I've been using the heately curve for about 6 months now and im still having problems shooting. Everytime i shoot for the top corners or anything above halfway up the net i always shoot 3-6 inches above the crossbar. Do i just need to keep working at not shooting high or is there a curve that would help stop me from shooting it so high? I really like the lie on the heatley, what would be a similar lie?
The Heatley is a pretty mild pattern as far as the face goes, it's not a wedge. Try keeping your follow through lower. When you shoot snap it hard, roll your hands over and point to where you want the puck to go. If it keeps going high, point lower and lower until you get it right.
Some thoughts, and with the disclaimer I've been obsessing about golf recently...
- Try releasing the puck earlier in your shot, closer to your back leg than front...the face of the blade should be more closed shooting it lower.
- If you're coming from a more open curve, delay your shot a split second or shoot from a bit closer to the net...obviously the puck will take the same shot trajectory but it will start and finish lower.
- Go the opposite, instead of trying to shoot lower, start with a hard low "pass" on net and then move up from there...you might re-train the follow through and mechanics without having to start from scratch.
I found it easier to lift the puck in tight when I went with a shorter stick, the closer it is to your body the easier it is to get underneath it. I switched from a Heatley to a Zetterberg because I loved my backhander, shooting was a bit of an adjustment but at a teammates' suggestion I shortened the stick about 3 inches and noticed a huge difference.
I thought about that, a shorter stick does seem to help shoot higher, so the OP may want to try a bit longer stick, but he's happy with the lie so far so I'd try to change the shot release point, timing of the shot, and adjust the aim slightly first.
I had a Heatley curve a few years ago and it was easily the worst stick I have ever purchased. I don't know if all Heatley sticks are the same, but mine had a squared-off toe, which caused the blade to be slightly shorter and threw off my shot completely. I would snap my wrists a fraction of a second too late as the puck rolled down my blade on shots. I eventually gave it to a friend who broke his sticks in consecutive games. I'm sticking with my Forsberg/Zetterbergs.
Shooting a puck is no different than throwing a ball, it's based on the release point. If you release low, that's where the puck stays. Keep your follow through low as already suggested and your shot will stay down.
I would dump the Heatley curve. It is good for shots but terrible for puck handling and passing. I would advise switching to the Forsberg/Zett. Curve. For keeping your shots low, like others have said, it depends on the release point.
Unless we're talking about a truly nuts curve I really don't find that any particular curve affects my ability to keep shots under the crossbar. I really don't have any more trouble keeping shots down with an open curve like a Drury/Sakic than I do with a closed curve like a P88/Modano. I have to change my technique slightly, there's a short adjustment period, but otherwise I have a pretty similar control in terms of shot height with most retail curves. If a curve has the wrong lie, that can destroy my shot, but if the lie is fine for me then most retail curves give me decently similar shots. I say "retail curves," because some pro stock curves are totally insane and require drastically different technique, but most retail curves are reasonably similar. All the common retail curves are mid to heel curves of moderate depth, that range from closed to decently open, extreme curves that require dramatically different technique are pretty much found only in pro stocks, and the more niche retail curves (like the Warrior Kremlin/CCM Crazy Ovi).
Find a curve that you're reasonably comfortable with, then work on technique, that's really what accuracy is all about. I'd say the standard way to shoot now is: 1) Start with a short drag in/forward, cupping with puck with your blade closed. Don't drag it too far forwards, you'll lose power if the puck is too far forward during the next phase of the shot (the snap/load phase). If you want to get your shot off really fast, just cup the puck and eliminate the drag for a more pure snapshot, but when starting off I'd recommend keeping the drag and going for more of a snap/wrist hybrid 2) Snap the puck off with a quick open/close motion with wrists, don't open up too much though (some people golf wedge pucks and end up just chipping them without power, err on the side of too closed, not too open). You should be shooting more or less from the mid blade with any of the most common retail curves, at most slightly to the heel or slightly to the toe of mid blade, but I definitely wouldn't be shooting from the toe unless you're using a legitimate toe hook 3) Really get your body weight into the shot, if shooting off your inside foot you should be almost leaning forwards, keep consistent downward pressure on the shaft
Once you get this technique nailed down, your accuracy and power should change TOO much between the common retail curves, so long as the curve has a lie that works for you (and of course the stick itself should be the right length and flex). If your shot varies massively between different common retail curves that have similar lies, then I'd say you likely have technique issues, with unconventional shot mechanics that really rely on the shape of a specific curve.
i had the same problem with that curve and i found that shooting wristshots with the puck on the toe keeps it down a bit but on slap shots and snap shots u just got to aim lower since you know that stick rockets the puck straight up