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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice

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Old
05-08-2014, 08:45 PM
  #801
Onetimersniper28
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Originally Posted by 9Duchene View Post
Thanks I always tell guys on my team to look on eBay for deals during the summer. Most of them don't listen then they complain about spending $250-$300 when the season starts
That was an amazing deal you got, though. I haven't found anything interesting under $140-150.

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05-09-2014, 05:32 AM
  #802
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I'm becoming a stick snob. I still have my 20K and I have grown to love it even more. Now when I practice with my middle grade stick I become sad and immediately switch back.

I am waiting for some other high end sticks to arrive CCM CS and Easton black-out. I hope they at least have good balance.

Does anyone else find that balance is WAY more important than weight. I feel like if a stick is balanced well then the perceived weight is much less.

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05-09-2014, 08:03 AM
  #803
AIREAYE
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Of course, balance has always been more important.

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05-09-2014, 09:21 AM
  #804
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Hockey newb here with very little skill training. My issue is that I seem to have trouble comfortably getting/keeping my full blade on the ice. I have two sticks. BAUER VAPER 7.0 with Kane blade and 6lie. Also Easton Mako 2 with Iginla blade a 5.5 lie. Both sticks are cut to my chin with skates on.

When I am in skate stance, skating forward with my hands comfortably in front of me the heel is on the ice with only a few inches of the blade. In order to put the majority of the blade I would need to raise my arms and hands up considerably. Assuming we are supposed to have as much of the blade on ice is it the lie, length of stick, my stance or ???

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05-09-2014, 09:30 AM
  #805
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Sounds like it's your stance. Too hunched over rather than a straighter back and knees bent deep.

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05-09-2014, 09:52 AM
  #806
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Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Sounds like it's your stance. Too hunched over rather than a straighter back and knees bent deep.

Ok. I am happy to hear this. Cheap fix. Just need some hard work.

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05-12-2014, 06:46 PM
  #807
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Originally Posted by jazzykat View Post
You will be a bit taller on skates which I think gives you a bit more leverage. Obviously what feels "too whippy" depends on you. What I will strongly recommend is that you take into account how much stick you need to cut because you raise your flex as you do that.

For example, I am a (intermediate?)beginner 5'10" and 190 and I'm not that fat anymore. I prefer a stick that after being cut is 85 flex, so I have to buy something around 75 and cut it down to match my length requirement.

If you buy a 58" intermediate stick at flex 60 and cut say 5-6 inches off, then you've raised the flex over 70. If you get the same stick in 67 flex then you are near (or over) 80!
I absolutely love my 60 flex (cut down to about 3 inches to 67.5, but I may cut it down 4 inches to 70) APX2 on wrist shots, I do like it on snap shots and my slap shots are garbage. It feels like a wet noodle on slappers and one timers. Does that mean I need to go up in flex or is that my technique?

I was looking at the 67 flex Nexus sticks on sale (which feel whippier/softer to me than the APX2) and if I were to cut down my stick to the same spot as my 60 flex APX2 It would be more like a 77 or 80 flex and I'm just not sure if that would be too stiff for 5'6 148lb me even though the Nexus is softer and I'm a pretty strong, stocky guy... Any advice for me before I spend the $?

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05-13-2014, 01:25 PM
  #808
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Is it correct to presume that a closed blade will tend to keep the shot lower than an open blade?

Playing with a Hall curve, 100 flex, have been doing a little shooting practice lately and finding a lot of inconsistency and difficulty with controlling the shot height, especially with my slap shot. I've been ripping some quite high over the bar but am reasonably happy with how I'm hitting and feeling it.

Better to play around with stance and positioning to the puck or try or change to a closed blade stick to get it down a bit?

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05-13-2014, 03:20 PM
  #809
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Easton V9 Stick nuff said

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Old
05-13-2014, 04:25 PM
  #810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacifist Goon View Post
Is it correct to presume that a closed blade will tend to keep the shot lower than an open blade?

Playing with a Hall curve, 100 flex, have been doing a little shooting practice lately and finding a lot of inconsistency and difficulty with controlling the shot height, especially with my slap shot. I've been ripping some quite high over the bar but am reasonably happy with how I'm hitting and feeling it.

Better to play around with stance and positioning to the puck or try or change to a closed blade stick to get it down a bit?
Yeah a closed blade will keep your shots down, but maybe try rolling your wrists on the follow through instead. Helps with accuracy.

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05-13-2014, 05:41 PM
  #811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veritas0Aequitas View Post
I absolutely love my 60 flex (cut down to about 3 inches to 67.5, but I may cut it down 4 inches to 70) APX2 on wrist shots, I do like it on snap shots and my slap shots are garbage. It feels like a wet noodle on slappers and one timers. Does that mean I need to go up in flex or is that my technique?

I was looking at the 67 flex Nexus sticks on sale (which feel whippier/softer to me than the APX2) and if I were to cut down my stick to the same spot as my 60 flex APX2 It would be more like a 77 or 80 flex and I'm just not sure if that would be too stiff for 5'6 148lb me even though the Nexus is softer and I'm a pretty strong, stocky guy... Any advice for me before I spend the $?
A 67 flex Nexus cut down 3 inches would be perfect for you.
Another suggestion would be to cut 2 inches off a 70 flex Int stick from Warrior.

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05-14-2014, 02:39 PM
  #812
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Is there any possible way/trick to get a little rattling piece of glue or possibly raw material out of the lower end of the shaft of the stick, almost near the blade?

Having been very happy with Sherwood sticks my llast few purchases(Nexon N12/T100/EK15), I came across a sweet deal on another T100. It was perfect when I picked it up. However, after my very first game it has some rattling pieces in it. They aren't the easy ones that just fall out when you remove the plug.

It probably won't hurt the sticks perfromance. However, its driving me crazy. Since it was totally fine when I bought it, I went and cut about half an inch off it, so I don't think I can return it because its technically not broken. Its just super annoying to hear the material rattle around in there, and no possible way t seemingly get it out. Anyone ever have any luck getting a pesky rattle out of their stick? Thanks.

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05-16-2014, 07:52 AM
  #813
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Just picked up a Vapor APx Grip for $150. It's a great stick for shooting, I definitely get more on snapshots/slap shots than my Nexus1000. I've been playing d in my men's league as it's a intermediate league, and I love it from the point, the Nexus 1000 is still my go to when I skate up though for the stickhandling and wrist shots. Had to pick up the APx at the price though, it was the last one and it was my curve/flex(Stamkos/87 flex).

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Old
05-16-2014, 03:11 PM
  #814
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Would anyone by any chance know the difference that might be expected between the Mako M555 and M999, especially if they are priced very similarly?

I'm keen to try the Cammalleri curve.

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05-16-2014, 08:55 PM
  #815
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I think the 999 is based off of the M3 and the 555 is based off the M2.

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05-17-2014, 01:30 AM
  #816
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Thanks for that. Seems a little more info about those available. Am I correct to presume that M2, M3, M5 etc denotes some progression in quality (and likely price) to the respective sticks (and 999 would be superior to 555)?

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05-17-2014, 07:30 AM
  #817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacifist Goon View Post
Thanks for that. Seems a little more info about those available. Am I correct to presume that M2, M3, M5 etc denotes some progression in quality (and likely price) to the respective sticks (and 999 would be superior to 555)?
Yes. M1 is the entry level price point. Where as the M5 is the top tier Mako.

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05-17-2014, 06:16 PM
  #818
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Originally Posted by MattGTI View Post
Yes. M1 is the entry level price point. Where as the M5 is the top tier Mako.
No, the M5 is the second from the top.

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Old
05-17-2014, 08:24 PM
  #819
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Wrong thread


Last edited by Watch for the Yeti: 05-17-2014 at 08:43 PM.
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05-18-2014, 01:40 AM
  #820
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Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
No, the M5 is the second from the top.
What's higher is the Mako "M" series? Do they have a 6??

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Old
05-18-2014, 02:09 AM
  #821
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After switching between my Easton and Warrior sticks, I'm starting to think Easton's sticks are relatively more whippy.

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Old
05-18-2014, 10:24 AM
  #822
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Originally Posted by MattGTI View Post
What's higher is the Mako "M" series? Do they have a 6??
The Mako is the top end. The Mako M5 is one below. M3, M2, M1 followed.

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05-20-2014, 01:33 PM
  #823
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Had anyone tried the Nexus 8000? Big fan of Bauer and just wondering it's worth the money.

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Old
05-20-2014, 02:34 PM
  #824
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I don't mind shelling out on good gear, but figure that unless you're playing at an an elite level I can't see the point in paying top dollar for the 'best' stick,or sticks. I know the top ranked or most expensive stick isn't going to improve my shooting, just like the most expensive skates won't make me a better skater, plus I'd probably play a bit more conservatively with it because I didn't want it breaking.

Much rather buy two or three (or more) older stock sticks that you don't mind beating hell out of and don't lose any sleep over if you destroy them. Will always buy multiple $120-$150 sticks ahead of a $250+ stick.

I like and use Bauer equipment exclusively too, with the exception of sticks


Last edited by Pacifist Goon: 05-20-2014 at 02:43 PM.
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05-20-2014, 03:00 PM
  #825
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Had anyone tried the Nexus 8000? Big fan of Bauer and just wondering it's worth the money.
Worth? That's relative.

Is it a good stick when compared to other top-end sticks? Absolutely.

All of my colleagues who have demoed them love them enough to buy them for themselves. I personally am indifferent but prefer the kick of the APX2 and MX3.

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