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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice

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Old
03-23-2013, 06:37 PM
  #476
Vip
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Picked up an S19 grip with the Roy curve/100 flex.

Was $125 in the bargain bin at my local pro shop Super stoked.

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03-24-2013, 07:33 PM
  #477
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seriously sher-wood t90 is the best deal any day of the week when we talk about the amount of stick for your buck

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03-24-2013, 11:30 PM
  #478
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For seniors maybe, the intermediates were terrible. The new Sherwoods look a lot better.

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03-27-2013, 07:37 PM
  #479
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Anyone know anything about the RBZ 2? This is the only thing I've seen about it. https://twitter.com/CCMHockey/status/316615389243117569

It's a CCM tweet, so I know that it's legit. But, I just can't seem to find anything about this stick.

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03-30-2013, 02:17 AM
  #480
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Blade lie and length.

I'm sorry if this has been talked about a thousand times or I missed a main thread about it but can someone please explain lie too me.

I'm not a hockey noob or anything, and I understand it's the way the blade lays on the ice, but a more detailed explanation would be very helpful too me.

I played Jr's this season and I have my pick of a bunch of different curves/lies but I couldn't find anything I wanted to stick with.
I'm super picky when it comes to my sticks so I switched it up a lot.

Would the length of my stick with different lies be effected that much?

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03-30-2013, 10:19 AM
  #481
AIREAYE
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Do a search for blade lie or stick lie...

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04-01-2013, 11:06 AM
  #482
Jarick
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Check the sticky up top, lots of info there.

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04-02-2013, 02:09 PM
  #483
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Here, I finally took pictures of the stupid T90 intermediates, which were being blown out for $50, about $20 more than I would spend on one:

T90, covered in stickers that make it look like carbon fiber from about 2000 feet away. It's also blade heavy and kind of crappy feeling in general.



Notice how terribly the stickers match up, going from straight to diagonal back to straight. Come on, Sherwood.

Close up of the blade with the black and sparkly gray stickers:



Here's the T100 by contrast, which is very light and well balanced and this is the actual graphite material finish:



Closeup of the blade:


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04-02-2013, 06:32 PM
  #484
AIREAYE
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With a real (surface at least) carbon weave, you can actually see the strands. I'm guessing you couldn't with the INTs?

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04-02-2013, 07:29 PM
  #485
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T90 is stickers
T100 is actual carbon wrap

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04-05-2013, 05:06 AM
  #486
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Any opinions on the TPS R6? Espeacially on wear and weight? I can get some for cheap.
Thanks in advance

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04-05-2013, 10:56 AM
  #487
AIREAYE
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There were multiple iterations of it. Which one are you referring to?

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04-05-2013, 11:42 AM
  #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquenstein View Post
Any opinions on the TPS R6? Espeacially on wear and weight? I can get some for cheap.
Thanks in advance
I believe TPS was bought out by SherWood. If you can find their sticks, they are cheap:

http://www.sportchek.ca/product/inde...757718.3748095

I have only used their wood sticks, but so I can't comment on the R6.

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04-05-2013, 01:55 PM
  #489
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I know the model is a few years old, but I bought my son an Easton s19 (85 FLEX)on clearance for $100....he tried it last night and loves it so far.

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04-06-2013, 12:25 PM
  #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquenstein View Post
Any opinions on the TPS R6? Espeacially on wear and weight? I can get some for cheap.
Thanks in advance
Sorry here is a pic

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Old
04-06-2013, 01:54 PM
  #491
AIREAYE
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Oh that's the TPS Sherwood version. Decent mid end stick for sure. How much can you get it for?

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04-06-2013, 03:30 PM
  #492
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I can get it for 50 . (I'm located in europe)

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04-14-2013, 12:20 PM
  #493
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I've been looking for high end sticks on clearance as the beginning of the post reccommends.

There are some really good prices on Mako sticks now. If I bought a Mako Shaft and Mako Blade would it be practically the same as a OP Mako?

I imagine pros may be able to tell the difference but I am between beginner and intermediate adult amateur.

Thanks!

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Old
04-18-2013, 01:01 PM
  #494
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I could definitely use some help here on a stick for next season. I currently use a Warrior Dolo with the Vanek curve, lie 5.5 I think. I love the lie on the stick and want to keep that as best I can. It is starting to crack and shred at the heel though(I am a pretty aggressive hacker as far as stick checking goes -- tough on sticks I guess) so I was looking for a replacement. I also really like the blade pattern as it is not a very aggressive curve at all, which makes my backhand easier. I have an 85 flex and can get some juice on a slapshot, but not a ton, and definitely no lift. Finally, limited budget.

Doing some searching I see that I can get a Warrior Diablo for about 100, or find the occasional dolo for about $80. Not sure what the difference is between a dolo and a dolo DD either. I want to get something around a 75 flex which is easy enough to find, but a vanek curve is not. Would something like a lidstrom come pretty close? I kind of like the square toe on it. What is the real difference between the dolo and the diablo?

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04-18-2013, 03:09 PM
  #495
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Diablo is lower kick point and felt stiffer to me than the Dolomite. Good puck feel though. I would try and find a Dolomite if you could.

Sounds like 75 flex would work well for you.

Lidstrom is a big open curve with a 6 lie while the Vanek was a mild slightly open curve with a 5 lie. I think you'd have problems with the lie to be honest.

Two options:

Burrows if you could deal with the slighter more closed curve
Kopitar if you could use a little more loft (and a slightly higher lie at 5.5)

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Old
04-19-2013, 03:20 AM
  #496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquenstein View Post
I can get it for 50 . (I'm located in europe)
I have an R6 in whip flex. Perhaps the fact its a whip flex is the reason I like it, but for a fairly inexpensive stick I have no complaints.

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Old
04-19-2013, 10:55 AM
  #497
mistrhanky
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Thanks Jarick. Going to try to find one of those. On the issue of my old stick cracking at the heel, is that likely from general wear and tear, or could it be from pounding it against the ice when trying to take slapshots? I am usually pretty attentive to the blade and this seems to have gotten bad in a real hurry.

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Old
04-19-2013, 12:14 PM
  #498
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How long did it take to crack? How often do you play?

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04-19-2013, 01:07 PM
  #499
mistrhanky
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I play 2-3 times a week, picked it up in late November. I really only started picking up any decent attempt at a slapshot in the last month or so. That is why I wonder if maybe I am coming down on the heel to much instead of loading the stick properly. Just seemed like the heel started to shred really quick. I do chop a lot with the stick though and get some pretty good dings on the shaft just above the blade. Mostly want to make sure that if this is out of the ordinary, and it might be related to my shot, that I don't damage another one prematurely.

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04-19-2013, 02:59 PM
  #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistrhanky View Post
I play 2-3 times a week, picked it up in late November. I really only started picking up any decent attempt at a slapshot in the last month or so. That is why I wonder if maybe I am coming down on the heel to much instead of loading the stick properly. Just seemed like the heel started to shred really quick. I do chop a lot with the stick though and get some pretty good dings on the shaft just above the blade. Mostly want to make sure that if this is out of the ordinary, and it might be related to my shot, that I don't damage another one prematurely.
It's possible that the lie is too high or the stick is too long. I had that heel problem at one time and my stick was as short as I wanted to go, so I tried the same blade curve in a 4 lie instead of a 5 lie and it solved the problem for me. It doesn't mean your case is the same but it's definitely something to consider.

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