The RinkFor the not so ready for prime-time players, coaches, referees, and the people that have to live with them. Discuss experiences in local leagues, coaching tips, equipment, and training.
- have the puck at the heel, mid-heel at most
- slightly cup the puck in the shooting motion
- you don't have to use the rocker as much as, say, a P92
- the puck should follow the length of the blade and release near the toe, mid-toe
- this curve isn't open enough that you should choke up on your follow through, neither is it closed enough that you should really open up your blade...somewhere in between?
- have the puck at the heel, mid-heel at most
- slightly cup the puck in the shooting motion
- you don't have to use the rocker as much as, say, a P92
- the puck should follow the length of the blade and release near the toe, mid-toe
- this curve isn't open enough that you should choke up on your follow through, neither is it closed enough that you should really open up your blade...somewhere in between?
I did notice I had to adjust in my use of the entire blade with the curve. I found that I was slicing on a lot of shots because I don't cup as much with the P14. but When i did get a good one off it was really nice and true, so with practice it may become my number 1 stick. thanks for the tips!
My brother is 13... turning 14 in March, but he's small. 5 feet tall and maybe 100 pounds. He's looking to buy a stick so he asked me to grab one from work. My problem is I'm at a loss for what size stick to get him. He's using a junior Ai5 and he likes it. I grabbed him a junior x60 but he says it feels too skinny and is just barely long enough for him (which are both true). However... he's no where near big enough for an intermediate and with the amount we'd have to cut it he'd lose essentially any flex in the stick... a 70~ flex would also be way too stiff for him. The 50 flex on his Ai5 is perfect.
So I feel bad that his new stick feels like a "kids" stick but at the same time I think getting him an intermediate would limit his play drastically. Am I right thinking this? Or should I grab him an intermediate and cut it down drastically instead?
The initial flex would be fine, but it would have to be cut majorly so the flex would jump way up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE
If you want a thicker junior shaft size, look at Reebok or Easton. Vapors are notoriously thin (though it works for those kids with smaller hands).
Yeah he's using a junior Ai5 now so he's used to the thicker shaft. He doesn't have a clue though other than how a stick looks even though I try to tell him these things.
I would stick with the Ai5, Ai7, or Ai9. If it's a bit short for him stock, get a wood plug. You may have to sand/file/shave it to size and chop off the excess.
Intermediates are likely going to be to stiff for him until he's 5'3 or taller. I'm 5'7 and chop off 3-4" off intermediate sticks...at 5' I'd be lopping off nearly a foot. Way too much stick to lose.
Another option is Miken which makes those Accuflex sticks. They have a lot of flex and length options for those who are between junior and intermediate sticks. Maybe a 45 or 55 flex?
Ai5 isn't even too small, they're only looking into another stick for a backup in the case his breaks (which he thinks it's going to) during an upcoming tournament.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick
I would stick with the Ai5, Ai7, or Ai9. If it's a bit short for him stock, get a wood plug. You may have to sand/file/shave it to size and chop off the excess.
Intermediates are likely going to be to stiff for him until he's 5'3 or taller. I'm 5'7 and chop off 3-4" off intermediate sticks...at 5' I'd be lopping off nearly a foot. Way too much stick to lose.
Another option is Miken which makes those Accuflex sticks. They have a lot of flex and length options for those who are between junior and intermediate sticks. Maybe a 45 or 55 flex?
He practiced with the vapor and hated it (which didn't surprise me) but he wanted an N12 which I knew is going to feel the same for a junior or is way too big for an intermediate/senior. Thankfully after I told him this he finally listened and said he'd just get another Ai5 so hopefully that's that.
Oh and the Miken thing is a good idea but he's an idiot and wants "sexy" sticks. Only thing he asked when I told him some options was "what do they look like?". His Ai5 now was a christmas present from me 2 christmas' ago that he's loved.
Picked out a new stick today, $21 a Reebok 2 K crosby(I decided on less of a curve). The guy at the shop said you won't notice the difference between the cheapo ones and super expensive ones unless you are a really elite player(which I am not)
That guy's either dumb or lying. You can certainly tell the difference between sticks. If you can lift a puck off the ice, you're ready for a $100 hockey stick.
Can you take it back? The 2k stick is not for ice hockey, it's for playing with a tennis ball out in the street.
Picked out a new stick today, $21 a Reebok 2 K crosby(I decided on less of a curve). The guy at the shop said you won't notice the difference between the cheapo ones and super expensive ones unless you are a really elite player(which I am not)
I am not an elite player, but I DEFINITELY notice a difference between a $21 stick and a $100 stick. Even the difference between a $50 and $100 stick is black and white. Cheap sticks are heavy, have weird balance, vibrate (sometimes painfully!), twist, and will just generally get in between you and your skill development. If your wrist shots are wobbling you want to know it is your technique and not the stick.
That said, I cannot tell a significant difference at my level between a $100 stick and a $200+ stick.
I don't think there's hard and fast rule on this stuff, but even as a beginner I would be looking in the $100 range (or better yet, sticks that retail for that but are on sale/clearance). For me and a lot of people I play with, that is the sweet spot between affordability, durability, and quality.
Does anyone know where I can still get my hands on aluminum Easton sticks? Preferably the silver Gretzky model? I don't like the feel of composite, because they feel flimsy, and wood is a little to heavy for my tastes.
Oh, and I wholeheartedly agree with Jarick's $100 stick comment.
Yea, I use a 2k for roller and it's great for that.
But I use a Supreme One60, and it's VASTLY different from the Reebok. I couldn't believe how light it was when I first held it compared to the 2k and 3k I use.
Does anyone know where I can still get my hands on aluminum Easton sticks? Preferably the silver Gretzky model? I don't like the feel of composite, because they feel flimsy, and wood is a little to heavy for my tastes.
I'll check ebay, didn't even think of that. Anyone know how reliable they are for actually giving good sticks though? I know the last Easton I bought online ended up being already dented pretty badly near the bottom of the shaft, and that really screws with the integrity of the stick.
Probably won't be a big deal for me this year as I'm not playing right now, but I've been wanting to get back again soon, but I broke my last aluminum just screwing around on an outdoor rink a few weeks back (my own dumb fault, it was way to cold to bring that stick out) and it's been tough to find them since I was in high school. Even when I was playing Midget I usually had to dig around in the back room of sports stores to find new shafts when I needed one.
Has anyone noticed the amount of RS II's that are in the nhl right now?
You mean paintjobs? New paintjobs are applied in accordance with a stick release.
Quote:
Originally Posted by molsonmuscle360
I'll check ebay, didn't even think of that. Anyone know how reliable they are for actually giving good sticks though? I know the last Easton I bought online ended up being already dented pretty badly near the bottom of the shaft, and that really screws with the integrity of the stick.
Probably won't be a big deal for me this year as I'm not playing right now, but I've been wanting to get back again soon, but I broke my last aluminum just screwing around on an outdoor rink a few weeks back (my own dumb fault, it was way to cold to bring that stick out) and it's been tough to find them since I was in high school. Even when I was playing Midget I usually had to dig around in the back room of sports stores to find new shafts when I needed one.
Thanks for the advice.
Reliability? That would be random, no?
Ebay, the site, is a marketplace; they don't sell you things. The people in it do.
My Sherwood 950, in a Spezza pattern, is getting all chipped up at the tip. I think I'm going to jump to a composite blade from the wood ones I've been using since I started back up last summer, since I've finally settled on that pattern for ice.
Has anybody used a Bandito blade? Any thoughts on it? I'm thinking of picking one up in the Kovalchuk pattern from purehockey since it's $35. It would be going in a AK27 shaft, just on the slim chance someone has actually used this combo before.
I've also read that Warriors lies are usually .5"-1.5" greater than what they actually say. So the 4" Kov pattern is really more like a 5", if anyone has used the Kov pattern, is that true?
My Sherwood 950, in a Spezza pattern, is getting all chipped up at the tip. I think I'm going to jump to a composite blade from the wood ones I've been using since I started back up last summer, since I've finally settled on that pattern for ice.
Has anybody used a Bandito blade? Any thoughts on it? I'm thinking of picking one up in the Kovalchuk pattern from purehockey since it's $35. It would be going in a AK27 shaft, just on the slim chance someone has actually used this combo before.
I've also read that Warriors lies are usually .5"-1.5" greater than what they actually say. So the 4" Kov pattern is really more like a 5", if anyone has used the Kov pattern, is that true?
The Bandito is a very decent mid-end standard blade.
The lie numbers are misleading as every company measure their lies differently. See if you can ignore them and gauge by curve equivalence and simply 'eyeballing' it. The Kovalchuk is similar to the P88 Kane from Bauer, P40 Hedman from Reebok etc.etc. Check out Jarick's curve chart or the curve database on MSH.
I've been using an Easton Iginla. If the Iginla is a true 5.5 lie, i'd like to trie a true 6 lie. Should I go with a ops p106 or a shaft and blade combo p88? Thank you.
Neither. If you want that feeling of a slightly higher lie, try a Getzlaf/Lidstrom, even a P92. Heck honestly, for that small of a change, just extend your stick length a little.
Base/Harrow have many different options for curves and have several lie options for the most popular ones.
