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Cost of backyard rink

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Old
01-07-2009, 02:40 PM
  #1
Kavliary2000
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Cost of backyard rink

Just curious,

Im not much of a handyman, but im very interested in getting myself and backyard rink.

Can anyone tell me how much they think it would cost me to hire someone to build an backyard rink for me.

What would the labour + materials cost me for an average sized rink.

All "guess-timates" are welcome

Thanks

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01-07-2009, 02:42 PM
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UserName
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find time, build it yourself.

it's much more rewarding.

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01-07-2009, 02:47 PM
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87vert
 
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get togeather with some other guys and get them to pitch in for ice time.
There are kits you can buy on ebay.

I want to move north just to have my own rink

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01-07-2009, 08:06 PM
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MikeD
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Depends on size:

Materials:
3" PVC drain pipe (thinner gage than schedule 40) @ about .95 a foot.
3" I.D. LDPE Hose (Secures liner) @ 2.60 a foot.
6, 8 or 10 mil liner Polyethylene sheeting or tarp for liner
60x60 blue poly tarp is about 250.00
straw to pack under your perimeter to bring top level. Bales of straw can be found locally ranging from 1-3 dollars per bale. For a very flat (less than 1" rise or drop over the length and/or width) areas this is not needed. Hay will seed your lawn in the spring....wont be pretty.

The PVC drain pipe is connected to each other using ethafoam rod such as a beach/pool toy like a "noodle". Each connection needs about 3-4" lengths, at least 2" in each end of a PVC section. For round corners you use JUST foam. A 3' section of foam will make that round form at each corner with 2-3" inserted into the end PVC section of each side. The foam allows for expansion while holding your "box form" together. This will form the top perimeter of your rink.

A level area is not needed. depending on the size of your liner and the size you choose to make your PVC perimeter, it will adjust to take upward of 9-12 inches of out of level BUT that will increase the water amount needed greatly.

The LDPE pipe is cut to shorter lengths and sliced straight(very important) along its length. This allows you to "snap" them over the tarp to hold it to your PVC perimeter. Tip for install...keep this inside or above 70F. so that it is pliable. It will snap over much easier and is less likely to damage your tarp. Once starting one end, keep the free section bent in a curve upward and back away from the direction your snapping it on. This will open the cut to make it easier to snap over.

Once the ground has frozen you can place this on your lawn and it wont kill the grass. Lay out your PVC perimeter using the foam to connect each section and form your corners. Lay the tarp over this form. Remember to leave enough over hang to occomodate out of level conditions. I suggest using a line level or some such thing to get a good idea of how much your going to run into. Take your LDPE sections that you have cut and snap over and around the PVC pipe. This secures the tarp/liner. Over lap each new piece of LDPE by about 2 inches so it is tight and secure as well as to not leave exposed ares of the tarp to get cut by a skate.

Use straw under the perimeter to bring your edge level. flooding with enough to fill the entire bottom(flatter areas) will help you see how much you need. With slope greater than1-2" out of level from end to end, you will need to do several small floods to bring the water/ice up to the bottom of your perimeter as you adjust the hight as needed, placing straw under. You can place the straw well under and outside the perimeter so the tarp slopes upward on the straw to the perimeter. It need not be straight downward to the ground, such as like a pool liner.

Once you have reached the point where the perimeter is level with your LDPE snap cover, you will begin to add water in small floods of about 1/8" and allow to freeze. This will give you a decent bond between layers. Warm water works best as it freezes more rapidly and bonds well to existing ice(60F or above) but is not needed. Continue with the small floods until your ice is at the top of your snap liner. This will give a MIN of 3" of ice to skate on.

TIP: do not flood with enough water to FLOAT existing ice. Take your time and you will like the results much more. Do not walk on liner or thin ice as it can rip holes very easily....duct tape on each side of the liner will seal a hole...

TO surface your rink you can easily make an ice rake....using small dia PVC, purchase 4 end caps, 2 T-fittings, 2 couplers, 1 female hose connector and 1 - foot length of 1/2" drain line. The idea is to create an "I" shape with the top of shorter to work as the handle and the bottom longer where the water will be dispenced. for each longer section on this bottom, drill 1/16" holes about 1-2 inches apart in a straight line down each length. When inserting them into the T fitting at the bottom align the holes to be about 20-30 degrees downward from the main body. The water will be directed toward the ice as this is dragged. At some point near your top or even on the end(replaces one end cap) of the handle you can install the female garden hose connector with small control valve. On each end where the water is released, For your mat to spread the water even you can use anything from terry cloth to thin synthetic rubber or leather. Install this so that when dragged, the material is over the top of your water dispertion line. You want the matting to start be 180 from your water holes. Finally, using a scrap piece of PVC tube, cut a 1/2" long piece in half. Glue one to each of hte ends where the water is released to the ice. Glue in place so that they are 1/8-1/4" below the water distribution section. These act as guides or runners for your "rake" to glide on as you drag it up and down the ice.

For an area larger than 30x40 or with between 2-3 inches of slope over the full length you would want to consider increasing to a 5" PVC diameter drain pipe.

I will take a few pictures of our goalie training rink this weekend. I just dont have the time or energy for the full size rink anymore so we have reduced it greatly. A retail example of this would be an ICE N' GO rink. I had one about 8 years ago and built a full size rink at a much lower cost by getting my own materials, building it myself. note: The Ice N' Go liner is VERY fragile....DO NOT walk on liner or ice thin enough to crack under your weight...it WILL rip. It has a feel much like the clear plastic wrap on a microwave TV DINNER...pretty durable but once a sharp object touches it....toast.

There is another product you can look into called NICE RINK


Last edited by MikeD: 01-07-2009 at 08:19 PM.
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Old
01-12-2009, 11:45 AM
  #5
87vert
 
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any one use this before?

I wouldnt mind making a small rink in my yard to goof around on.

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01-12-2009, 11:49 AM
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nullterm
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Depends on how hardcore you want to be.


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01-12-2009, 01:18 PM
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WVP
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Holy crap.

Must have two crazy hockey fan dads living next door to each other.

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01-12-2009, 02:47 PM
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nullterm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVPens View Post
Holy crap.

Must have two crazy hockey fan dads living next door to each other.
I'm pretty sure it's in my hometown, Edmonton. Plenty to pick from.

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01-12-2009, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nullterm View Post
I'm pretty sure it's in my hometown, Edmonton. Plenty to pick from.
What's behind the John Deere?

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Old
01-12-2009, 05:37 PM
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nullterm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosbyfan View Post
What's behind the John Deere?
Mini-zamboni.

http://zamboni.com/machines/model100.html

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Old
01-12-2009, 06:18 PM
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Depends on how fancy you want it to be. I've made one the last few years with just packed snow as a base and the snow I scrape off as boards. It's lots of fun, really easy. Only thing that costs is the water plus I chose to buy a rink rake.

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01-13-2009, 12:39 AM
  #12
Ice Hockey
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that rink is unreal.

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