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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice

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Old
03-16-2013, 09:24 PM
  #451
AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Garrity View Post
Thank you for the advice.

I decided to splurge(thanks tax return!), and went with an INT 77 flex Bauer Supreme NXG (about 1/2 an inch short for me) with a Supreme NXG blade(P2). Got out there tonight, absolutely love the stick. Feels a bit blade heavy, but not even close to being unbearable, although I might try a lighter blade on the next go around(I don't know if there is a lighter one). Puckhandling and passing was amazing, shot was a bit wobbly at times , but I think that is more on the user than the stick.
Hope it lasts for you man. I would never ever recommend buying something like that lol.

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03-16-2013, 11:23 PM
  #452
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Can someone explain the differences between the CCM RBZ and the lower model RBZ60?

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03-17-2013, 12:26 AM
  #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaintTavares View Post
Since the summer, I've been using Reebok 2k and 3k blades for roller hockey, and find them really enjoyable. I probably use my 3k stick more often than my 2k, nice composite stick with an abs blade for a really good price. Its pretty durable too, I usually play 1-2 times a week since the summer, and I'm only on my second 3k stick.
I used to use the 3K stick and had a setup with a 6k shaft and 2k blade. I always felt the blade was flimsy on my 2 piece setup, if that makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Hope it lasts for you man. I would never ever recommend buying something like that lol.
Me too. Not too worried either way, the way I looked at is that I was spending "free money". Thanks again for your advice.

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03-17-2013, 12:37 AM
  #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Garrity View Post
I used to use the 3K stick and had a setup with a 6k shaft and 2k blade. I always felt the blade was flimsy on my 2 piece setup, if that makes sense.
.
No, I hear you. I use my 3k stick, but my backup is a Easton EQ10 shaft which I cut off the blade and put a 2k blade on it. It was a bit flimsy and had to wrap some tape around it, but that seemed to do the trick. I like the way it feels and its real durable.

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03-17-2013, 03:49 AM
  #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaintTavares View Post
No, I hear you. I use my 3k stick, but my backup is a Easton EQ10 shaft which I cut off the blade and put a 2k blade on it. It was a bit flimsy and had to wrap some tape around it, but that seemed to do the trick. I like the way it feels and its real durable.
I bought my 6K when it was the top of the line and loved that shaft. Unfortunately, it broke hence my post about the recent Miken I bought, and went through in a month, and the now Bauer I got. After my 6K, I've become a snob about sticks/shafts/blades etc. so I decided to go with a top flight shaft again. I play my first game, which is on sportcourt as opposed to smooth concrete which I frequent, tomorrow. Needless to say, I've planned the parade for my "free" T-shirt already.

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03-17-2013, 09:37 AM
  #456
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Originally Posted by JaeTM View Post
Can someone explain the differences between the CCM RBZ and the lower model RBZ60?
Weight, quality and feel essentially like every other top of the line vs mid ranged model sticks that every brand has. The RBZ60 is going to feel heavier, is made with lesser materials (not to be confused with less durable) and the feel of the puck isn't going to feel as natural.. less like the stick is a part of your body and more like you're holding a hard object to hit the puck around with

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03-17-2013, 01:35 PM
  #457
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Originally Posted by TieClark View Post
Weight, quality and feel essentially like every other top of the line vs mid ranged model sticks that every brand has. The RBZ60 is going to feel heavier, is made with lesser materials (not to be confused with less durable) and the feel of the puck isn't going to feel as natural.. less like the stick is a part of your body and more like you're holding a hard object to hit the puck around with
Alright thanks. I've played hockey my whole life, and have played competitively for about 10 years now and now I'm in a simple beer league that has games 1 night a week. I've never had a top end stick so I don't really know the differences. My next stick though, I either want to get the RBZ or the APX. Would it be acceptable to get the lower model or is it worth it to shell out the extra 100+ for the top model?

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03-17-2013, 01:50 PM
  #458
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Originally Posted by JaeTM View Post
Alright thanks. I've played hockey my whole life, and have played competitively for about 10 years now and now I'm in a simple beer league that has games 1 night a week. I've never had a top end stick so I don't really know the differences. My next stick though, I either want to get the RBZ or the APX. Would it be acceptable to get the lower model or is it worth it to shell out the extra 100+ for the top model?
More than acceptable to get the lower end models... they're still great sticks. While I use a top of the line model, I didn't pay for it. Unless dropping $300 on a hockey stick is no big deal for you I'd definitely go for the mid ranged, $100 ones like the RBZ60 or the Bauer X60 rather than the top of the line ones.

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Old
03-18-2013, 12:54 AM
  #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esidebill View Post
If you want to work on wrist strength, Olympic lifting, handstands and ring work will do wonders!

Try out a P92 (Bauer) or Hall (Easton) curve with a 75 or 87 flex. I find the curve is good for learning stick handling and is a good all around curve. I think the curve is called Draper in Warrior? Not sure about CCM. Make sure you cut it down between your bottom lip and chin!
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Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Kopitar now in Warrior, used to be Draper. Nugent-Hopkins in CCM, Crosby in Reebok.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
How long have you been playing? Are there any hockey shops around you? Do they carry replacement stick blades?

I'd be inclined to recommend getting a shaft with a couple different blades, but if you want a high end stick the Diablo is a good one. Otherwise I'd recommend tapered Warrior Dolomite shaft and a few Easton wood blades for the same price, you could try out some different curves that way.



If it's more than $25, skip it. Heavy, bad feel, just not a good stick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayBall View Post
I hope someone helps you, though from the sounds of it try for a 75, 80 flex at most. You can even get away with 85 but I'm of the philosophy that you should start off at a flex that will do the work for you and from there you can get a stiffer flex if you decide it torques too much on your wristers/slaps.

I liked the RBZ in the limited time I got to shoot it, I liked it alot actually, and I have a feeling the RBZ60 will be good. Wood sticks get water-logged and wear out easy, so if I had to I'd suggest getting a 75, and an 85 flex stick. The price difference will be neglible when the wood stick breaks/loses it's pop on you and you're ordering sticks again.

EDIT: May I suggest reconsidering your Tavares curve? (I hope the others weigh in on this, everyone's opinion will vary) According to hockeymonkey it is a 6 lie and that might not be enjoyable for you. Youtube stick lies if you need help understanding them. The Lecavalier looked similar and is a 5.5 lie, I liked the Couturier but not everyone likes a shallow blade. Hossa looks very similar to Tavares and is a 5 lie, anyone know how similar the Hossa is to the Tavares for our friend here?

Cheers.
Thanks for all the replies and help.

Stuff arrived today. Ended up getting a CCM crossover, warrior dolomite shaft and some blades (draper, zetterberg). now to try it all out

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Old
03-18-2013, 04:56 AM
  #460
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Picked up a Warrior Bandito shaft for 25 bucks. Leaning towards putting on ABS blades for ball hockey. Any drawbacks/limitations to that?


Last edited by God: 03-18-2013 at 05:05 AM.
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Old
03-18-2013, 08:43 AM
  #461
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Originally Posted by God View Post
Picked up a Warrior Bandito shaft for 25 bucks. Leaning towards putting on ABS blades for ball hockey. Any drawbacks/limitations to that?
The best blades I've found so far for ball/roller hockey are the RBK 2k ABS blades. They're more than stiff enough for ball hockey, very light compared to most ABS blades, and take very well to changing the curve with a heat gun if you so desire. And they wear very well without flaring at the bottom like some Easton ABS blades that I've tried.

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Old
03-18-2013, 09:10 PM
  #462
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So I've got a good understanding of the various stick characteristics : flex, lie, curve, kickpoint.

What I don't understand is what exactly you're getting with the more expensive sticks. Are they lighter? More durable? Better performing?

I'm a relatively casual rec league player (C to D level, 1-3 hours/week) so I can't see spending $150+ on a stick that could break at any time. I've noticed that some common price points are ~$60, ~$90, ~$120. What's the difference between the sticks in these ranges?

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03-18-2013, 11:10 PM
  #463
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Any thoughts on the CCM RBZ 60 stick. the $119.00 stick, not the top of the line.

I am looking for a good stick under $130. But I heard that this stick after only a few adult league games it started to chip away on the blade. What do you think?

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Old
03-19-2013, 05:57 PM
  #464
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Originally Posted by Thesensation19 View Post
Any thoughts on the CCM RBZ 60 stick. the $119.00 stick, not the top of the line.

I am looking for a good stick under $130. But I heard that this stick after only a few adult league games it started to chip away on the blade. What do you think?
I don't know why you always do this... post in one thread.

It also helps if you do a search beforehand as well.

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03-19-2013, 06:10 PM
  #465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17of26 View Post
So I've got a good understanding of the various stick characteristics : flex, lie, curve, kickpoint.

What I don't understand is what exactly you're getting with the more expensive sticks. Are they lighter? More durable? Better performing?

I'm a relatively casual rec league player (C to D level, 1-3 hours/week) so I can't see spending $150+ on a stick that could break at any time. I've noticed that some common price points are ~$60, ~$90, ~$120. What's the difference between the sticks in these ranges?
From the OP:

The cheapest composite sticks have a high fiberglass to graphite ratio, which gives high durability to slashes but poor performance. They bend and return to shape slowly, which takes speed off the shot, and often will have poor feel for the puck. They also tend to be very heavy, sometimes as heavy as a wood stick. The only advantage they have over wood is increased durability, but the higher price, poor puck feel, and lack of performance means I would not recommend them for any player.

High-end composite sticks are made exclusively of graphite, which is lighter and snaps back to shape quicker than fiberglass. These are the sticks of choice for most elite players due to their light weight and quick release. While these sticks have excellent performance, they are very susceptible to breakage, and often manufacturers will add layers of Kevlar to the shaft to prolong their life.

In addition to these ends of the spectrum, there are a number of sticks to hit various price points between them. Generally, the more expensive the stick, the more graphite and less fiberglass, resulting in lighter weight and higher performance. But even the best of these price point sticks can vary quite a bit from the highest end sticks due to construction differences.


In short, expensive sticks are lighter, better balanced, have better puck feel, and have better "kick" to them, but might be less durable. $110-150 is the sweet spot for performance to price IMO

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Old
03-19-2013, 06:11 PM
  #466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thesensation19 View Post
Any thoughts on the CCM RBZ 60 stick. the $119.00 stick, not the top of the line.

I am looking for a good stick under $130. But I heard that this stick after only a few adult league games it started to chip away on the blade. What do you think?
Check the last page or two, someone asked about the same stick. I think the chipping is just the paint.

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03-19-2013, 06:53 PM
  #467
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Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
In short, expensive sticks are lighter, better balanced, have better puck feel, and have better "kick" to them, but might be less durable. $110-150 is the sweet spot for performance to price IMO
Thanks, I think that's the answer I was looking for.

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Old
03-20-2013, 12:55 PM
  #468
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I had nearly this exact question and answer about 6 months ago. I had a Bauer Nexus 400 stick(about $65) but was curious about higher end sticks. I was encouraged to try something over the $100 price point. I ended up getting two clearance Warrior Dolo's for about $140 total(originally $180 sticks or so). I have to tell you, the difference was readily apparent.

First, they definitely felt lighter, and that translated to just a feeling of being quicker in stickwork, even with things like poke checking. The biggest difference to me though(as someone with no real slapshot or particularly great bend on shots), was the feel of it. I can feel the puck on the blade in a way I never could with the 400. It is a much more comfortable feeling and that translates to a whole lot more confidence. I would recommend looking around for deals in that $100-150 area. I think some of the big companies will also let you try them out for a month or so.


Last edited by mistrhanky: 03-20-2013 at 04:25 PM.
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Old
03-20-2013, 02:07 PM
  #469
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I love Dolomites. Maybe not the best performance in terms of weight but great all-around stick and were under $200 new.

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Old
03-22-2013, 01:01 AM
  #470
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anyone know what warrior replaced the warrior dolomite dragons with? i cant find any online that are drapers and 85 flex

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03-22-2013, 12:23 PM
  #471
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The Dynasty line replaced the Dolomites. Not exactly the same but not far off.

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03-22-2013, 08:07 PM
  #472
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I wouldn't say that they replaced the Dolomites. Different technologies are enough of a distinguishing factor. Initial pricepoints however, are similar.

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Old
03-22-2013, 10:47 PM
  #473
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Just need opinions..

Would you buy a 2011 Dolomite for 75 bucks shipped?

I HATE how warrior discontinued the Gionta curve (at least for retail) and how their blades on dolos are usually crap when it comes to durability.

But i LOVE dolomites. If that makes any sense. Do you think the value is there?


Last edited by TheeNorthStar: 03-22-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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Old
03-22-2013, 10:56 PM
  #474
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Yes, it's a good deal.

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03-23-2013, 12:13 AM
  #475
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Thanks for the input

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