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Old
06-19-2009, 12:37 AM
  #1
TheZherdev
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New hockey stick

Hey guys, so I just broke the Synergy I have been using for 5 years in half after taking a slapshot. Up until now I have just been replacing the blade for it every time it wore out. So now I want to get a new stick that is just as durable for me. At the same time I am looking for performance. I am also looking for a stick that offers a jagr blade or something close to it. Durability is the most important thing for me though especially for the shaft (I dont mind replacing the blades). I keep hearing that the One95 is pretty durable? Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

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06-19-2009, 12:39 AM
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BadHammy*
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheZherdev View Post
Hey guys, so I just broke the Synergy I have been using for 5 years in half after taking a slapshot. Up until now I have just been replacing the blade for it every time it wore out. So now I want to get a new stick that is just as durable for me. At the same time I am looking for performance. I am also looking for a stick that offers a jagr blade or something close to it. Durability is the most important thing for me though especially for the shaft (I dont mind replacing the blades). I keep hearing that the One95 is pretty durable? Any recommendations would be much appreciated.
ONE95 very durable, 10k very high performance.

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06-19-2009, 12:45 AM
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Heat McManus
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IMO the best balance between performance and durability out there right now is the SyneryST.

I've heard great things about One70s, One50s as well as One75 and One55. You might be able to find a dirt cheap One70 or One50 too. Happy hunting.

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06-19-2009, 01:31 AM
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TheZherdev
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Im more interested in the durability in the shaft. I dont care if the blade breaks or wears off in a month as long as I can replace it on the knob afterward. I feel a little bit loyal to Easton after using my synergy for so long. Thats why I have been debating between the S17 and one95. Im a decent player at 6ft2 165 lbs but I dont even really play that competitive anymore (mostly mens leagues and pick-ups). Im willing to dish out the dough thinking im going to use at least the shaft of the stick for a very long time. If I choose to get the 10k, which I hear has the best performance, how durable is the shaft of the stick?

Thanks for all the info guys.

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06-19-2009, 01:39 AM
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NYRSinceBirth
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My One70 blade split at the heel like the third time I used it, but I'm certain it was a freak accident, as I know guys that have like them a lot. The biggest tank of a stick I've had was my One90. I only played a few pick up games with it, but I'm very hard on one pieces, and it held up great.

I heard great things about the ST also, but I never used it. I've become a huuuge fan of the Dolomites. I use pro stock blades and love them, and the OPS aren't one pieces, so if the blade goes to **** you can pull the blade just like a 2 piece and use a different tapered blade.

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06-19-2009, 01:47 AM
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TheZherdev
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Originally Posted by NYRSinceBirth View Post
My One70 blade split at the heel like the third time I used it, but I'm certain it was a freak accident, as I know guys that have like them a lot. The biggest tank of a stick I've had was my One90. I only played a few pick up games with it, but I'm very hard on one pieces, and it held up great.

I heard great things about the ST also, but I never used it. I've become a huuuge fan of the Dolomites. I use pro stock blades and love them, and the OPS aren't one pieces, so if the blade goes to **** you can pull the blade just like a 2 piece and use a different tapered blade.
Im sorry if i seem clueless but what are pro-stock and tapered blades?

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06-19-2009, 01:55 AM
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Heat McManus
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Originally Posted by TheZherdev View Post
Im sorry if i seem clueless but what are pro-stock and tapered blades?
there are two types of shafts. Standard and Tapered. Tapered shafts have a with than standard.

Pro-stock is any stick that was issued to a pro-team. THey can be different than retail sticks in a few ways, but they may be the same. Sometimes it's painted as another model (ST painted as an S17 is one I've seen a good deal), reinforced, custom blade patter, etc.

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06-19-2009, 02:19 AM
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NYRSinceBirth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vakar Lajos View Post
there are two types of shafts. Standard and Tapered. Tapered shafts have a with than standard.

Pro-stock is any stick that was issued to a pro-team. THey can be different than retail sticks in a few ways, but they may be the same. Sometimes it's painted as another model (ST painted as an S17 is one I've seen a good deal), reinforced, custom blade patter, etc.
Just to add, the pro stock blades are just the blades that come in the players own, custom curves. So you can get some crazy, non retail, but composite quality curves for cheap. I found heating and custom curving my woodies turned them into noodles in basically a game, or else I'm doing it wrong.

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06-19-2009, 10:10 AM
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Jarick
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I would highly recommend the Dolomite 2-piece stick, been using one for over a year and it's still going strong. Just got another for this year. The performance has also remained very high, flex broke in a little, but not too much.

If I were getting a standard 2-piece, I'd look at the One95. The kickpoint is higher, which suits more of a slapshot game instead of my wrist shots, but the performance is high and the blades are supposed to have a great feel and good durability (I've only used the shaft).

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06-19-2009, 10:22 AM
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Jarick
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For heating wood blades, it depends on the blade and how you do it.

I've had the best success with Montreal M95 blades because they have an ABS (plastic) core with wood laminate over it. So it holds its shape very well but stays stiff.

I use a heat gun to get it hot to the touch (takes maybe a couple minutes), then I put it in a vice grip mounted to a work bench, clamp it, and bend it slowly but smoothly. What I mean is, if you watch a machine press, it pushes down slowly, smoothly, and with even force. I try to do the same thing.

If I'm trying to add toe curve to a blade, I start at the mid toe, curve a bit, then heat up again, curve closer to the toe, etc. I work my way out.

Usually I'll see some stress lines in the fiberglass, which is to be expected, and you can't do too crazy a curve without too much fiberglass stress. But it works well when you want to tweak a pattern.

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06-19-2009, 11:01 AM
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190Octane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheZherdev View Post
Im more interested in the durability in the shaft. I dont care if the blade breaks or wears off in a month as long as I can replace it on the knob afterward. I feel a little bit loyal to Easton after using my synergy for so long. Thats why I have been debating between the S17 and one95. Im a decent player at 6ft2 165 lbs but I dont even really play that competitive anymore (mostly mens leagues and pick-ups). Im willing to dish out the dough thinking im going to use at least the shaft of the stick for a very long time. If I choose to get the 10k, which I hear has the best performance, how durable is the shaft of the stick?

Thanks for all the info guys.
Why don't you get a S15 (z-bubble) or a Synergy ST (ultra lite) shaft? If you are using a one piece and flipping it over you are messing with the flex point and not making the stick as effective. If you just start off with a standard shaft you keep the flex point where it should be, you save money and you get a durable stick.

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06-19-2009, 02:35 PM
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stick9
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Right now this is probably the best stick for the money.

http://www.hockeymonkey.com/mission-...tanium-sr.html

You should give some serious thought about a tapered combo. All the advantages of a one piece, with the convenience of a two piece.

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06-19-2009, 05:41 PM
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Devil Dancer
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I love my One95, but I haven't heard great things about durability. Skip the One50, it's super durable but the performance isn't there.

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Old
06-19-2009, 06:09 PM
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S17, Iginla curve and 85 flex.

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Old
06-19-2009, 07:02 PM
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TheZherdev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190Octane View Post
Why don't you get a S15 (z-bubble) or a Synergy ST (ultra lite) shaft? If you are using a one piece and flipping it over you are messing with the flex point and not making the stick as effective. If you just start off with a standard shaft you keep the flex point where it should be, you save money and you get a durable stick.
I may do that. I did some research on tapered shafts and blades and apparently they have low kick points. Which is good for me since im more of a wrist shot guy that occasionally uses the slapper. My question now is, i like to play with a lot of curve on my blade (i just recently switched from using the coffey blade to a jagr blade), and I read that tapered shafts only work with tapered blades. What is the most similar tapered blade to a jagr or coffey blade?

Thanks for all the info guys. I really appreciate it. you guys are the best.

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