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What Stick Should I Buy?

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Old
10-27-2009, 07:16 PM
  #26
Jarick
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Yeah I sold my Dolomite shafts and blades and picked up a One95 and XXV OPS, really wish I kept the blade and got an 8k instead...I've scored only one goal and one assist in the last 8 games, before that I had 22 points in 12 games

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10-27-2009, 08:06 PM
  #27
AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaBacon View Post
The stick is great at its price point, entry level price point. The X:50 is mid level. X:60 is the X level top end. The X:15 is the same as a top end woodie, it shouldnt even be brought up.

I have shot near every single stick more then once, PHL lets you, especially when you know the workers. They have the rapidshot shooting gallery, i spend quite a bit of time there shooting.

I would take the x:40 over the R2 but i would not spent money on entry level sticks as my main stick. There is a reason why it is a 100$ stick.

Once again, not saying it is s***, just saying it is entry level.
Ok, well it's probably one of the best sticks you can get if you're on a budget or don't play at a competitive level. I play House League so whatever

Oh and I got it at PHL, and tried the X:40 vs XVI. The guy there said that the X:40 was better at relatively the same price point than the XVI, what do you think?

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10-27-2009, 08:26 PM
  #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Ok, well it's probably one of the best sticks you can get if you're on a budget or don't play at a competitive level. I play House League so whatever

Oh and I got it at PHL, and tried the X:40 vs XVI. The guy there said that the X:40 was better at relatively the same price point than the XVI, what do you think?
I agree with that, it doesnt matter what level you play or are, its what you can afford.

They are pretty much the same imo. If i had to chose i would buy the X:40, BUT i would just spend an extra 20-30 bucks or buy a 80$ shaft and 30ish dollar blade.

I personally dont feel entry level sticks are worth the money, you could just get 2 50$ OPS nd get pretty much the same performance.

But it is all personally preference. ie i like the G-lite over/equal to the R4, only played one game with it though.

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10-27-2009, 09:14 PM
  #29
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My shot has been awesome using a Bauer 195 shaft, 102 flex but... I'm ripping through the blades like butter. They're breaking after about 3 times after using them near the shaft.

I'm using a different Bauer blade now but the blade seems whippy to me. Can a blade be whippy?

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10-27-2009, 09:19 PM
  #30
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If I were to raise my budget by $50, would that give me room to buy an even better shaft and blade or is that just being excessive?

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10-27-2009, 09:56 PM
  #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yitz View Post
If I were to raise my budget by $50, would that give me room to buy an even better shaft and blade or is that just being excessive?
I have my setup (Harrow hockey) I like for about $140.00 which is a two piece system. tapered shaft and a blade. The shaft was $100 and the blade was $40

You may want a one piece but do not shy away from a 2 piece either. You can get a fantastic shaft with a top end blade setup for $150 easy.

I would recommend taking your time and shopping around for a stick that fits you. I know people hate to do that because you have to drive around to different stores but it beats just buying what a store has available because you are there already.

It would suck to buy something and then think you should not have bought it after you already paid for it. Try out a stick in the store and then look up that same stick online for less money, sometimes you find great deals online and save lots of money.

My opinion is that some companies out there are seriously overcharging people because of their name brand on it. There is stuff out there top notch that costs less.

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10-27-2009, 10:40 PM
  #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #66 View Post
My shot has been awesome using a Bauer 195 shaft, 102 flex but... I'm ripping through the blades like butter. They're breaking after about 3 times after using them near the shaft.

I'm using a different Bauer blade now but the blade seems whippy to me. Can a blade be whippy?
I'm pretty sure your problem is caused by the blade not being in exactly right. Are you feeling any torque or vibration near the hosel? That'd be a big tip-off.

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10-27-2009, 11:01 PM
  #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yitz View Post
If I were to raise my budget by $50, would that give me room to buy an even better shaft and blade or is that just being excessive?
For 200$ you are going to get a top line OPS (online) or a top line shaft and blade.

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10-27-2009, 11:02 PM
  #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyfan68 View Post
I have my setup (Harrow hockey) I like for about $140.00 which is a two piece system. tapered shaft and a blade. The shaft was $100 and the blade was $40

You may want a one piece but do not shy away from a 2 piece either. You can get a fantastic shaft with a top end blade setup for $150 easy.

I would recommend taking your time and shopping around for a stick that fits you. I know people hate to do that because you have to drive around to different stores but it beats just buying what a store has available because you are there already.

It would suck to buy something and then think you should not have bought it after you already paid for it. Try out a stick in the store and then look up that same stick online for less money, sometimes you find great deals online and save lots of money.

My opinion is that some companies out there are seriously overcharging people because of their name brand on it. There is stuff out there top notch that costs less.
you are damn right.

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Old
10-28-2009, 12:20 AM
  #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #66 View Post
My shot has been awesome using a Bauer 195 shaft, 102 flex but... I'm ripping through the blades like butter. They're breaking after about 3 times after using them near the shaft.

I'm using a different Bauer blade now but the blade seems whippy to me. Can a blade be whippy?
This is a very VERY common problem with people who buy a stiff flex stick and then cut a lot of length off of it which increases the flex.

if you have a 102 flex before cutting it and then cut say .... maybe 6 inches off of it you just made a 130 flex stick or something like that. I'm not exactly sure but it increases quite a bit. I have an 87 flex shaft I cut about 4 inches off and made it into a 110 flex.

If your stick is too short with a flex that is too high it almost always will break where the blade hosel meets the shaft. Players should virtually NEVER break a blade at the hosel where it meets the shaft.

Your stick flex should be about half of your body weight .... this isn't a set rule but it is a good guideline to start with.

I weigh 240 and try to use the right flex but it is hard to buy a 120 flex right off the rack in most stores. You do see some like the bauer Supreme One95 stick that comes in a higher than normal flex and a few extra inches longer than their regular one95 .... made for tall big heavy guys. Gotta love a company that goes out of their way to help out the big goonsuckas like me.

I have my sticks at around 110-115 flex but I am 240lbs and 6 ft 4in so that makes sense for me and I never break sticks or blades from normal use. Maybe I have been extremely lucky but i play at least twice a week and it has been quite a few months since I have broken a blade and that broke cuzz i onetimed a knuckle wobbler puck and caught the toe of the blade in a bad way.

Anyhoo I hope this helps .... it really does sound like your flex is way too high. I would be willing to bet on it.

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10-28-2009, 04:39 AM
  #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyfan68 View Post
This is a very VERY common problem with people who buy a stiff flex stick and then cut a lot of length off of it which increases the flex.

if you have a 102 flex before cutting it and then cut say .... maybe 6 inches off of it you just made a 130 flex stick or something like that. I'm not exactly sure but it increases quite a bit. I have an 87 flex shaft I cut about 4 inches off and made it into a 110 flex.

If your stick is too short with a flex that is too high it almost always will break where the blade hosel meets the shaft. Players should virtually NEVER break a blade at the hosel where it meets the shaft.

Your stick flex should be about half of your body weight .... this isn't a set rule but it is a good guideline to start with.

I weigh 240 and try to use the right flex but it is hard to buy a 120 flex right off the rack in most stores. You do see some like the bauer Supreme One95 stick that comes in a higher than normal flex and a few extra inches longer than their regular one95 .... made for tall big heavy guys. Gotta love a company that goes out of their way to help out the big goonsuckas like me.

I have my sticks at around 110-115 flex but I am 240lbs and 6 ft 4in so that makes sense for me and I never break sticks or blades from normal use. Maybe I have been extremely lucky but i play at least twice a week and it has been quite a few months since I have broken a blade and that broke cuzz i onetimed a knuckle wobbler puck and caught the toe of the blade in a bad way.

Anyhoo I hope this helps .... it really does sound like your flex is way too high. I would be willing to bet on it.
I'm 6'3" 230. I don't take anything off of the shaft but it seems like I've gotten this problem since I've been taking more snap shots.

It might be what the guy up there said. Maybe the blade isn't being put in the right way. Everytime I buy my blade the kid at the store puts it in. The same kid that I don't trust with my skates.

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Old
10-28-2009, 06:49 AM
  #37
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Originally Posted by CanadaBacon View Post
That would jump his price from 150$ to over 400$
I payed $158 each through a guy that works at a local rink.

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10-28-2009, 01:39 PM
  #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaBacon View Post
For 200$ you are going to get a top line OPS (online) or a top line shaft and blade.
And, when it comes to top of the line shafts and blades, what would you suggest?

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10-28-2009, 01:44 PM
  #39
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It really is hard to get much better than the 8k/8k shaft/blade setup. Dolomite is nice, but you're better off seeing if you can find an old inno 1100 tapered shaft, since it's the same thing.

Haven't used an x:60 but the XXXX tapered was nice.

r8 shaft is nice but takes a little getting used to.

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10-28-2009, 02:06 PM
  #40
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I would personally say Warrior for shafts, Dolo for tapered AK27 for standard.

If i was going out and getting any shaft (which i might do), i would get the AK27.

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10-28-2009, 02:10 PM
  #41
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Since he said he takes wrist/snap shots he really should avoid standard shafts and mid-flexpoint sticks.

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10-28-2009, 02:19 PM
  #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superstar Treatment View Post
Since he said he takes wrist/snap shots he really should avoid standard shafts and mid-flexpoint sticks.
Im assuming it is for beer league purposes, for what the stick offers its not going to matter that much. Tapers dont improve your shot that dramatically. Especially if loading isnt second nature to you. (not saying it is or isnt for this guy).

I think having high quality stick with a higher threshold of durablility out ways the nil to little effect a taper is going to have on his shot.

But this works for me, it might not work for you or him. Thats why I said if I was in his position thats what I would get.

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10-29-2009, 11:15 AM
  #43
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It affects my shot greatly; I have much, much better accuracy and velocity with a low kickpoint stick, and I'm not a high level player.

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10-29-2009, 01:18 PM
  #44
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Originally Posted by Superstar Treatment View Post
I think the r8 is like 105 online.

On totalhockey.net you can get an 8k shaft and 2 fedorov curve dolomite 2 blades for 149.97 with free shipping
sick. do you know the lie of the federov blades they are selling? it doesn't say in my cart and I need a 4 lie...don't think that's standard for warrior, but I'm not sure.

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10-29-2009, 01:23 PM
  #45
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Those fedorovs are a 6 lie. In the 09 blades you can get the Fedorov and Draper blades in a 4/5/6 curve.

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10-29-2009, 01:28 PM
  #46
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yikes. thanks for the quick response. I almost ordered and I woulda been very disappointed.

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10-29-2009, 02:27 PM
  #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
It affects my shot greatly; I have much, much better accuracy and velocity with a low kickpoint stick, and I'm not a high level player.

I assume you mean quicker release, because you dont have better velocity. Sure, he may or may not notice better accuracy.

I dont know, i find the tapered/standard aspect being near the bottom of my list when chosing a stick. Lie, flex and pattern i find much much more important, and make much more of a difference.


Last edited by CanadaBacon: 10-29-2009 at 02:34 PM.
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10-29-2009, 02:43 PM
  #48
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Originally Posted by CanadaBacon View Post
I assume you mean quicker release, because you dont have better velocity. Sure, he may or may not notice better accuracy.

I dont know, i find the tapered/standard aspect being near the bottom of my list when chosing a stick. Lie, flex and pattern i find much much more important, and make much more of a difference.
No, I meant much better velocity and accuracy. I have two sticks, a Bauer XXV (low kick), and Bauer One95 (mid kick). Both are the same flex, curve, and height.

I took them both to stick and puck and took about 100 or more slapshots. I was getting some good shots with the One95, a lot of power, accuracy all over the map. Switched over to the XXV, easier to load, and accuracy was better, and when I got it dialed in the shots were just as hard.

With wrist shots, accuracy and velocity are better with the XXV. I can load it up easier, and the shots go where I want them to. With the One95, it doesn't seem to want to load with them, so it's more of a wrist snap velocity than the stick loading.

Now this is all probably technique dependent, because I find tapered sticks load up easier and therefore flex more than standard, while most people find the opposite. And I'm 95% a wrist/snap shot guy, very rare to take a slapper or one timer in game.

For me, it's:

1. Flex
2. Kickpoint
3. Curve
4. Lie

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10-29-2009, 02:53 PM
  #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
No, I meant much better velocity and accuracy. I have two sticks, a Bauer XXV (low kick), and Bauer One95 (mid kick). Both are the same flex, curve, and height.

I took them both to stick and puck and took about 100 or more slapshots. I was getting some good shots with the One95, a lot of power, accuracy all over the map. Switched over to the XXV, easier to load, and accuracy was better, and when I got it dialed in the shots were just as hard.

With wrist shots, accuracy and velocity are better with the XXV. I can load it up easier, and the shots go where I want them to. With the One95, it doesn't seem to want to load with them, so it's more of a wrist snap velocity than the stick loading.

Now this is all probably technique dependent, because I find tapered sticks load up easier and therefore flex more than standard, while most people find the opposite. And I'm 95% a wrist/snap shot guy, very rare to take a slapper or one timer in game.

For me, it's:

1. Flex
2. Kickpoint
3. Curve
4. Lie
You are using the wrong flex, low kick points are suppose to load less, hence the quicker release. If you take two equal sticks, one mid one low, there is no way you get better velocity off the low, it just doesnt work that way, the stick wont allow you too.

Now if you are using a high end low kick compared to a low end mid then yes you may get more velocity.

What you are saying contradicts the purpose of the stick and how it works.

The One95 isnt a mid kick stick

EDIT: If it works for you then whatever, thats all that matters


Last edited by CanadaBacon: 10-29-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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Old
10-29-2009, 07:14 PM
  #50
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Quote:
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Since he said he takes wrist/snap shots he really should avoid standard shafts and mid-flexpoint sticks.
Agreed.

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