of the engine.
The date is just a 3mo/5000KM thing.
It is the best $20-30 you will spend on your car every 90days.
Yes, I didn't drive it hard at all, until I had the oil changed and a bunch of other stuff done.
Yes you can make very impressive power gains but when you go Turbo, is where you can really make some SERIOUS power with these engines.. 500+hp
Yeah but thats a big waste of money the gains you get from the turbo compared to what you already get from $250.00 on the pulley n ecm arent worth the headaches of a turbo setup, the block can handle the power but im not sure the rest of the car can.
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