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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice

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02-28-2013, 10:54 AM
  #401
mistrhanky
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So, I am a very novice player(have only played about 6 months) and recently made the change from forward to defenseman. I am a big dude... 6'4", 235. I am thinking of selling off my backup stick and getting a more defense oriented curve. I currently use a Warrior Dolo draper curve. What I really want it a nice long stick(that sounds terrible, I know), a square toe, and a 5 lie. I find the lie to be very comfortable for me, so I really would like to maintain that. Any particular recommendations for a D man? Emphasis on blocking shots and playing along the boards. That is the primary driver here.. I am terrible at picking the puck off the boards and feel like a square toe would really be a help. My slapper sucks... but eventually, I would obviously like to develop it.

Any help appreciated.

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02-28-2013, 11:31 AM
  #402
Jarick
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Curves don't necessarily have to match up with your position. A lot of defensemen use Drury clones which are wide open or Sakic curves which are like the Draper.

Is there something you want to accomplish by changing curves? I.e. better puck control, keeping shots lower, changing the lie, etc?

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02-28-2013, 11:41 AM
  #403
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Yeah, actually I don't want to change much at all. I really like the Draper because it is a pretty mild curve and I can handle passes on my backhand better with it. I really would like the same basic pattern/lie but with the square toe. What would come closest to that? Eventually, as I develop a slapper, I would like a stick that is good for that... but realistically, that is a long way off for me.

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03-03-2013, 04:16 PM
  #404
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Any thoughts on the RBK 9K? I currently have an Ai5 in the Datsyuk curve, love the curve but I seem to be able to get a shot off quicker and harder with my Easton 65S but the curve isn't my favorite (cammy/PM9), I think its the flex profile difference that I like. I hardly take slap shots, most of my game is wristers and snap shots.

9K is currently on clearance, was thinking about picking it up.

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03-03-2013, 04:50 PM
  #405
AIREAYE
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Great high end stick; quite underrated. It will play a little stiffer than rated though, see if you can try your current flex as well as one lower before buying.

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03-04-2013, 04:36 AM
  #406
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I have a history/evolution question for those who've been closer to the stick industry than I have over the past 20 years or so:

Which current Easton blade design is most similar to the old Roenick blade?

I know I could just compare blades to find out, but, alas, my Roenick blade broke over a decade ago. Any help would be much appreciated.

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03-04-2013, 09:32 AM
  #407
AIREAYE
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Blade design? Do you mean curve?

What Roenick blade? His pro stock blade or a retail blade with his name on it indicating curve?

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03-04-2013, 12:03 PM
  #408
Jarick
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From what I can tell, the old Roenick was either similar to a Lidstrom (open heel with a square toe) or a Heatley (neutral mid) depending on the year. His pro curve was either close to a P106 (open heel) or Drury (very open heel).

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03-04-2013, 05:02 PM
  #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Blade design? Do you mean curve?

What Roenick blade? His pro stock blade or a retail blade with his name on it indicating curve?
Yes, I mean curve, but used the term "blade design" to encompass curve, toe shape, and lie (but I suppose that might vary). And I was referring to a retail blade with his name on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
From what I can tell, the old Roenick was either similar to a Lidstrom (open heel with a square toe) or a Heatley (neutral mid) depending on the year. His pro curve was either close to a P106 (open heel) or Drury (very open heel).
Thanks Jarick, I'll take a look at some of those this evening. I'm very certain the one I had didn't have a square toe, though.

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03-04-2013, 07:20 PM
  #410
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Picked up a barely used (no visible scratches, chips, dents) Bauer APX for $90. Steal or no steal?

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03-04-2013, 11:04 PM
  #411
West Coast Eagles
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Disclaimer: on my phone so i apologise for spelling and formaT

I am just starting out (as a 29 year old) but have played other sports and reasonable levels. Anyways my question relates to equipment in particular but specifically sticks. I have just started skating lessons and seem to be going pretty well (progressing faster than anyone else) but still am ordinary. Accordingly I thought I would get a pair of skates to start with, only problem is being in Australia they are sooo much cheaper overseas. Easton eq20's are 200 here, 80 bucks plus shipping online. This sort of difference in price is consistent with pretty much every piece of equipment as far as I am aware of. Therefore it makes much more sense for me to lump everything into one big parcel to save on postage. With that being said, how the hell do I know what stick I should get?

In the equipment thread Jarik mentioned a various number of sticks for beginners. I have found all of them online at prices I am prepared to pay but what flex, lie etc. Would be a good starting point? I am a touch of 6 foot and have strong arms but I think my wrist strength is actually pretty poor (never played any wristy sports). My plan is to get a CCM crossover wood senior stick, right/Thornton and also a CCM RBZ60 sr right/85/tavares. I can get these for a 140.

Considering the situation what do you think of my plan?

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03-04-2013, 11:42 PM
  #412
West Coast Eagles
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^Other stick I am considering is a warrior Diablo right/75/savard. Can get it for a bit cheaper than the rbz

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03-05-2013, 09:25 AM
  #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisbane sens fan View Post
In the equipment thread Jarik mentioned a various number of sticks for beginners. I have found all of them online at prices I am prepared to pay but what flex, lie etc. Would be a good starting point? I am a touch of 6 foot and have strong arms but I think my wrist strength is actually pretty poor (never played any wristy sports).

Considering the situation what do you think of my plan?
If you want to work on wrist strength, Olympic lifting, handstands and ring work will do wonders!

Try out a P92 (Bauer) or Hall (Easton) curve with a 75 or 87 flex. I find the curve is good for learning stick handling and is a good all around curve. I think the curve is called Draper in Warrior? Not sure about CCM. Make sure you cut it down between your bottom lip and chin!

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03-05-2013, 09:39 AM
  #414
Jarick
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Where are you ordering from?

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03-05-2013, 09:51 AM
  #415
AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esidebill View Post
If you want to work on wrist strength, Olympic lifting, handstands and ring work will do wonders!

Try out a P92 (Bauer) or Hall (Easton) curve with a 75 or 87 flex. I find the curve is good for learning stick handling and is a good all around curve. I think the curve is called Draper in Warrior? Not sure about CCM. Make sure you cut it down between your bottom lip and chin!
Kopitar now in Warrior, used to be Draper. Nugent-Hopkins in CCM, Crosby in Reebok.

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03-05-2013, 10:23 AM
  #416
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Welp, I decided to order a Warrior Dynasty 75 flex with the kovalev curve and grip, pretty much on a whim. Hopefully i'll have an easier time scoring and picking corners with this than my rbk 8.0.8 hamrlik curve 85 flex. Totally flying blind here

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03-05-2013, 05:25 PM
  #417
West Coast Eagles
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Thanks for the replies.

Jarik-ordering from hockey monkey. Seems to be the cheapest for the stuff I want

Eside-thanks for the advice, I could get a warrior Diablo with kopitar/draper curve. Its around 85bucks on hovkeymonkey


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03-06-2013, 05:41 AM
  #418
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Hey,
I got a chance to pick up the Warrior Johnson for cheap. Any thoughts on that stick?

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03-06-2013, 10:41 AM
  #419
Jarick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisbane sens fan View Post
Thanks for the replies.

Jarik-ordering from hockey monkey. Seems to be the cheapest for the stuff I want

Eside-thanks for the advice, I could get a warrior Diablo with kopitar/draper curve. Its around 85bucks on hovkeymonkey
How long have you been playing? Are there any hockey shops around you? Do they carry replacement stick blades?

I'd be inclined to recommend getting a shaft with a couple different blades, but if you want a high end stick the Diablo is a good one. Otherwise I'd recommend tapered Warrior Dolomite shaft and a few Easton wood blades for the same price, you could try out some different curves that way.

Quote:
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Hey,
I got a chance to pick up the Warrior Johnson for cheap. Any thoughts on that stick?
If it's more than $25, skip it. Heavy, bad feel, just not a good stick.

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03-06-2013, 04:43 PM
  #420
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broke my AK the other day... sucks. i bought it because it felt unreal in the store, absolutely hated it on ice. bought a new stick within a month. decided to give it a shot in ball hockey, my favourite stick ive ever used for ball hockey. not sure if i should buy another or not

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03-07-2013, 07:50 PM
  #421
Puck Farise
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Anyone use a P106 and have advice for keeping slappers low? I love everything else about the curve. Good puck control, can keep hard wrist shots low, great saucer passes...but I'm blasting head hunters when it comes to slapshots. Even when I'm just taking shots on my own, and focusing on keeping them low, a "low" shot is roughly 2-2.5 feet high.

When I'm mid-game and don't have the time to focus on keeping it low, I'm ripping head hunters all over the place.

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03-07-2013, 08:01 PM
  #422
AIREAYE
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Turn your wrists down and choke up on your follow through.

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03-07-2013, 08:48 PM
  #423
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Quick question, if this isn't suitable for this thread, I'd appreciate some directions to the proper thread: I'm currently rolling with an Easton EQ50 with a Getzlaf curve. I really like the curve and square toe, it's great for sauce and snap shots, and not bad on slappers, which is a good combination as I play both D and wing. That being said, I've shredded through the bottom portion of the toe on this one, it's terribly chipped. So, my question:

Is there anything that can be done to keep a square toe in good shape? My tape job is pretty solid, a stretch of tape that goes heel to midway up the toe, and taped all the way toe to heel, cutting off the excess on the toe, so I'm not sure of what else to do to protect it more. If there's no way to prevent the toe from getting crushed so badly, what would be the closest relative to the Getzlaf curve (any brand) only with a rounded toe? Thanks, guys.

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03-08-2013, 03:52 AM
  #424
Ted Black
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How long do hockey sticks last you guys? And I'm not talking about how long before it breaks in the conventional way, but how long till it loses its flex?

I've had my Sherwood T90 for I think about two years now and I can't go top shelf anymore. Although it's never been that easy for me with this stick (odd) it seems like it's a lot worse now. I almost think it might be the blade torquing out on me. I've heard guys talk about this before, but is a true phenomenon?... and can someone further explain the physics behind this? I don't want to buy a new stick if it's not the stick, but something is off. It could be me too though, haha.

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03-08-2013, 05:54 AM
  #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Black View Post
How long do hockey sticks last you guys? And I'm not talking about how long before it breaks in the conventional way, but how long till it loses its flex?

I've had my Sherwood T90 for I think about two years now and I can't go top shelf anymore. Although it's never been that easy for me with this stick (odd) it seems like it's a lot worse now. I almost think it might be the blade torquing out on me. I've heard guys talk about this before, but is a true phenomenon?... and can someone further explain the physics behind this? I don't want to buy a new stick if it's not the stick, but something is off. It could be me too though, haha.
My AI5 lasted 6 months before the blade got soft and the shaft is like wet noodle now. Same with my One.9, four months and it's useless now.

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