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How to buy a hockey stick

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Old
11-06-2006, 06:48 PM
  #1
melubsdonna
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How to buy a hockey stick

Hey guys,

I'm a beginner at hockey and I want to buy a composite stick. I'm not a total newb, I play floor hockey relatively well, but I just started ice hockey.

I don't know anything about hockey sticks. I want something that is light, durable, high performance, and good on the buck. Also, looks is a plus =).

Although i'm a beginner, I don't mind using a good quality stick and grow into it. Unless there is something terribly wrong with that.

As an added tip, could you guys let me know what stick you personally use and why you like that stick? Thanks a bunch guys!

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11-06-2006, 07:01 PM
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sc37
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I suggest a shaft and blade combo unless you are 100% sure of what you want. You can get a tapered shaft and blade, and it will be the same as a composite one piece, just with flexibility to swap. You can play around some and if the flex or curve doesn't suit you, you can usually recoup the money on eBay.

As for my stick, I use a pro stock Montreal Nitro with a Lidstrom curve. I love the curve, pretty decent feel, and awesome durability. Used the thing for like 6 months and it still looks practically new. Only downside is that the flex isn't what I'm liking. I liked it initially, but now once I worked on my game a bit, find I want something flexier. I might add that the shaft is shaped differently on the inside, so I might have issues hacking off the blade and replacing it if it breaks. You can find these for $60 online so it's good for the buck. I actually got mine for about half that.

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11-06-2006, 07:01 PM
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Biggsy
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Yeah i would get a shaft and either a wood blade first to get use to it, if you get a one piece stick as your first stick you might be finding it hard to control the puck with accepting pass's etc.

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11-06-2006, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc37 View Post
Well I suggest getting a shaft and blade combo first unless you know are absolutely sure you know what you want. That way you can experiment with flexes and different curves, and if it doesn't work out, you can usually recoup your money on eBay. You can get a tapered shafted and blade which is the same perforamnce wise as a composite one piece...just have the flexibility to swap in and out.

Personally, I use a prostock Montreal Nitro. Those are pretty cheap right now, like $60 I've seen online some sites. I love it because it's got pretty decent feel, and its a tank. I haven't had any problems with durability at all...and that includes the paint job. Still looking pretty new after two sessions. Also love the curve, which is a Lidstrom clone. Only thing I'm not liking so much is the flex. It's around a 95...I was ok with it at first, now I feel I need something a bit whippier.
This is the most important thing, ice hockey, no matter how you slice it, is very different from floor hockey. A curve that might give you a good shot playing floor hockey might not be good for ice. The stick flex also plays a huge role in the power of your shot.

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11-06-2006, 08:02 PM
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melubsdonna
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What does "tapered" mean?

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11-06-2006, 08:15 PM
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sc37
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Definition:To become gradually narrower or thinner toward one end.

And thats what a tapered shaft essentially is. The stick gradually gets thinner towards the blade end. This is to help keep the flex point lower, and from what I've learned, supposedly help with the kick. More consistant performance and lower for a quick release. This as compared to a standard where it's a constant shape all around. Without any taper, the flex point could be anywhere technically and might be a little slower in release and funky kick might affect the shot. But idk if any of us are good enough to actually feel all that, though I do feel the quicker release.

To add more...you must get tapered blades for tapered shafts..and standard must go with standard. But I would mention the Z-Carbon blade and Z-Bubble shaft by Easton. They both have a taper in them, but have different ends to make them fit into standard shafts. If you shop around, you'll notice that tapered blades and shafts sometimes are hard to find and might cost a tad more.

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11-06-2006, 09:09 PM
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melubsdonna
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Yeah i was looking at the Z-bubble i like this one. I found one on ebay for 89.95. It says it's a size 75, that means it's a flex 75 right? I'm not sure how whippy it is.... i'll be playing forward and will be taking a lot of wrist shots... I don't know if its too whippy maybe a 85 would be better...

Did you say I don't have to use a tapered blade with the Z bubble stick?

Thanks for your help sc!

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11-06-2006, 10:16 PM
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If I was you I'd get a standard shaft with a relatively low flex rating. Then I'd pair it with a cheaper wood blade with a mild curve.

You won't notice a different between a tapered shaft and a standard at this point, no point in spending the extra money.

BTW. Just to point you in a direction the Easton Ultralite is pretty common and relatively cheap AND it performs nice and is LIGHT. I would recommend it for any beginner.


Last edited by TBLfan: 04-12-2010 at 06:55 PM.
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11-06-2006, 11:16 PM
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Geogaddi
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Alright...Have been using a One Piece Innovative Hull stick for the past year. Fell in love with how light, Wippy, and the curve it had on it.

Bad thing. Once the wear and tear Finally takes its toll on the stick, you find yourself having to buy another complete stick, which if your going for another one piece ranges from 120 and up.

The Blade on the Innovative got very thin, and ended up going to Peranis Hockey World earlier today. My Plan was to go in and just buy a Blade by Warrior ( Used to be Innovative), and just cut off the blade of the one piece. But after really thinking about it the stick wouldnt have the same kick point because i would have to turn the stick over to put the blade in.

Ended up coming to a fine conclusion, buying a Two piece ( Shaft and Blade). Bought a CCM Vector V 6.0 Shaft for 60 Bucks, and a Warrior AK27 Draper Blade for 40 bucks today. After playing and getting used to the Stick and Blade Combo for 6 Hours, I have my new Favorite Weapon.

At First i was skeptic about getting the 2 piece, thinking it might be a bit Blade heavy, which i really cant stand while stick handling. But with the AK Blade (159 Grams) and the Shaft, I really didnt feel much weight difference betweent the 2pc. and the Innovative.

Like another Poster said earlier, Go with the 2 Piece. Really allows you to try different Blade Patterns, as many have their own Preference as to how they like to shoot. I myself Have always used a Wood Stick or a One piece. Way to many Sticks i have gone through. But now Find myself

CCM Vector 6.0 Shaft.
http://www.hockeyworld.com/prodHome....tID=173&shop=1

AK27 Blade by Warrior
http://www.hockeyworld.com/prodHome....tID=146&shop=1


http://www.hockeyworld.com/b_about.ihtml?step=3

This will open up a Page and to the right will tell you alot about Blades, Shafts and Sticks... Will Answer alot of questions.

Good luck man, and hopefully you find the stick you really feel comfortable using.


Last edited by Geogaddi: 11-06-2006 at 11:25 PM.
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11-07-2006, 11:28 AM
  #10
sc37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melubsdonna View Post
Yeah i was looking at the Z-bubble i like this one. I found one on ebay for 89.95. It says it's a size 75, that means it's a flex 75 right? I'm not sure how whippy it is.... i'll be playing forward and will be taking a lot of wrist shots... I don't know if its too whippy maybe a 85 would be better...

Did you say I don't have to use a tapered blade with the Z bubble stick?

Thanks for your help sc!
Well you can make a stick stiffer but not flexier. I've kinda wound up in that hole right now where I'm not sure I like my stiffer stick. I have a thread on cutting the stick and making it stiffer, should be right below this one. But yeah, 75 would be ok, and if it's too whippy, cut an inch off to add 4 flex. If you really need to get drastic, you can hack off maybe 4" and add a composite butt end to keep the same length of the stick. And yes, the Z-Bubble takes standard blades. I hear the Z-Bubble with the Z-Carbon CNT blade is sweetttt

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11-07-2006, 12:34 PM
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Matt13
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If only I'd asked for help too....

My first two season's I was using a Sherwood Paul Coffey stick with a stiffness rating of 140! Do you know what it takes to get flex out of a 140? I might as well have been using a 2x4 instead.

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11-07-2006, 12:47 PM
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Bonzai12, I'm trying to get rid of an unused Pro stock Hull blade if you are interested... Just not my kind of blade.

sc37, You can add a butt end to make a stick whippier, but of course that adds length.

Matt13, WOW! Not only is a 140 flex to stiff for 98% of the hockey world, let alone a beginner but a Coffey curve is HORRIBLE for a beginner! Hope you found something better!

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11-09-2006, 12:20 PM
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Matt13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBLfan View Post
Matt13, WOW! Not only is a 140 flex to stiff for 98% of the hockey world, let alone a beginner but a Coffey curve is HORRIBLE for a beginner! Hope you found something better!

That is the mistake you make trying to save money in the begining by going to Play It Again Sports.


Luckily I make decent money and was able to to switch to composites. I currently have Easton Synergy (gold, with the grip) 100 flex and a sakic curve as well as a Easton Synergy ST? (blue and silver one) 100 flex with an Iginla I think. I have been through so many sticks its hard to remember.

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11-13-2006, 02:08 PM
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Hugh Madbrough
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Would an intermediate stick be more likely to break than a regular stick? I normally use a stiffness rating of 85 but I picked up a xxx lite that was a 67 flex the other day and I liked it. I thought about trying it but I don't want to waste 185 on an experiment.

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11-13-2006, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt13 View Post
That is the mistake you make trying to save money in the begining by going to Play It Again Sports.


Luckily I make decent money and was able to to switch to composites. I currently have Easton Synergy (gold, with the grip) 100 flex and a sakic curve as well as a Easton Synergy ST? (blue and silver one) 100 flex with an Iginla I think. I have been through so many sticks its hard to remember.
i think you second syn bomb is and sl....but a good one peice to start out with are the vapours im almost sure you can get a vapour v for 100 bucks canadian and its a half dec stick if you want to go top of the line go with a vap xxx lite lindros curve or naslund

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11-13-2006, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM47 View Post
Would an intermediate stick be more likely to break than a regular stick? I normally use a stiffness rating of 85 but I picked up a xxx lite that was a 67 flex the other day and I liked it. I thought about trying it but I don't want to waste 185 on an experiment.
I'm about to do the same thing. If anyone does that or if you do JM..let me know as I might not for aother couple weeks.

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11-14-2006, 04:35 PM
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It's not that an intermediate stick is easier to break soo much as a XXX lite is easy to break. They are one of two sticks I would never waste my money to own, the other being a synergy SL. They break more often than Eric Lindros gets concussions.


Last edited by TBLfan: 04-12-2010 at 06:56 PM.
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11-16-2006, 09:37 AM
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i need some stick advice too

im thinking about getting a Montreal Nitro 8500 Sr. 1-Piece Hockey Stick 240/stiff...

does anyone have info on this stick? what kind of curve does it compare to i use have a synergy with drury blade

any info would be great

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11-16-2006, 10:46 AM
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How come you got a sakic and an iginla? Those curves are nothing alike!

And don't get a vapor V, a vapor V2 is alright, but the Vapor V is horrible.

It's not that an intermediate stick is easier to break soo much as a XXX lite is easy to break. They are one of two sticks I would never waste my money to own, the other being a synergy SL. They break more often than Eric Lindros gets concussions.
Can someone suggest a few good composite OPSs and some good shaft/blade combos? I was looking at the Vapor V, so can you also tell me why it's that bad?

I'm partial to the Naslund curve, but something like a Sakic would work too. Are there other patterns that are like the Naslund curve out there?

Thanks!


Last edited by windflare: 11-16-2006 at 10:53 AM.
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11-16-2006, 11:39 AM
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sc37
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Originally Posted by ArchieIsGod View Post
i need some stick advice too

im thinking about getting a Montreal Nitro 8500 Sr. 1-Piece Hockey Stick 240/stiff...

does anyone have info on this stick? what kind of curve does it compare to i use have a synergy with drury blade

any info would be great
Get it! I love mine. Good stick and been highly durable with pretty good feel, pretty good price too. There's a pattern chart on the Montreal hockey website. Personally I'm using a medium flex, cut down a little and I'd say it's around a 95 flex or so. Idk about retail patterns they have as I have a prostock Lidstrom pattern.

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11-16-2006, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by windflare View Post
Can someone suggest a few good composite OPSs and some good shaft/blade combos? I was looking at the Vapor V, so can you also tell me why it's that bad?

I'm partial to the Naslund curve, but something like a Sakic would work too. Are there other patterns that are like the Naslund curve out there?

Thanks!
The Vapor V is essentially bottom of the line...for a few more bucks you can do much better than that is the reason.

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11-16-2006, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windflare View Post
Can someone suggest a few good composite OPSs and some good shaft/blade combos? I was looking at the Vapor V, so can you also tell me why it's that bad?

I'm partial to the Naslund curve, but something like a Sakic would work too. Are there other patterns that are like the Naslund curve out there?

Thanks!
The vapor V is really poor performance wise as well as durability. Don't waste your money, I bought one and just from shooting with it the darn thing started to crack up the shaft.

The Naslund is a Sakic clone so either will work for you.

One of the more popular shafts out there is the easton ultralite, which is pretty durable and performs nicely. If you can find a 2nd generation tps redlite I would HIGHLY recommend it; extremely durable, performs nicely.

The vapor V2 isn't that bad, it's much better than the vapor V. The VIII is also pretty decent, but not spectacular. You can find the Vapor XXX on closeout at some places for $110 or less, which is your best deal.

My advice is to look for closeouts and other sales on older high end sticks, you'll find great deals that way. In fact, at many places you can find a Mission L-2 with 2 blades for around $130.

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11-16-2006, 01:22 PM
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what about the Vapor XX, im thinking about that because the ones available have a better flex

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11-16-2006, 05:25 PM
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the XX was a top of the line stick before the XXX came out. It's not "monocomp" like the XXX but it's still a great stick. The counter part of the XX is the XV shaft and blade, which might still be found on closeouts... but for the most part they have all already been sold off.

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11-16-2006, 08:30 PM
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sc37
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The vapor V is really poor performance wise as well as durability. Don't waste your money, I bought one and just from shooting with it the darn thing started to crack up the shaft.

The Naslund is a Sakic clone so either will work for you.

One of the more popular shafts out there is the easton ultralite, which is pretty durable and performs nicely. If you can find a 2nd generation tps redlite I would HIGHLY recommend it; extremely durable, performs nicely.

The vapor V2 isn't that bad, it's much better than the vapor V. The VIII is also pretty decent, but not spectacular. You can find the Vapor XXX on closeout at some places for $110 or less, which is your best deal.

My advice is to look for closeouts and other sales on older high end sticks, you'll find great deals that way. In fact, at many places you can find a Mission L-2 with 2 blades for around $130.

V2 and VIII are the same stick...the VIII has some of the Bauer Endure-like features that'll supposedly help durability, but that's arguable.

Btw...since you mention the XX..are the custom color ones the same price as a normal XX?

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