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Can you saw a one-piece stick to fit a blade?

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04-09-2012, 06:19 PM
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tijuana knuckles
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Can you saw a one-piece stick to fit a blade?

So I have a Reebok A-9 hockey stick. The blade of the stick broke. Anyone ever saw the bottom off a one-piece stick and buy a blade to insert? Would it work? I spent a lot of $$ on stick and definitely did not use it enough to warant the price. It is broken on the blade. The whole blade did not cut in half but it unusable as it stands now.

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04-09-2012, 06:33 PM
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ausername1
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I haven't done it before but since the shaft is hollow, logic tells me should work as long as you measure the hollow of the shaft and the peg of the blade that goes in the shaft, take account for tapered/non-tapered etc. The only thing i'm not sure about is the glue. The lower inside of a shaft meant to be a two piece *might* have a slightly different material or texture as opposed to the inside of a shaft meant to be a composite so the the glue will adhere better ...but I've never heard that- just an idea.

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04-09-2012, 06:35 PM
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hyster110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausername1 View Post
I haven't done it before but since the shaft is hollow, logic tells me should work as long as you measure the hollow of the shaft and the peg of the blade that goes in the shaft, take account for tapered/non-tapered etc. The only thing i'm not sure about is the glue. The lower inside of a shaft meant to be a two piece *might* have a slightly different material or texture as opposed to the inside of a shaft meant to be a composite so the the glue will adhere better ...but I've never heard that- just an idea.
most sticks i find when you get past the tapered section, you don't really have enough stick left to make it work, have you tried to warranty it

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04-09-2012, 06:52 PM
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AIREAYE
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http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums...k%20%20cutting

This little gem will tell you everything you need to know

First off, it definitely is possible on almost all composite sticks, since most are fused 2pcs anyhow. The AI9 has a spear construction iirc so you won't be able to pop out the blade as say on a Dolomite or SE16.

Long story short, it is better to use a tapered blade imo because that way, you won't have to cut so high up to fit a standard because the more you cut will alter the stick flex and profile more. Trial and error can get it done, just keep chopping off bit by bit until you can fit the tapered blade in there, applying tape to the hosel for added stability when needed.

Sticks like the AI9 do not have a drastic taper like on the RS or Widow, so you can definitely give it a go. Failing that, you can always put a standard blade in the butt end.

edit : a strip of tape across the blade hosel, not on the joint/fuse point


Last edited by AIREAYE: 04-10-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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04-09-2012, 07:11 PM
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ponder
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Agreed with AIREAYE. With any stick you can flip it around and put a standard blade in the wrong end, but in general it messes with the kickpoint a bit, and gives you questionable performance. It's generally better to just slowly chop off the blade end bit-by-bit until you get to a thickness where you can fit a tapered blade in, removing the old tenon through heating or chiseling if necessary (some "OPS" sticks are simply a tapered shaft/blade setup that have been epoxied together, and you'll find the tenon in there when you saw off the blade). I've converted a number of broken sticks into tapered shafts this way, and it generally works out fine, just takes a bit of fiddling. If you have to cut it a bit shorter than you'd like, you can always add an end plug.

This won't work for any stick with a really long/extended taper (the Widow, but also a decent number of other high end sticks), and as AIREAYE mentioned it obviously won't work for Easton Stealth sticks with the crazy elliptical taper, but it should work for most sticks that have a rapid taper right near the blade, followed by a much more gradual taper higher up. I *think* the Ai.9 is such a stick, though I'm not totally sure.


Last edited by ponder: 04-09-2012 at 07:22 PM.
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04-09-2012, 07:20 PM
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AIREAYE
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ponder, weren't you the one who chiseled out an SE16 or Dolomite? I might be wrong.

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04-09-2012, 08:13 PM
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IDuck
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ive done it to a easton....and if you dont want to "saw" a little at a time you can always flip the shat and put a new blade into the handle part...and this is why i no longer buy rbk or easton

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04-09-2012, 08:58 PM
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tijuana knuckles
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You guys are awesome!

Thanks for the quick response. I'd like not to flip it if possible. I will try cutting off a little at a time. I

I really appreciate the quick response and great input.

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04-10-2012, 11:05 AM
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Jarick
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I've chiseled an SE16, it was a PITA but it works.

I had a 10k and the walls were so thin that I wasn't able to get a blade to fit in there without a crapload of tape so I gave up. You can just keep measuring and cutting and hope for the best.

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04-11-2012, 12:59 PM
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markisonfire
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We play a lot of roller here in California. If you want to get some use out of your broken one piece sticks, you can flip the stick after it's broken and insert a blade at the "top" of the stick, much like you would put in a stick butt end (extension). The good news is that you get more use out of your broken sticks, the bad news is that your kick point is way off. Good luck!

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04-11-2012, 04:09 PM
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ponder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
ponder, weren't you the one who chiseled out an SE16 or Dolomite? I might be wrong.
Not me, I've chiseled other sticks, but not an SE16 or Dolomite (actually, apparently you don't have to chisel Dolos, they apparently use a heat reactive glue, so if you heat them up you can pop the blade out). I do have friends who've converted these sticks, even loaned a friend some tools to do one, but haven't done them myself.

As Jarick said, chiseling is a REAL pain in the ass. The old tenon normally won't pop out easily, you have to really hack away at it, it can literally take an hour and leave you with very tired arms.

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04-11-2012, 04:38 PM
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I had an Avery Pro-stock that my rink got from the Rangers' practice facility and I HATED his curve but the flex was like 77 so it was optimal for me, so I chopped the dumbass' curve off, flipped it around, and threw a Warrior Spyne on there in the form of Kovalchuk and I loved that stick. I couldn't really tell if the kick-point was screwed up as that was my first composite stick I've ever used... lol. Screw Avery..

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04-15-2012, 05:19 PM
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HolyRollie
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I've done it, but it's not really worth it. Shaft flex and flex points change...not the same stick anymore.

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04-16-2012, 02:33 PM
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Jarick
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Agreed. I just don't break sticks enough to bother with that. Either go 2-piece from the outset or replace when they break.

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04-16-2012, 03:01 PM
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bigbadbruins1
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Also I know of some stores (generally equipment repair) that have equipment that actually can reseal a composite stick rather than using glue. It is generally about 30$ plus the cost of the blade but it actually makes the stick stronger as they add an extra piece of carbon fiber. sure it makes the stick a tad heavier, but I had mine redone and its as good as new.

But yes it is possible. just take small pieces until you can fit the blade in. you'll lose about an inch off the stick.

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Old
04-16-2012, 09:06 PM
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chickennecker
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I actually have made a 2piece(shaft and blade) out of a broken OPS. Ive done it with a dolo and a tps r8. The stick broke right above the blade tenon so I cut the break point clean to make the shaft and then heated(alot) and pulled, the little piece of stick from when it was an ops, off of the blade. By doing that i was left with perfectly tapered blade, which i just put back in the bottom of the now shaft and it was good to go. It was a few inches shorter so i added a wood extension to the top.

The r8 was the first one i did it with and wasnt sure if it would work or not so i actually used a dremel tool to cut two very shallow slits lenghtwise down where the blade tenon was. this allowed two areas for me to put a flathead screwdriver in and pry as i heated it. Ive since found out just heating and pulling will seperate the blade.

hope this makes sense

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