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Best sticks for wrist shots

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Old
05-02-2011, 02:39 PM
  #1
debonair399
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Best sticks for wrist shots

I'm about 5'9, 150 pounds and looking for a stick that's good for wrist shots.

Please help. What brand of stick should I use? What flex, lie, curve, face, toe, and length?

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05-02-2011, 02:53 PM
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ponder
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You will likely want either a 75/77 flex senior, or maybe an intermediate in a 60-70 flex. Bauer, Easton and Warrior all make good, popular sticks, but nothing wrong with a lot of Rbk or CCM sticks either. Nobody can tell you what lie, curve, blade length, etc. you want except yourself, it is literally 100% personal preference. If you really have no idea I'd suggest picking up a composite shaft (in one of the above flexes) and a bunch of cheap wood blades in different curves, and seeing what you like. Some of the most popular curves are the Easton Sakic (re-named Hall recently)/Bauer P92 (open mid curve), the Easton Iginla/Bauer P88 (closed mid curve, but a bit more heel-ish than the P92), the Easton Zetterberg/Bauer PM9 (closed mid/heel curve), and the Easton Drury (re-named Parise recently)/Bauer P91A (open heel curve).

I'm pretty sure the Easton Sakic/Hall (P92 in Bauer, Draper in Warrior, etc.) is the most popular curve on the market, and generally seen as a good wrist/snap shot curve, but it all depends on your shot mechanics. Just because it's the most popular doesn't mean that it's necessarily the right curve for you.

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05-02-2011, 07:03 PM
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HowToHockey
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For flex get something around 75, or try an intermediate stick and see if that is better for you.I wouldn't go above 75 flex though.

For length I would say up to your chin when you are on skates.

Curve is personal preference, lie depends on how you hold your stick.

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05-02-2011, 07:17 PM
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mbeam
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I'm about the same size as you and picked up an intermediate 6K in a crosby pattern for the same reasons. It says it is a 65 flex, but really it starts out closer to 60 and turns to 65 with a few inches cut off. I probably chopped it down to a 65 and it was still far, far, far too whippy to get good power on my shot. Plus, I could feel it flex quite a bit when I received a pass or stick handled and I didn't like that one bit. It made it feel much heavier than it really was cause it was always wobbling a little.

What I found was better was buying a 75 flex senior shaft and cutting it to about a 78-80 and I felt my wrist and snap shots had more kick to them than with the 65 flex.


I'd try to steer clear of heel curves or very straight curves. I used a SWD PP26, Stastny curve and I loved it. It's quite similar to the easton sakic and rbk crosby.

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05-02-2011, 07:58 PM
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ShawnTHW
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What about kick points. Do sticks with lower kickpoints affect wrist shots better than ones with more of a mid kickpoint? I currently use a TotalOne stick but I feel that a Vapor stick would be better for me because I use wrist shots a lot more.

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05-03-2011, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PycckuuRocket10 View Post
What about kick points. Do sticks with lower kickpoints affect wrist shots better than ones with more of a mid kickpoint? I currently use a TotalOne stick but I feel that a Vapor stick would be better for me because I use wrist shots a lot more.
Low kick sticks are marketed more towards snappers, mid kicks marketed more towards slappers, but mostly it's just personal preference. And honestly sticks like the one95 and totalone are still very tapered, IMO they flex similar to a lower kick stick despite being marketed as a mid kick option. If the curve and flex on your totalone is right for you I certainly wouldn't look to replace it, one of the best and most popular sticks out there, you won't find a significant improvement to your shot with any other stick IMO (again, assuming the curve and flex are right for you).

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeam View Post
I'd try to steer clear of heel curves or very straight curves. I used a SWD PP26, Stastny curve and I loved it. It's quite similar to the easton sakic and rbk crosby.
The SWD PP26 is actually somewhat of a heel curve, the curve starts in the heel but continues throughout the blade (as opposed to the heel curves which curve at the heel but are then pretty straight through most of the blade), while on the Easton Sakic the curve really gets going mid blade, or even a touch towards the toe of mid blade. And even with those crazy heel wedges, some guys really like them for wristers, all personal preference really, although I do agree that most people prefer mid curves for wristers.

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05-03-2011, 03:24 AM
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mbeam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponder View Post
The SWD PP26 is actually somewhat of a heel curve, the curve starts in the heel but continues throughout the blade (as opposed to the heel curves which curve at the heel but are then pretty straight through most of the blade), while on the Easton Sakic the curve really gets going mid blade, or even a touch towards the toe of mid blade. And even with those crazy heel wedges, some guys really like them for wristers, all personal preference really, although I do agree that most people prefer mid curves for wristers.
My mistake then. I always thought it more of a mid curve. I was trying to refer to the bolded type of heel curves, which come to mind most frequently when I think of heel curves.

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05-03-2011, 03:43 AM
  #8
ponder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeam View Post
My mistake then. I always thought it more of a mid curve. I was trying to refer to the bolded type of heel curves, which come to mind most frequently when I think of heel curves.
Yeah, it's a fine and somewhat arbitrary line. Any curve that starts curving significantly right from the heel is generally referred to as a heel (or mid heel) curve, but really a heel wedge (like say an Easton Lidstrom/Getzlaf or Drury/Parise) is nothing like a mild mid/heel curve (like the Easton Zetterberg) or a deeper, more continuous mid/heel curve like the Sherwood PP26.

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05-03-2011, 08:06 AM
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Jarick
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It's hugely dependent on technique so it's all a complete generalization.

Instead of recommending specifics, I would generally recommend an intermediate stick at your height/build and a mild curve with a 5 lie. For us shorter guys that's a good starting point. Cut it a little long at first (a couple inches above the nose in bare feet) and if your stickhandling/passing is off, cut it a bit shorter little by little.

I wouldn't worry about the kick point of the stick right now. Eventually it might make a difference but even different players who like wrist shots like different kick points.

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05-03-2011, 02:00 PM
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AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
It's hugely dependent on technique so it's all a complete generalization.

Instead of recommending specifics, I would generally recommend an intermediate stick at your height/build and a mild curve with a 5 lie. For us shorter guys that's a good starting point. Cut it a little long at first (a couple inches above the nose in bare feet) and if your stickhandling/passing is off, cut it a bit shorter little by little.

I wouldn't worry about the kick point of the stick right now. Eventually it might make a difference but even different players who like wrist shots like different kick points.
Agreed, unless you get your technique down and start to have a good shot, you likely won't notice the differences between kickpoints.

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05-03-2011, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIREAYE View Post
Agreed, unless you get your technique down and start to have a good shot, you likely won't notice the differences between kickpoints.
Just as an example, Semin uses a TotalONE, a stick with a mid kickpoint, and I would say hes got one of the best wristers in the game.

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05-03-2011, 02:27 PM
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I'm not much bigger than you and I've had good success with a TPS Nash curve in stiff (regular didn't have enough backbone for slappers or snaps) or an Easton Zetterberg. The Nash opens up more and you can roof pucks from in close, but the Zetterberg gives more reliable passes and a better backhand IMO.

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05-03-2011, 09:29 PM
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AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeam View Post
Just as an example, Semin uses a TotalONE, a stick with a mid kickpoint, and I would say hes got one of the best wristers in the game.
Another example ^ that kickpoint shouldn't be a main concern. imo, that distinction belongs to choosing the right flex

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07-23-2011, 12:51 AM
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Sharpshooter101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tench View Post
I'm not much bigger than you and I've had good success with a TPS Nash curve in stiff (regular didn't have enough backbone for slappers or snaps) or an Easton Zetterberg. The Nash opens up more and you can roof pucks from in close, but the Zetterberg gives more reliable passes and a better backhand IMO.
I use that Sakic curve and I roof backhands on demand with that... It was odd at first since I use to play with a milder curve (precisely that Zetterberg curve), but when you get used to it, it doesn't make a big a difference. The puck placement on the blade is slightly trickier though as you have little less place to get it off properly, but it's still manageable if you're used to it.

I'm far from being big either - I weighted 172 pounds as of this very morning and I'm 5'-10''... that's pretty darn small, but I know the shot is all about the technique... never cease to amuse when you see a 200+ pounds guy feel a bit emasculated when he sees the kid aside shoots harder than him without even trying - you know it happens when they guys start sweating a bit, you know. He gives it around a little glance, here and there, to make sure no sees he's going for it... Ahahah I have too much imagination, but it seriously happens. XD

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07-23-2011, 06:38 PM
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Said it in another thread... Warrior kgb kremlin curve. You can rip them with that open face curve.

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07-23-2011, 07:03 PM
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Sakic (Hall), Backstrom, Toews, Kremlin curves are the best for wristers. I was using a Malkin curve and literally JUST switched to a Backstrom curve. Top cheese everytime. So easy to lift, and effortless too.

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07-23-2011, 07:57 PM
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Since wrist shots get a lot less loading and resultant power therefrom, the key is your technique. Exaggerate your wrist snap and follow through fully. The blade you use is a big factor. I saw a really in depth study some time ago that indicated the Drury was the best or one of the best patterns for a wrister. Basically, a longer blade with a moderate heel curve and a little loft was the best. I personally concur from experience and know of a lot of NHLers who appear to agree.

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07-23-2011, 09:00 PM
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I recommend getting a top of the line Bauer (TotalOne, X60, APX) or Easton (S19, RS). Probably between 75-85 flex. As far as curve the kane or iginla curve are the most versatile for both stickhandling and solid wrist shots.

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07-23-2011, 09:34 PM
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If I were you I'd go for a Bauer x60 stick'um grip. 77 flex Kane (p88) curve.

Absolutley unbelievable for wristers. For me anyway.

Hope that helped.

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07-23-2011, 09:50 PM
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You should try an intermediate stick, I'm almost the same height and weight as you...I just switched to one this year and it's done wonders for my wrist shot.

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07-25-2011, 09:13 AM
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Jarick
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Flipping things on their head, yesterday I took half a dozen sticks to the shooting range with me. I usually use a 75 flex intermediate P92 (actual flex ~80) but by far the hardest shots were with a 75 flex senior Drury curve cut down with a long wood plug (actual flex ~100).

I'm usually all about the whippy sticks, and the Sakic gives me the best control, but a stiffer stick with the Drury is just a ripper top shelf nearly every time.

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07-25-2011, 08:25 PM
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Last season I really loved my Backstrom curve(cut it down to around 90 flex) I'm 5'9, 141 pounds(I'M ONLY 14! But I'm bigger then most people my age) I loved it, no effort at all to shelf it, but I broke it, so I just bought another one 2 days ago.

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07-25-2011, 09:14 PM
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Need some advice here. Im usually a Bauer guy, most recently using a Kane P88 for 2 seasons, but ive outgrown the stick and i found an amazing deal on an S19 ProStock for $80. It has a drury/sakic like curve. Can anyone tell me tne difference between the Kane and this, and if it will be easy or hard to ajdust too. I just cant pass up this deal so im going to buy it. Thanks.

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07-26-2011, 09:45 AM
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Jarick
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Kane is a 5.5 lie mid curve, fairly mild with a neutral face
Drury is a 5.5 lie heel curve, basically a big flat wedge that's very open
Sakic is a 5.5 lie mid curve, like the Kane but opens way up at the middle

The Drury and Sakic play similar; you'll want to close the blade face and cup the puck then lean into shots. The Kane is very different; you typically want to play it with the blade pretty much flat on the ice (textbook technique I guess).

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07-27-2011, 09:45 AM
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AIREAYE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarick View Post
Kane is a 5.5 lie mid curve, fairly mild with a neutral face
Drury is a 5.5 lie heel curve, basically a big flat wedge that's very open
Sakic is a 5.5 lie mid curve, like the Kane but opens way up at the middle

The Drury and Sakic play similar; you'll want to close the blade face and cup the puck then lean into shots. The Kane is very different; you typically want to play it with the blade pretty much flat on the ice (textbook technique I guess).
Really? I've been using a P106 (open heel with more mid curve and less wedge) for the longest time and a P92 before that and I found that they play differently. I couldn't (and I've seen lesser skilled shooters with the same problem) easily prevent the puck from wobbling on shots or long passes. Also would you not shoot with the puck closer to the heel for the Drury and mid-blade for the Sakic as a general rule of thumb?

But then again, you've probably have had more experience than me. Did you notice any 'wobbling' so to speak?

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